The driver side front and rear door locks will not work with the fob or by the push button inside the door. is there a fuse or did something come disconnected somewhere?

turns fail. 2003.?
so did not check all fuses first then scan the OBD2 port next
ooops, why skip those?

lots they are what do they all do good and bad.?
well fuses are blown why skip step on, electrics, all fuses checked,
"changed flasher"<<, why say that. then not say turns and hazards fail too or not????? i have a real oem shop manual for this car. USA spec car is it>?
w cant guess countries of VIN to know it
chapter 8w wiring, is clear and easy to read.

8w-60 and 61 locks and windows. schematics and all
not the fuse for windows it runs both sides. F12 , 50amps.
do door locks fail using key fob??????????? any?
F12 also runs door locks but is not bad. only for 1 door.

right door inside lock controls dead?too?
you have a fob
and lots of door controls switches, it is clear which fail and do not
front and rear, both.

the door control modules on this car use COMM buse
called PCI serial bus this car
so commands from any in car button or fob must work and send commands to t the door commanded, via PCI bus.
same goes for windows ,door control modules

bad comms
or the origination command device fails, the FOB or the door buttons afail
all doors have controls do only right side fail and fob too?

try testing at all doors first
and the fob too.
off hand seems PCI bus wires damaged on the right side.

bought it like this.
so fob buttons work, but not hatch.
but lock inside locks fail (elect. buttons)
driver and shotguns side both fail, lock sw?
ext, mirrors dead.
door looks in the service manual has 5 pages of schematics, is well advised to read that first
not scanning the PCM/BCM first is never good.
oK if the speed sensor on the car fails, doors will act up. (for sure if it see car moving and is not)
the radio receiver (fob) works mostly
Fuse MIR /LKS must not be blown door buttons fail
why not check all fuses, save work and not need books to fix it if a fuse blew.?(underhood box)
IP fuse PWR/LKS not blown
the BCM runs the 3 Door lock relays
possibles
Fuse MIR /LKS blown 3amps
this kill local door power to LF and RF door swithes dead. and Rear glass to. the relay board does not fail with fobs. is the key fact.
your post is not clear on all for doors.
or LF an RF door switches. but assumed both are dead, me.
so it is just blown fuse.
we always check fuse first. a 20 cent part.

Found this wiring diagram for lift gate, if that is what we're talking about? Not only check the fuses, check fuse circuit for voltage. Use a testlite.

The servo motor in the door lock may have failed, broke, or disconnected. An Authorized Chevy Dealer should be able to check it.

There is a relay in the rear fuse block for the trunk release. marked trunk relay #36. It is marked on the under side of the lid. If you knew how they worked you could open it by jumping pin 30 to pin 87 in fuse box. on the side of the relay is a diagram of what pins are what . This system uses an electronic control module called ( the BCM ) body control module .When you push the inside release button , that sends a signal to the BCM ,then the BCM activates the relay opening the trunk . Well that won't help ,you won't believe where the fuse box is ! Fuse Block - Rear
In the rear compartment, behind the left wheel well. You could jump the wire at the BCM that goes to the relay. Can't you pull down one of the rear seats to gain access ?

Doesn't use a fuse , ues a circuit breaker . These very rarely go bad .The right rear door works ? Uses same circuit breaker as front passenger door. The power windows an locks on your vehicle are controlled by electronic control modules . FPDM - front passenger door module , I would look for a broken orange wire inside the flex boot from the body to the front right passenger door . This is power supply to the passenger door module . Do you know what wiring diagrams are ? Free here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb

I had the same problem with now power to windows, mirrors and seat. The common soulution is the orange and or black wire in the boot have broken between the door and post.

No easy way to do this - you need to remove the inside door panel from inside the truck and manually release the lock. You didn't say where the wiring was burnt, but when the door is open test for power at the lock solenoid - if not there when unlock is pressed, inspect the wiring (particularly at the two rubber wire casings connecting the door to the frame). If it is there, the lock solenoid is stuck and may have to be replaced.

The driver's side door lock button is designed not to lock from the inside unless the handle is pulled, or the power switch is used. This serves as a reminder to not lock your keys inside.

If you are inside, and push down on the button (not the switch) hard enough to lock it, you've probably damaged it.

make sure than you have not split any fluids on the passenger front door most of the times is where the module to control the windows and doors is located, try by unpluging the batterie and the after a minute plug it back and see what happend but if any of your ft doors have been split with liquid or rain has gone inside then most likelly the module got moisture and not working