- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Wiring. The illumination usually has it's own power and ground wires. You'll need a pin out for the plug. Check the power and ground at the plug. Missing( most likely), Then check the power wire to any ground or the body. If you have power, then check the ground wire to any hot fuse. If you don't get a 12 volt reading, cut the wire and run a new ground. Same for the power wire. But it is best to run the power wire back to the light switch.
find the wire that has power when the key is in the run position and off when the key is off and piggyback that wire.. Normally the radio is wired into the accessories wire so that you can listen to the radio without having power run through the coil and burning it out. That wire will have power when running and when turned to the accessories position.
Firstly you need a wiring kit, you need to run a power wire from the battery to the amlifier with a fuse no more than 18 inches from the battery. You will then need to run an rca and trigger wire from the headunit to the amplifier. You then need a short power run to ground the amp that needs to have a secure attachment to the chassis
You probably have a bad fuel pump in the front tank. There are other possibilities as well. I have replaced tank switches for this reason also. You need to check for power and ground at the front tank when the switch is in the front tank position and the ignition switch is turned on.
At the wiring connector that goes up to the tank, (on the frame rail next to the tank) the power wire is the RED wire and the ground wire is the ORANGE wire. (The other wires are for your fuel gauge.)
The fuel pump relay will supply voltage to the RED wire for only about 2 or 3 seconds (to prime the fuel rail) when the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, so you will need a helper to check this.
If there is no power, then you should suspect the switch. However, check for power at the switch to verify that it is the switch and not a broken wire between the switch and the tank connector.
If power and ground are both present at the tank connector, replace the front fuel pump.
should be a two wire connector to the fan red and black purple and black. run a wire from the power source of your choice and touch the power to the purple or red wire if the fan jumps to life you have another problem
Power for the fuel pump is supplied by fuse #16 in the Power Distribution Center (PDC), goes through the Fuel Pump Relay and then to the Fuel Pump and the ground completes the circuit. Power for the Fuel Pump Relay coil is supplied by fuse #18 in the PDC and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) supplies ground. It is a fairly simple circuit to check.
The first thing to do is check all the fuses, especially #16 and #18. If you have they are good then you will need to pull the fuel pump relay and check for power, with the key ON at the dark green/black wire and orange wire. The DG/BK wire is the power for the fuel pump and the OR wire is the power for the relay coil. If you have power there connect a jumper between the DG/BK wire and the dark green/white wire. You should hear the fuel pump running. If not there is a problem in the DG/WT wire from the relay to the pump.
Okay, lets assume that checks out fine, the next thing to do is replace the fuel pump relay and ground the dark blue wire. You should hear the fuel pump running. Okay? Good, now go to the PCM located on the firewall in the engine room. It has three large connectors, black, white and grey. There is a DB wire in cavity 19of the grey connector. Ground this wire and you should hear the fuel pump running. If it does then the wiring for the fuel pump circuit is all good and the PCM will need to be replaced. If it doesn't run, then you have a problem in the DB wire between the relay and the PCM.
Interior fuse box fuse no.33(15amp) supplies power in run/acc postion to BK/PK wire pin 19 of cluster.
Interior fuse box fuse no. 45(10 amp) supplies power in the start or run postion on the RD/YE wire pin 20 of cluster.
Interior fuse panel fuse no. 41(10amp) supplies power to the battery saver relay on LG/OG wire pin 11.
Interior fuse panel fuse no. 35(10amp) supplies power to interior lamp relay on BK/LG wire pin 12.
The last 2 are hot at all times.