Push rod broke on clutch pedal do I have to replace entire clutch master and slave cylinders because it is pre bleed on 2004 dakota

I think there may be two different types of master cylinders -- one uses a longer push rod than the other. If possible, check that the old part is exactly like the new one. If the old part is not available, try getting a knowledgeable parts person to check several year models up and down from yours to see if a different part number exists.

try opening the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder so that you are not trying to press against the pressure plate when you push the rod into the master cylinder.

Need to know year and engine size. I know that the 1999 Dakota 2.5L clutch hydraulic system comes as a pre-charged, completely sealed system including the reservoir, master/slave cylinders and the connecting lines. There is no means of disassembly. If you use aftermarket parts, you must buy the entire aftermarket set and assemble and bleed it.

on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

you may just open the bleeder, and let it gravity bleed. make sure on the master cylinder that the piston is coming all the way back when the pedal is all the way back/up. there's an adjustment for that, on the rod connecting the clutch pedal to the master cylinder.

when bleeding system did you depress the pedal very slowly ? if not could have pushed master cylinder past the seal , worth stripping down and checking if the push rod is sealing , could also be the other part to the slave that has failed , hope this helps

You cannot bleed these clutch hydraulics. They are meant to be a pre-bled sealed unit that you buy. You should never replace just the slave or the master. Buy them both and replace them as one unit which is already bled from the factory. Otherwise you will experience what you are describing.

Make sure you install the slave cylinder (into the transmission hole) first and then the master cylinder (pedal side) next and do not hook up the pedal until everything is installed.

If you take the slave out with the pedal attached it will extend the rod and ruin the hydraulics rendering them useless.

Replace both clutch slave and master cylinders, and bleed well. I've also had this happen.

you have to replace the master and slave. if there is no bleeder, you might get lucky bench bleeding it, but the whole assy, comes from dealer pre-bled. The system is sealed and even to do a clutch or trans, you shouldnt have to take it apart. DO NOT PUSH CLUTCH WITHOUT ALL PARTS HOOKED UP! youll break it.

should be self bleeding if pedal is set correct

pedal rod needs 1/8" free play to clutch master clydinder plunger

fill clutch res slowly let bubbles bleed

then only half strokes on the clutch pedal with 30sec pause between pumps