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I'm not getting any power to my power hood. Power is leaving the battery but not at the switch, please help.

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Posted on Mar 27, 2015


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01 Xterra dead battery. Tried jump, when I turn key alarm goes off blocks starting. Fobs wont disable/unlock. Only gets power to anti-theft. *Alarm doesnt go off opening door only turning key to start

You could try disconnecting battery, leaving overnight and then inserting ignition key and switching on before reconnecting the battery.

It has sometimes worked for me but in reality it seems you probably have an alarm immobiliser fault you need specialist help with.

Feb 13, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

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Car won't start

When you turn the key to on, not start, the warning lights and gauges on the dash should all be on. If not, it may be a problem with the ignition switch. Check the maxi fuses under the hood if the switch is not getting power to it. If it is getting power, it could be a bad switch-the electrical portion, not the key cylinder.
If the security light is on, it may be an immobilizer fault-the security has immobilized the start circuit.

Jan 23, 2014 | 2004 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

95 ford explorer battery keeps dying when it sits battery ...alternator is good got new battery 2 wks ago started fine now dying out

get a12 volt test light (autozone or any part store) . disconnect negative battery. connect light between negative terrminal of batteryand negitive cable if light lights something is useing battery power remove bulbs lighting hood and trunk until test light does not light disconect anything electrical until the test light goes out. if you disconnect alternater and it goes out replace alternator. if this was helpful please leave good feed back

Apr 13, 2013 | 1995 Ford Explorer

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Ford Ranger 2007 hoodlatch only works if the vehicle is switched on...

You can add power by plugging a socket into your lighter hole and connect that to an external battery. I used the wiring of my "car vacuum cleaner" designed to work off the lighter. Connect, switsh ignition on and pull relese. There is enough power to activate latch.

Jun 17, 2012 | Ford Ranger Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Battery went dead today charged it and when got back in the car to leave work the power stering wouldnt work...what do i do now?? i heard its electric is there a fuse for it...if so, where... didnt get a...

I have a link that explains how you may have blown a fuse while jump starting your HHR.

It states that using the junction box under the hood to jump start can blow your electronic power steering fuse. It says it is a 60 Amp fuse.

I hope this helps, if so let me know with some feedback please.

Thank you and good luck,


Mar 02, 2011 | 2006 Chevrolet HHR

2 Answers

05 jetta gls- battery keeps going dead- had alternator and battery tested-fine. with car out of ignition and radio turned off, when you open the door you can hear a pop from the speaker- like the amp...

I think you answered your own question; I highly suspect the amp.

I am an experienced audio repair tech. Your description infers you have a separate amp; it should have a heavy power, a heavy ground, and a light remote (to the amp on and off). If the power and remote are tied to battery+, then the amp will run all the time. The proper way to install and amp is with the wire to a switched source; key ignition run or assy position; or to the power antenna wire (usually blue, maybe orange or yellow?*) of the radio (best solution, runs only when the radio runs).

*I did repairs, not installs, and did not pay much attention to wire colors.

Usually red, black and yellow are power and memory power into the radio. the other color (blue?) is probably the power antenna (or 'antenna relay' lead) lead that raises a power antenna when the radio is running if connected to a motorized antenna. Other wires are in pairs by matching color and color strips schemes are the speaker leads. Often there is a wiring diagram sticker somewhere on the radio chassis. Sometimes they are embossed on the back or top as recessed characters.

I also suspect your amp has a blown channel and is drawing idle current through the speakers (bad for speakers) or the amp chassis. I don't think an amp running would drain a battery unless left sitting without driving for several days. On the other hand, a damaged amp could draw excessive current though the damaged channel(s) and drawn down the battery in short order (and possibly be cooking your speaker coil wires).

IIR amps draw about 1/2 amp or less at idle (unless VERY big) and say a battery is 66AH. A half amp would take 122hrs (more than 4 days) to fully drain the battery. I think batteries are typically ~60-100 AmpHour capacity.

I can't comment on the car alarm, don't know what their power consumption conditions are.
Start with the amp, disconnect it's power and remote wire and see if your drain problem goes away.
The 'thump' is suspicious (is it equal?, or just in certain channels [speakers])?. If it's just thumping in one channel or side, and not present approximately the same in all channels; that channel is probably bad.
You can post back for voltage test procedure to check amp if you need it.

I think you hood switch is not activating when the hood is down, check your hood height adjusters (rubber bumper knobs) on each fender or each side of radiator (ie, is your hood straight?). These screw up and down to adjust hood closure after releasing (turning) the locking springy plate thingy at the bottom, hood alarm switch also likely has a threaded height adjustment, and the hood and switch has to be right, if the switch is not bad internally (or corrode/road salt). If heights are ok, try cleaning the switch with spray switch cleaner (Menards?) (or WD-40 as last resort). If you use WD-40, you must use a spray lube or oil afterward or it will corrode again (I use silicone oil spray for lube). WD-40 is a solvent, NOT a lubricant (google it) and will wash away any oils lubricating and protecting it now.

Post back what you find.

Oct 29, 2010 | 2007 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5 Sedan

1 Answer

My key is stuck in the ignition and my car electric system will not turn off, lights on dash and lights will not go off, what can i do?

Open your hood.If you have the owner's manual,get it out.If you do not,please reply back and I will google for it.Under the hood there should be a rather large black box which may or may not be labeled power distribution box.If you can,find one of the highest rated fuses.It may be labeled battery or main power.Maybe around 80 amps or so.Pull it out.If it does not turn anything off replace it and try another.The fuses may be rather large but no matter what happens you are not likely to get shocked because it is DC power.It should take only one to turn everything off.If you have electric locks,you could leave the door open to access the hood latch in the morning or leave the hood slightly ajar so you can reach the hood lever.You would be better off leaving the door unlocked and removing all valuables and car paperwork or stick it all in the trunk.Yes the door will be open,the key is in the ignition,but what does a crook know about fuses?If they're stupid enough to steal,they probably don't.I did it with my Buick.I didn't even need the key to start my Buick because the ignition was so shot so I pulled the start fuse.Pulling your fuse,you probably will lose your radio presets,clock.Good luck! Greg

Sep 17, 2010 | 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva

1 Answer

Replaced altenator & battery wont hold a

You either have a short or a power drain. You may have a defective mercury switch in the trunk which is leaving the light on. This would drain the battery in a few hours. Also check the switch under the hood. The easy way to check this is to unscrew the bulbs & see if that solves the problem. Good luck!

May 17, 2010 | 1990 Cadillac Deville

1 Answer

My 1991 Honda Civic is not getting any power from the battery and we switched batteries and everything. When you turn the key it doesn't make any noise at all. The only thing that works right now is the...

Have you checked the fuse panel located under the hood? Hondas typically have several large amperage fuses in this fuse block that could cause the total power loss that you decribed. The hazard lights may be wired separately as a safety precaution (i.e.--not leaving you on the side of the road without hazard lights).

Feb 08, 2010 | 1991 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Headlights on my 1996 camaro just stopped coming on.

yes the swotch is a very good possibility, also cheching for a broken wire would be a good idea, usin a curent tester establish that yor switch is getting power to it. then with the switch in the on position establish that you have power leavin the switch. if you have power both to and from the switch your looking at a broken or cut wire. if you have power to the switch and not leaving the switch, you probly have a bad switch

Mar 23, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet Camaro

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