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Anonymous Posted on Feb 02, 2015

There is a vacuum line off the intake plenum that goes to a check valve and a return fuel line off the fuel regulator to another check valve. Both connect through a "T" and go to the EVAP can by the f

There is a vacuum line off the intake plenum that goes to a check valve and a return fuel line off the fuel regulator to another check valve. Both connect through a "T" and go to the EVAP can by the fuel tank. Problem is fuel is going into intake and flooding engine. Is it a bad check valve only or is there more???

1 Answer

Timmy L Costa

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  • Expert 142 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 02, 2015
Timmy L Costa
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Joined: Sep 23, 2009
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If you are getting Fuel in the vacuum line, it sounds like you could have a bad fuel pressure regulator. Check the line that comes off the Fuel pressure regulator. use a hand vacuum pump see if fuel is being pulled out of the regulator.Replace regulator if you find fuel
coming from that vacuum port.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 321 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 04, 2008

SOURCE: 99 olds alero 2.4

I'm sure you have installed a fuel pressure gauge and monitored the fuel pressure while the problem is occurring?Another diagnostic tool which is easy to do,is while the problem is occurring,unplug one sensor at a time beginning with the Mass Air Flow first,.if it uses one.Many times,not always,depending on the sensor,if the sensor is taken out of the picture as far as what the PCM is seeing,like unplugging the MAF,the PCM will substitute the missing sensor output with a generic value that will allow the engine to at least run,and if unplugging for example the MAF,the engine idle speed returns to normal,you know you're onto the problem.You didn't mention if the engine ran ok other than the idle problem.As far as checking for vacuum leaks,i use something like brake cleaner or WD 40,more of a liquid,and it does sound like a vacuum leak.Plastic intake manifolds do develop nearly invisible cracks that open up more with heat.Revsisit the possibility.And as for the PCM,it is possible,but more likely a mechanical problem.Lastly,remove an O2 sensor or two before the catalytic convertor,run the engine and see if anything changes.Cheap way to verify the catalytic convertor is flowing and not restricting engine airflow,as i have seen bad cats cause misfire codes and strange problems.Good luck.

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Anonymous

  • 125 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 26, 2009

SOURCE: olds alero 2.4 idle fuel pressure

most likely idle air control sensor or low engine coolant I know sounds funny but IAC uses coolant to regulate idle. Idle air control valve or throttle body positioning sensor.

Anonymous

  • 92 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 23, 2009

SOURCE: fuel pressure regulator had no vacuum line connected

another engineers wet dream. think of it this way . what is normally in the intake when the engine is running.. answer vacume, hence the regulator gets its vacume without a hose connected to it as its already in a full time vacume chamber.no hose required . ps be carefull to seat the regulator and o rings securely into the housing befor you reattach the secureing metal clip.
good luck chris

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on May 28, 2009

SOURCE: Fuel smell near the fuel tank

You may have an overloaded carbon cannister, the carbon cannister stores fuel vapors and is part of the evaporative emission control system, I will be willing to bet if you change it the smell will stop.

Anonymous

  • 344 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 15, 2009

SOURCE: 95 2.5 jeep wrangler stalls consistantly and will

I had the same issue with my 4.0, I went through all the same BS you did and in the end it was a faulty fuel pump. Pricy i know but im sure thats your problem

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On a 2000 jaguar s-type 4.0 v8 intake manafold there is a vacuum line that comes out and goes down the left side then splits into 2 vacuum lines 1 about 1ft the other about 3ft what is this called

one goes to FPR regulator. and other to evap
then both go to the full hard vacuum port on rear of TB or on intake manifold plenum (pre intake runners) there. (oops seen nipplee empty.
on all cars made. in fact.(vac FPR)
FPR dead like that causes , huge fuel pressure at idle.
and burns tons of fuel ,stalls and or floods he engine
and melts the CAT (***** of cat and worse)
never ever fun any Vacuum FPR , with no vacuum hose
pure rotten bad.
tip

FPR - Fuel Pressure Regulator

<p><b><span>2.1) <span> </span><u>FPR - Fuel Pressure Regulator </u>(actuator/passive)<u></u></span></b><br /> <p><b><u><span><span> </span></span></u></b><br /> <p><b><span>What is it?</span></b><span><span> </span>The fuel pressure regulator is a mechanical device that maintains a well regulated level of pressure in the fuel rail to the fuel injectors. <span> </span></span><br /> <p><span> </span><br /> <p><b><span>Where is it located?</span></b><span><span> </span>The FPR is a metal circular device most usually located on the end of the fuel rail on the engine. Attached to its top is a vacuum line from the intake plenum. </span><br /> <p><span> </span><br /> <p><b><span>How does it work?</span></b><span> The fuel pump(s) supply fuel at high pressure to the fuel rail. Excess fuel pressure, above that required for satisfactory injector operation, is released by the FPR by allowing fuel to return to the tank via the fuel return pipe.<span> </span>The FPR consists of a diaphragm valve held closed by the constant force exerted by a spring.<span> </span>Once the pressure of the fuel in the fuel rail exceeds the force of the spring on the valve then fuel bleeds past into the return pipe.<span> </span>The action of the spring is opposed by the effect of a vacuum line (from the intake manifold) acting on the diaphragm.<span> </span><b><i>When the car is at idle the high vacuum conveyed in the line from the inlet manifold to the FPR ensures that only a modest pressure of fuel is allowed in the fuel rail to the injectors.<span> </span>As the engine speed increases there is reduction in vacuum, the spring action is less impeded and the fuel pressure increases.<span> </span>By governing the period of each injection cycle at a given fuel pressure the ECU is able to maintain appropriate and economical use of fuel in response to engine demand</i></b>.</span><br /> <p><b><u><span><span> </span></span></u></b><br /> <p><b><u><span>Symptoms of faulty FPR </span></u></b><br /> <p><b><u><span><span> </span></span></u></b><br /> <p><span>A faulty FPR has many similar effects to that of a faulty MAF namely:-</span><br /> <p><span> </span><br /> <ul> <li><b><span>Rough running</span></b><span> - if the diaphragm is inoperative or the vacuum line has a minor leak the fuel pressure in the fuel rail will be increased.<span> </span>The amount of fuel injected per cycle will be poorly regulated and this will make the engine 'lumpy' due to too rich mix.<span> </span>If the vacuum line to the FPR has a major leak or has become disconnected then the introduction of unmetered air into the inlet plenum will cause bad idling due to too lean mix.</span></li> <li><b><span>Difficulty in starting</span></b><span> - there are two effects here: </span></li> <ul> <li><span>1) If, as above, the effect of the vacuum line to the FPR has a small leak then the engine will run rich to the extent that excess fuel may flood the engine.<span> </span></span></li> <li><span>2) Fuel may exit a faulty FPR diaphragm via the vacuum line and enter the intake manifold again either flooding the engine or making it too rich to ignite.<span> </span>In this circumstance the opening of the throttle fully by pressing hard on the accelerator pedal may result in the engine firing as more air is introduced creating a better mixture ratio. </span></li> </ul> <li><b><span>Poor fuel economy - </span></b><span>Rich mixture due to a faulty FPR allowing high pressures in the fuel line will cause excessively high fuel consumption<b></b></span></li> </ul> <p><span><span> </span></span><br /> <p><b><span>How to check?</span></b><span><span> </span>When the engine is at idle, disconnecting the vacuum line to a healthy FPR should result in a temporary surge in engine revs for a few seconds as the immediate loss of vacuum to the FPR causes an immediate build up in fuel pressure. At each injection cycle a little more is injected causing the engine to build up revs.<span> </span>In the next few seconds the gradual ingress of unmetered air into the plenum, also caused by the disconnected vacuum tube, begins to upset the stable idle of the engine. <span> </span>The engine will suffer from rough idle until the vacuum line is reconnected. <span> </span>Most of the injection inputs will be crudely governed by signals received from the MAP sensor and feedback from the oxygen sensor. </span><br /> <p><span> </span><br /> <p><span>A technical check in FPR function is to connect a fuel pressure tester to the fuel rail.<span> </span>There is usually a threaded connection port on the fuel rail consisting of a Schrader type valve; more commonly seen on car tyres.<span> </span>Testing the fuel pressure not only shows whether or not the fuel pressure regulator is capable of maintaining a consistent pressure but it also checks the fuel pumps' capability of providing the necessary pressure. <span> </span>Pressure in the rail should be highest when the throttle is open and lowest at idle.<span> </span>Pressing the pin in the middle of the Schrader valve is a quick way of depressurizing the fuel rail, akin to letting the air out of a tyre. </span><br /> <p><span> </span><br /> <p><b><span>How to Fix?</span></b><span><span> </span>Check for the presence of fuel from the open end of the disconnected vacuum line to help ascertain the health of the FPR diaphragm.<span> </span>If the FPR is faulty it is simple and cheap to replace it.</span><br /> <p><span><br /></span><br /> <p><span><b>NEXT 2.2) ECT - Engine Coolant temperature sensor </b></span><br />
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1answer

Starter needs to be replaced. Need instruction procedure for a do it yourselfer.

Hi, I have pasted the procedure from autozone.com below. Because this requires removal of the intake manifold, please be as sure as possible that your starter needs replacement. If you have any doubt, please let me know what your symptoms are and what troubleshooting you have done that led you to believe your starter is bad. Also, if you have any questions about the procedure below, please let me know. Thanks for using FixYa.


Removal & Installation


Disconnect the Negative battery cable


Relieve the fuel system pressure (you can do this by placing a rag over the schrader valve on the fuel rail and pressing in the valve stem--just be careful not to spray fuel on your eyes).


Drain the cooling system.


Remove or disconnect the following:


  • Intake manifold heat shield
  • Sight shield
  • Coil module connectors from the coil modules located on the valve covers
  • Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and valve from the valve cover
  • Fuel regulator vacuum tube
  • Vacuum tubes from the AIR solenoid
  • Fuel inlet and return lines
  • Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket
  • 2 pushnuts attaching the engine coolant heater wire and set it aside, if equipped
  • Fuel injector electrical connections
  • Fuel rail and injectors
  • Plenum duct clamp at the rear of the intake manifold, loosen
  • Intake manifold bolts and the manifold
Clean the manifold mating surfaces.


Remove or disconnect the following:
Starter electrical connectors Starter motor

jturcotte_1382.gif


Fig. View of starter motor removal and wires



To install:

Install or connect the following:

  • -S- terminal wire. Torque the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
  • Starter electrical connectors. Torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  • Starter motor
  • Mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).


jturcotte_1383.gif


Fig. Intake manifold torque sequence- 4.6L engines

  1. Grease the inside edge of the rubber plenum duct.
  2. Position the intake manifold by performing the following sub-steps:
    1. Place the rear of the intake manifold into the plenum duct.
    2. Place the front of the intake manifold downward on to the cylinder heads.

  3. Install the intake manifold bolts and torque to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) in the sequence illustrated. DO NOT torque the intake manifold bolts when the engine is HOT or at operating temperature.
  4. Make sure the plenum duct is fully attached to the rear of the intake manifold and tighten the plenum duct clamp to 20 inch lbs. (2.25 Nm).
  5. Install or connect the following:

    Fuel rail and injectors and tighten the rail retainers to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) Fuel injector electrical connections Alternator coolant pipe/surge tank pipe and position onto the fuel rail studs Engine coolant heater wire onto the studs and install the pushnuts, if equipped Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) Fuel inlet and return lines Vacuum tubes to the AIR solenoid Fuel regulator vacuum tube Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose to the valve cover Coil module connectors to the coil modules located on the valve covers Sight shield Intake manifold heat shield Negative battery cable
  6. Fill and bleed the cooling system.
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Have trouble code 45 on a 1993 s10 blazer 4.3l. Have replaced oxygen sensor, did not help

1994 Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4.3L, Vin W Customer Concern: DTC 45 The spark plugs are black on both banks. Right bank plugs are damp. Removed the tuning valve and looked inside the plenum. Can see a washed/clean area on the right side. Fuel pressure is good, it holds when the pump stops. Tests/Procedures: 1. Remove the upper intake plenum cover and inspect for a fuel leak at the fuel pressure regulator.

2. Inspect the fuel pressure regulator and return lines and fittings at the left side of the plenum.

3 Replace the Central Multipoint Fuel Injection (CMFI) unit. Potential Causes: Leaking Fuel Line - One or more may have a problem.
Leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator
Tech Tips: The fuel pressure regulator may only leak at a cold or hot engine, only with vacuum applied, or only without vacuum applied. The leaking at the fuel lines and fittings have as often been the result of repairs as the initial cause of the problem. Handle the lines and fittings carefully. The fuel pressure regulator is a integral part of the Central Multi-port Fuel Injection (CMFI) unit. Any failure requires entire unit replacement.
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Intakegasket for grandam gt

Exactly what is the wrong? Need the part? Need to know torque adjust or porcedure to take off?

For
1994 Pontiac Grand Am 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl check this procedure for Intake Manifold...
(see Figure 14)
The 3.1L engine is equipped with upper and lower intake manifolds. The upper intake manifold is also known as the intake manifold plenum.

CAUTION The fuel system is under pressure and must be properly relieved before disconnecting the fuel lines. Failure to properly relieve the fuel system pressure can lead to personal injury and component damage.
  1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Remove top half of the air cleaner assembly and throttle body duct.
  4. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
  5. Disconnect the EGR pipe from exhaust manifold.
  6. Remove the serpentine belt.
  7. Remove the brake vacuum pipe at the intake plenum.
  8. Disconnect the control cables from the throttle body and intake plenum mounting bracket.
  9. Remove the power steering lines at the alternator bracket.
  10. Remove the alternator.
  11. Label and disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs and wire retainers on the intake plenum.
  12. Remove the ignition assembly and the EVAP canister purge solenoid together.
zjlimited_601.jpg

Fig. 14: View of the intake manifold and related components

  1. Disconnect the upper engine wiring harness connectors at the following components:
    Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Idle Air Control (IAC) Fuel Injectors Coolant temperature sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
  2. Tag and disconnect the vacuum lines from the following components:
    Vacuum modulator Fuel pressure regulator PCV valve
  3. Disconnect the MAP sensor from upper intake manifold.
  4. Remove the upper intake plenum mounting bolts and lift off the plenum.
  5. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail and bracket.
  6. Install engine support fixture special tool J 28467-A or an equivalent.
  7. Remove the right side engine mount.
  8. Remove the power steering mounting bolts and support the pump out of the way without disconnecting the power steering lines.
  9. Disconnect the coolant inlet pipe from the outlet housing.
  10. Remove the coolant bypass hose from the water pump and the cylinder head.
  11. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at thermostat housing.
  12. Remove the thermostat housing.
  13. Remove both rocker arm covers.
  14. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts. Make sure the washers on the four center bolts are installed in their original locations.
When removing the valve train components they should be kept in order for installation the original locations.
  1. Remove the rocker arm retaining nuts or bolts and extract the rocker arms and pushrods.
  2. Remove the intake manifold from the engine. Remove and discard the gasket.
  3. Using a suitable scraper, clean gasket material from all mating surfaces. Remove all excess RTV sealant from front and rear ridges of cylinder block
To install:
  1. Place a 0.12 inch (3mm) bead of RTV, on each ridge, where the front and rear of the intake manifold contact the block.
  2. Using a new gasket, place the intake manifold on the engine.
  3. Install the pushrods in their original locations. Coat the pushrods with prelube.
The intake pushrods are marked yellow (5 3 /4 inch long) and the exhaust are green (6 inches long). Make sure the pushrods are properly seated in the valve lifters and rocker arms.
  1. Position the rocker arms in there original locations and tighten to specifications. Refer to the procedure earlier in this section.
  2. Install lower the intake manifold attaching bolts. Apply sealant 12345739 (or equivalent thread locking compound) to the threads of bolts. Tighten the vertical bolts first then the diagonal bolts to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
  3. Install the front rocker arm cover.
  4. Install the thermostat housing.
  5. Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing.
  6. Fasten the coolant inlet pipe to thermostat housing.
  7. Connect coolant bypass pipe at the water pump and cylinder head.
  8. Install the power steering pump in the mounting bracket.
  9. Loosely install the serpentine belt.
  10. Connect the right side engine mount.
  11. Remove the special engine support tool.
  12. Fasten the fuel lines to fuel rail and bracket.
  13. Install the upper intake manifold and tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  14. Install the MAP sensor.
  15. Connect the upper engine wiring harness connectors to the related components removed earlier.
  16. Connect the vacuum lines to the PCV, vacuum modulator and fuel pressure regulator.
  17. Install the EVAP canister purge solenoid and ignition assembly.
  18. Install the alternator assembly.
  19. Connect the power steering line to the alternator bracket.
  20. Install the serpentine belt.
  21. Connect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs and intake plenum wire retainer.
  22. Install the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold.
  23. Attach the control cables to the throttle body lever and upper intake plenum mounting bracket.
  24. Install air intake assembly and top half of the air cleaner assembly.
  25. Install the brake vacuum pipe.
  26. Fill the cooling system.
  27. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the vehicle and verify that there are no leaks.

For PARTS REPLACEMENT check in THIS LINK: carpartswholesale.com

Hope helps.
5helpful
4answers

My starter gave out yesterday. I didnt know it was inside the intake manifold. Either way i started the job last night, i am having a hard time pulling out the manifold. I already loosened the clamp but i...

Hi!!
These are the steps to follow to remove the Starter Motor and the Intake Manifold. If you follow them you'll have no problems when the job is done. Pay special attention to the pre-installation steps for the Intake Manifold.

To Replace the Starter, Remove or disconnect the following:
  1. Negative battery cable
  2. Intake manifold
  3. Starter electrical connectors
  4. Starter motor
View of starter motor removal and wires
1kbron_11.jpg

To install, Install or connect the following:
  1. -S- terminal wire. Torque the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
  2. Starter electrical connectors. Torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  3. Starter motor
  4. Mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  5. Intake manifold
  6. Negative battery cable

INTAKE MANIFOLD
PRIOR TO REMOVAL:
  • Relieve the fuel system pressure
  • Drain the cooling system.

Remove or disconnect the following:
  1. Negative battery cable
  2. Intake manifold heat shield
  3. Sight shield
  4. Coil module connectors from the coil modules located on the valve covers
  5. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and valve from the valve cover
  6. Fuel regulator vacuum tube
  7. Vacuum tubes from the AIR solenoid
  8. Fuel inlet and return lines
  9. Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket
  10. 2 pushnuts attaching the engine coolant heater wire and set it aside, if equipped
  11. Fuel injector electrical connections
  12. Fuel rail and injectors
  13. Plenum duct clamp at the rear of the intake manifold, loosen Intake manifold bolts and the manifold
  14. Clean the manifold mating surfaces.
Intake manifold torque sequence- 4.6L engines

1kbron_12.jpg


PRIOR TO INSTALL:
  • Grease the inside edge of the rubber plenum duct.
  • Position the intake manifold by performing the following sub-steps:
  • Place the rear of the intake manifold into the plenum duct.
  • Place the front of the intake manifold downward on to the cylinder heads.
  • Install the intake manifold bolts and torque to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) in the sequence illustrated. DO NOT torque the intake manifold bolts when the engine is HOT or at operating temperature.
  • Make sure the plenum duct is fully attached to the rear of the intake manifold and tighten the plenum duct clamp to 20 inch lbs. (2.25 Nm).

Install or connect the following:
  1. Fuel rail and injectors and tighten the rail retainers to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
  2. Fuel injector electrical connections
  3. Alternator coolant pipe/surge tank pipe and position onto the fuel rail studs
  4. Engine coolant heater wire onto the studs and install the pushnuts, if equipped
  5. Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
  6. Fuel inlet and return lines
  7. Vacuum tubes to the AIR solenoid
  8. Fuel regulator vacuum tube
  9. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose to the valve cover
  10. Coil module connectors to the coil modules located on the valve covers
  11. Sight shield
  12. Intake manifold heat shield
  13. Negative battery cable
  14. Fill and bleed the cooling system.
Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.
1helpful
2answers

Where is the fuel pressure regulator located on a 96 chevy tahoe?

The fuel pressure regulator for this vehicle is located inside of the air intake plenum, you must remove the plenum to gain access to it.I hope I could help, rate me accordingly, Thanks!!
3helpful
2answers

When you turn the key on excessive fuel flows into the air intake. its a 1989 6 cylinder 3.1 fuel injected

You could have either an injector that is stuck open or a fuel pressure regulator that has developed a leak. A leaky injector will usually only leak fuel into one cylinder as it is located just above the intake valve in the lower part of the intake while a leaky fuel pressure regulator will leak fuel into the front end of the intake manifold [behind the throttle plates] and the fuel will acuumulate throughout the upper intake plenum. When a fuel pressure regulator develops a leak the fuel that is escaping from it flows through the small 1/8" diameter plastic vacuum line which goes from the top of the regulator to the intake manifold. Even a trace of fuel in this line means the regulator is bad. I've seen both leak items leak but probably replace 10 regulators leak for every one injector. Good luck, hope you find your problem!
2helpful
1answer

Need to replace intake manifold how do you do this

Bonneville, LeSabre, Park Avenue 2000-2005 Intake Manifold - Removal & Installation

3.8L Engine
VIN 1 Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Negative battery cable Supercharger Thermostat housing Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube at the intake manifold Engine Control Temperature (ECT) sensor Intake manifold
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    Intake manifold with new gaskets. Torque the bolts, working from the center out, to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). ECT sensor connector EGR tube to the intake manifold Thermostat housing Supercharger Negative battery cable
  2. Refill and bleed the cooling system.
  3. Run the engine and check for leaks and proper engine operation.

VIN K Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:
    Fuel injector sight shield Air inlet duct Spark plug wires from the right side Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor Vacuum lines from the intake manifold Fuel lines Fuel injector electrical connectors Fuel regulator vacuum line Fuel rail from the intake manifold Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) heat shield Throttle cable bracket from the cylinder head mounting bracket and the throttle body cables Throttle body support bracket Upper intake plenum and gasket Thermostat housing Electrical connector from the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor Drive belt tensioner assembly EGR valve outlet pipe Lower intake manifold

    a5adffa.jpg
    Fig. Exploded view of the intake manifold and related components-3.8L (VIN K) engine
To install:


140d431.jpg
Fig. Upper intake manifold torque sequence-3.8L (VIN K) engine


4950e4f.jpg
Fig. Lower intake manifold torque sequence-3.8L (VIN K) engine
  1. Install or connect the following:
    Intake manifold using new manifold gaskets. Torque the bolts in sequence to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm); then, re-torque to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). EGR valve outlet pipe Drive belt tensioner assembly. Torque the tensioner bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Electrical connector to the ECT sensor Thermostat housing Upper intake plenum. Torque the intake plenum bolts to 88 inch. lbs. (10 Nm). Throttle body support bracket Throttle cable bracket to the cylinder head mounting bracket and the cables to the throttle body lever EGR heat shield Fuel rail. Torque the fuel rail bolts to 88 inch. lbs. (10 Nm). Fuel lines Fuel regulator vacuum line Fuel injector electrical connectors Vacuum lines to the intake manifold MAP sensor Spark plug wires Fuel injector sight shield and air inlet duct Negative battery cable
  2. Refill and bleed the cooling system.
  3. Run the engine and check for leaks and proper engine operation.

Hope this help (remember rated this).
1helpful
1answer

Where i have to conect the vacuum line for the fuel pressure valve on a 300e thanks

It needs to be connected to a port on the intake plenum that has full vacuum at idle.That port should be close to the regulator.
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