After replacing my stock rocker arms with aftermarket ones my engine won't start. It would just turn and turn. I had it going this morning for awhile and it was just fine. When replacing the rocker arms I didn't mess with anything else! Also I did do 3/4 turn on the new rockers but before with the stock ones I went 1/2 turn. This is a small block chevy built up kind of, big cam, new 1.5 roller rockers. What could be the problem?

Rocker arm, 69--327--hydraulic lifters
Engine running, loosen of rocker arm until it starts to clatter, turn rocker arm nut down slowly until clatter stops, that should be zero lash position. Then turn nut a 1/4 turn pause 10 seconds. repeat until nut has been turned the number of turns specified in chart, one complete turn according to specs.
Found this info in 1970 motors auto repair manual.

here is the truth if the lifter is gone no adjustments can be done they will have to be changed it will not do serious harm it will just go tick tick louder and louder the lifter can do this beacuse of to things ,,,its worn out or the oil pump is not pumping the oil up right ,,,,,,

In engines with rocker arm valve systems, the procedure I'm familiar with is to remove a rocker arm cover, and (one at a time!) while the engine is running, slowly back off the rocker arm retainer nut or bolt just until you hear the lifter tapping, then tighten it a quarter turn. If you can identify a lifter that is already tapping, tighten its rocker arm slowly until it stops tapping, then adjust it. Do not over-tighten! This can damage the engine.

Listen carefully to how the engine sounds; if it starts to stumble when you tighten a loose rocker arm, you've gone too far. If you cannot get the engine to run well without tapping, you may have too much wear in the valve train and may be due for a head overhaul, or you don't have adequate oil pressure in the lifters in question.
Repeat until all rocker arms are done. Replace the rocker arm cover using a new gasket, then (in a V-engine), repeat the procedure on the other side of the engine.

Wearing safety goggles, or better yet, a transparent face shield, is strongly recommended. Sometimes oil will squirt out a considerable distance from the lifter side of the rocker arm during adjustment, and the direction is not readily predictable.

the high lift cam has no compensation and so the valve retainer bottomed out causing the rocker to slip sideways and bend the push rod
you would have been better fitting a prolonged duration cam rather that a high lift for the following reasons
1 --- you can used standard rocker gear
2 ---there is no valve bounce at high rpm
3 --- smoother air flow in the inlet manifold so there is not such a stop/ start action when rpm is low
4--- less wear on cam followers and cam lobes
cam shafts are all about open duration so longer open with smaller lift is better than the same duration with a fast up and down action

Your going to need a air pressure regulator or better yet if the ECM found fault price it and replace it

1. Start the engine, and let it run for 5 minutes, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
2. Remove the cylinder head cover.
3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC).
4. Move the intake secondary rocker arm A for the No. 1 cylinder. The secondary rocker arm A should move independently of the secondary rocker arm B.
1. If the intake secondary rocker arm A moves freely, go to step 5.
2. If the intake secondary rocker arm A does not move, remove the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then check that the pistons in the secondary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.
3. Repeat step 4 on the remaining intake secondary rocker arms with each piston at TDC. When all the secondary rocker arms pass the test, go to step 6.
4. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over 400 kPa (4.0 kgf/cm2, 57 psi).
5. Inspect the valve clearance.
6. Install a 10 x 1.0 mm adapter to the inspection hole, then connect the air pressure regulator
5. With the specified air pressure applied, move the intake secondary rocker arm A for the No. 1 cylinder. The secondary rocker arm A and secondary rocker arm B should move together. If the intake secondary rocker arm A does not move, remove the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and check that the pistons in the secondary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.

cylinder head bolts 52-55 ft lbs. engine cold 59-63 ft lbs. engine hot

rocker arm shaft bolts 15-20 ft lbs.

intake manifold bolts 11-15 ft lbs.

exhaust manifold bolts 22-30 ft lbs.

valve cover bolts 79-81 in lbs.

If all parts on this motor are stock and it is not a high performance engine but a stock windsor unit, there is no actual torque standard for the rocker arm nuts since the lifters are hydraulic. The manual procedure recommends the following:
with the motor off, tighten all rocker nuts until there is no slack between the rocker arm and the tip of the valve stem. Make sure each rocker is on the heel of the cam, this proceedure can be done one cylinder at a time or you can follow the ford V-8 cylinder identification for valve clearence sequence. I like the one cylinder at a time, it's a little slower but I think it's more accurate. after all rockers are set to the above mentioned clearance, start the motor and let the oil pressure build up in the lifters. At this point you should have installed the oil deflector clips on the rockers, just above the oil squirt holes, otherwise, things get a little messy. when the oil pressure is up, tighten down on each rocker until the engine starts to miss. At this point back off enough to clear the engine idle up and move on to the next rocker. Hope this helps.

First, your engine has rocker arms, if you have a 4 cylinder you have 8 rocker arms, and if it is a 6 cylinder you have 12 rocker arms. Now if it is indeed a rocker arm making the noise, the cause is most likely a bad lifter or a worn cam shaft.

You may be able to use them,there should be enough adjustment to make them work.FordMotorsports and Crane make a pushrod that is 8.640 which is what I used with those rockers.To check fit install 1 pushrod and 1 rocker on #1 cyl turn the engine over by hand 2 revolutions and then check and make sure the rocker tip is dead center on the valve,if it is you're good to go.

well first you need to know the firing order...if it's a small block chevy the firing order is 18436572. You need to write the second four digits underneath the first four digits.

so it looks like this 1843
6572

This will let you know which rocker to adjust...turn the engine over by hand using a rachet on the crank shaft bolt by the harmonic balancer until you get both rockers for number 6 cylinder moving at the same time. Now you may adjust the clearance for both rocker for number 1 cylinder. Then crank the engine over by hand again until number 5 cylinder rockers start to move. Now you can adjust the clearance on number 8 cylinder. You will need to know the manufacturer specs for the valve clearance...continue until all rockers have been adjusted.

Note: The engine should be warm when you make the adjustment.

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