My volvo 2.0L diesel..wont start..once start no engine rev..I check and unplug one at time the injector no 1 and no4 has no response...do I need to reset computer?what is the probable cause

SOURCE: diesel engine wont start will

i had this problem and again it was narrowed down to the immobiliser. however it wasnt exactly the immobiliser it was the immobiliser coil. it sits around the key slot and it is the radio part that check the chip inside the key. got mine replaced and it starts first time every time now. it cost £35 to replace.

Romel Edmondson

• 68 Answers
• Posted on Jan 08, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 grand cherokee laredo 3.1 diesel would not start

Before removal of the fuel injection pump, I am assuming that u checked to see which fuel line was for which cylinder on the fuel injection pump. Well if this was done, place ur #1 cylinder on compression and at the sametime spill time ur fuel injection pump so that #1 will be the next outlet to dis-charge fuel. After this is done, insert the fuel injectrion pump, and ur job is now complete. IF ur front cover is off, there are usually markings on the gear of the fuel injection pump in order for the markings to be alligned

SOURCE: 2002 maxima check engine light came on

First thing I would do is make sure you battery cables have a flawless connection. I had a Honda with a similar problem. I changed the battery cable and it all went away. Like magic. Sometimes these can be a simple fix.

SOURCE: check engine codes

1-2-3* Signal missing to/from coolant temp. sensor Wiring fault to or in ECT sensor;grounds corroded on intake manifold or engine Difficult to start engine when cold Same Same

SOURCE: 97 F350 diesel check engine light stays on and is running rough?

Ok, lets take this from the top. I have a 97 f250 diesel. In mid may mine did the same thing. It's either one of two things. You have under valve cover harnesses (uvc). They slide in under your valve covers, you will see two wiring harnesses on the outside of the valve cover gaskets on either side of the block. Ok, it IS possible one of these slipped out of place and killed two of your injectors, causing the horrible running/ low idle/no power/ sounds like the truck is going to stall symptoms. The easiest way to check that is to unplug the wires while the truck is running and see if it kills the engine, if it doesen't unplug the other one on the same side of the valve cover. If both of these don't cause any change then you have a bigger problem, the IDM (Injector drive module).

FAIR WARNING: When you unplug the wires with the truck on it is extremely dangerous, it is 110 volt feed. It can kill you.

OK, the IDM is a silver box, 8"x10" approx dimensions, located on the driver side under the hood, over top the front tire. If you take the wires you unplugged and take a multi meter to them and they are dead, you have a bad IDM. This was the case with my truck. Ford designed the IDM to have a hole in the side to allow condensation to escape from it, unfortunately, this allows water inside and will short out resistors and practically kill half of your engine. Buy a new IDM on ebay for about $380. It takes 5 minuts to put it in.

I hope this helps you out man.