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Okay I think I said that wrong I ran on board diagnostics when it was cold and got the two codes B 3832 & P 01 01 and then when I want when I drove it around again and just got the B 3832 code but the car runs the same weather cold or warm it surges I guess you could say andacts like it doesn't want to shift but if you let off the pedal in a shift but the top speed you can get up to and that's really pushing it hard is 60 65 miles per hour

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 2,963 Answers

Still say transmission shop.

Posted on Mar 28, 2015

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2005 nissan murano "s" surges and bucks when accelerating.

You need to have your engine flushed and cleaned out. One or more of your spark plugs aint firing. You need to replace them all to include the wires as well. If you dont get your engine flushed, you could blow your engine up.

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

michigan man
  • 3533 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 Ford Contour GL, 4-Liter transmission problems

check the transmission fluid level first and also when was last time you had a tranny service new fluid and filter because the screen could be plugged and not allowing the fluid to get to the torque converter also have the catalytic converter checked out

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: Car starts hard and runs rough in cold weather, undrivable

The correct spark plugs are very important. Glad to hear you got it fixed good.

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 toyota tundra has no throttle response during extreme cold

This throttle body has a TPS ( throttle position sensor) and a Accelerator pedal sensor on it. The TPS is on the drivers side and the APS is on the pass side of the throttle body. When this happened your check engine lite came on then went off when it warmed up and acted normally. The code is still in History codes. Check it with a scan tool. I foget the code number but if it come up with the APS code in History, replace that sensor....not the TPS. It is a sealed sensor that gets moisture in it when the seal deteriates and it freezes in very cold weather.

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 GMC 2500 4L80E hard shifting after warm up

1st and 2nd shift solenoids has sediment causing them to stick.or you got damage leaking seals. it might help if you put a little transmedic in transmission dont over fill. if your valve body full of sediment it causing valve in valve body to stick.this might help still might have to go in transmission.

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

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It was very cold, the car sat in the garage for 3 days with very lower fuel, now it idles rough and sounds rough, did I ruin something by not having enough fuel when cold?


No,low fuel isn't your problem. If there's enough fuel for the fuel pump to pick up your car should run okay. You haven't ruined anything. It's not your fault.

It is possible that a low fuel level - very low indeed - has allowed debris/dirt into the system and is causing a blockage. However, I think this is quite unlikely to be the problem you have.

You say the car idles rough - does it drive at speed okay? If it drives okay at speed you can rule out most fuel problems .. most.

Backtrack a bit .. has your car ever ran/idled roughly before? Cold weather can exacerbate a problem.

It could be the cold weather- fuel and injections system have cold start devices or sensors of one sort or another. It may be a faulty sensor. Get somebody to do a diagnostic check for you

Jan 25, 2016 | 2007 Buick Lucerne CXS Sedan

1 Answer

Don't have throttle body. Have injectors. They were cleaned about 2 months ago. Almost all sensors are new. Still se problem. I think fuel pressure regulator but not certain


Okay... David ,

Yes... Pressure regulator is a good GUESS.. but a FUEL test gauge is a lot cheaper... and your OBD (on board diagnostic) system has already logged information (FREE) that would tell you MUCH MUCH more

Personally I think you have been given some outstanding answers... so far.

You're tossing questions faster than beads at the Mardi-Gras.

Oxygen sensor/code reader was a really good one...

Just for openers... if you have an accelerator... your car
has a throttle body... it may be called by any number of names... but your accelerator control... moves more air through the engine in response to your "control"...

Throttle positions, temp and AIR MASS are all vital.

You need to assess exactly what YOU have been saying...

If your car INDEED has FULL POWER when it is cold... climbs hills pulls load... you are PROBABLY okay ignoring the catalytic converter... Again already suggested.

But "clean" was not the concern on the catalytic converter...
If your exhaust is restricted in any way it will keep your engine fro running... but - - it is not temperature sensitive.

Nor (i suspect) is your fuel pressure!!

What it could be (by cost)...

- a serious vacuum leak ... which should have ODB-coded.
(no cost: pour water from a cup around manifold gasket area...

- temperature sensor

- cold start valve... (in lieu of choke on fuel Injection systems)

- Or your main ECU... (fuel injection control board)

You already seem to be amassing spare parts...
(I totally agree) a spare ECU is always good to have!

Good luck!

Jan 20, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Well i had ignition module replaced new, plugs , wires, and cleared all codes and ran okay but if you kicked in really hard it would cut out like pushing a clutch in. Drove out one night drove ok and ran...


There is a fuel inertia switch..that is the law.. It is located either outside by the connections to the fuel pump or on the pump itself. I doubt that is the problem as you say the pump is pressurizing. May be a security system issue or pcm issue.. GM cars are very sensitive to voltage changes of any type...Take it back to the mechanic.

Mar 11, 2015 | 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom

3 Answers

Check engine light came on and it was very cold today, the first of the year. 2007 camry


Same as every other problem anyone has had since 1981
some 32 model years

Always start by checking for codes

You do have a check light on

Nov 25, 2012 | 2007 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

2005 jeep grand cherokee transmission control system error


Okay, wish you would of listed the code # but thats okay, the way you explained it sounds like the gear selector switch is bad, this switch is located on the side of ******, the computer and ****** think its in d3 this is cause most of the time 90% of the time to a bad selector switch also called a neutral safety switch,

replace switch reset codes and check ****** fluid , not sure how far you drove like this but if fluid is brunt i would have it flushed, not drain and fill but flushed, a BG flush.

I think with a flush and selector switch you will be all set, good day.

Aug 12, 2012 | 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

I have a 1998 Plymouth voyager and the climate control lights are flashing. I ran a test i found on the internet and got it down to two lights flashing(the ac and the recirculate). I got it to where the...


OK got your message on the other post (About the van) I am assuming that your Voyager is equipped with Automatic Climate Control. Follow the instructions below and you will get a better idea of what is wrong with your system.

Calibration/Diagnostics
1. To enter calibration/diagnostics test, set parking brake. Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature. With engine idling, turn blower switch to high. Turn mode switch to panel. Open all outlets. Move temperature to full cold.
2. Press and hold rear wash and rear wiper buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds (Until ALL LEDs illuminate). All LEDs should illuminate for 5 seconds. Rear wiper and intermittent rear wiper button LEDs will flash alternately during calibration/diagnostics test.
3. After approximately 60 seconds, if only the rear wiper button LED is flashing, calibration is successful and the system is okay. If rear wiper and intermittent rear wiper button LEDs are flashing, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present. (See "Reading Diagnostic Codes" below)
4. To exit calibration/diagnostics test at any time, press the rear window defogger button, rear wiper button, or cycle the ignition off and then on. Test will automatically terminate 15 minutes after calibration/diagnostics is entered.

Reading Diagnostic Codes
1. Perform calibration/diagnostics test. If a DTC is present after calibration/diagnostics test has been performed, system will flash rear wiper and intermittent rear wiper button LEDs in sequence. Rear wiper represents code level, and intermittent rear wiper button LED represents code value.
2. Each time the rear wash button is depressed, rear wiper button LED wil cycle to the next code level in numeric sequence. After code level 5 is reached, rear wiper button LED will cycle back to code level 1. See table below.

dttech_67.gif

May 12, 2011 | Plymouth Voyager Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

2002 express 1500 van, will not start


remove dog house locate test port and install guage should be 45-60 psi

Mar 03, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Express

1 Answer

Install new motor in 91 jeep 4.0L all new parts (water pump ,rad, hoses, plugs... ran fine going down hill started to over heat.. when to a shop and they check thermostat. seem ok replace and drove home...


You probably have an air lock. Remove a heater hose and get all the air out. Then run it with the rad cap off until it warms up. You should see the water level drop when it finally goes, or if you got the air out with the heater hose, it should be okay.

Aug 09, 2009 | 1991 Jeep Cherokee Limited

1 Answer

Check Engine Light!


Sounds like you will need to have the codes read at SAAB dealer to confirm no fautly sensors have caused this to happen.
There may still be a bad component that is triggering lamp.
MMP

Aug 10, 2008 | 1997 Saab 900

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