What can look for

redux 1: kick is click.
yes heat can cause any electrics to fail sure can.

the alternator, is what glows that battery lamp, (bat /gen/alt/charger)
or is dead alternator or intermittent or fails hot.
or a bad battery , or intermittent. and sure heat failing.
that is 3 possible things,
battery fails load tests
when running battery does not show 13. to 15vdc , so alt is bad or
fuses for alt are bad.
great post,. very rare this kind of failure. hot. I'm sure it will get worsE as they love to do. the fuse can not fail hot, unless rusty. or has ,micro cracks on it.
BEST IS CHECK ALL FUSES FIRST.



what happens on A dead starter ,? but all you get is one tiny click){no kick)\?
that CLICK is the starter relay working. (doing its job)<< a good sign and FACT.

the battery is dead, now, or rust/loose, battery cables or lugs.
what we do is ( I will assume Alternator is dead)_
charge the battery and or have it load tested for good/ bad.?
or use jumper cables to crank the dead starter, (not backwards jumped EVER)
now the stater motor can crank the engine now and it starts
but if the "battery light on the dashboard" glows engine running the that alternator is dead and with that thje battery goes dead again (repeats)

alternators can fail many ways, (on running engine and test to find it)
1: ALT is dead (or weak or inermittant or fails hot )
2; 3 ALT FUSES , 1 OF THEM BLOW OUT. 50AMP TO 100 AMP. YES. OR IT'S FUSIBLE LINK,
3: LOOSE FAN BELT TO IT OR MISSING.
4: learn that bad battery can make the alternator seem bad but the ALT is okay.

on newer cars the ALT is smarter and it goes off line if it (thinks?) the battery might explode.
shorted cell batteries
or battery dead open circuit (inside it)
the ALT does not want to go over voltage and to prevent that it may just go off line, to not damage car. electronics.

tests,
CHECK ALL FUSES
load test the battery, most shops or autostore's do this for free, (a test)
borrow and good battery from other good car
jumper cable start car, (as AAA AUTO CLUB tow trucks do endlessly)
HOT WIRE THE STARTER soleniod, TO PROVE STARTER IS GOOD/BAD (BATTERY KNOWN GOOD FIRST.

Batt probly not chargn cause main wire in back of alt is wornout. Alternator tho sounds bad..it will drain a battery quik.Disconnect batt ovenite to confirm

No, cars do not have alternator relays. You say it doesn't charge but checks tested ok, and obviously that can't be true. Test it again. You put a voltmeter across the 2 batter terminals. With engine off, you should get 12.5 volts. While cranking, it should drop to 10 volts. When running, it should be over 14 volts. Cold or hot should make no difference at all, unless the belt slips or something? Why do you think it does not charge when cold? You have not told us everything.

ran cheery, the exhaust ran red hot? LOL.
the engine runs off the alternator not the battery.
so , if the alt is bad,the battery will discharge.
the alt charge lamp glows, did it?

old post,
bad alt, or battery is no good.
try a known good battery , and make sure the
voltage across the battery is 13.3v to 15vdc running.
if not the ALT System is bad, notice I said system.

btw , replaced means nothing to me.
new , used, rebuilt, recycled, , what?

Hi, the wire to the computer is inconsequential to the operation of the charging system. Have you replaced the regulator?

at the alternantor you should have a small hot wire from ignition call the alternator energize wire, this wire has to be hot to tell the alternator to charge. run a hot wire to alt and check charging.

If it is alternator bearing failure you will hear a very high pitched whine from the alternator as it is revved, furthermore it would not usually cause loss of charging until it was nearly wrecked.
It is more likely to be belt failure. Replace and correctly tension the belt first.
I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions.
I appreciate your vote if you appreciate my reply.

1) check 10A fuse in the batt. juction box (eng. comp.) hot at all times.
2) check the large red battery wire to the alt. for good conn.
3) make sure the alt. is grounded properly
4) gray wire sent from the alt. to the PCM
5) blue wire sent from the PCM to the regulator (alt.)
6) small red wire power frorm the 10A fuse
if all checks out and still not charge replace the alt.

this does sound like a bad alternator,have the battery tested and check the connection at battery and positive feed cables form battery,next time all the lights come on have the charging system check dont remove alternator,also make sure the power cable to alternator is good,ive had a few of these they get hot and dont charge, have them tested and they tell me its good, put it back on car and customer is back again,i replace the alt and problem solved. hope this helps.ps check the alt fuse.

You need to upgrade,to a 2000 amp or 2500 amp alternator to alimitate the over heating problem you are having.