Is there an easy way to remove the wiring harnesses when swapping motors in a vt or do I have to unplug every wire

Doing this kind of swap is never easy my friend. I've done many this way. Yes, you have to change the COMPLETE wiring harness from front to back and under dash. It really isn't all that hard, it just depends on how bad you want it to work right. So, change ALL from the headlight connectors to the fuel tank, and from the ECM to the instrument cluster. Even the instruments if need be. It WILL work. Patience Brother, patience. That's the key to getting all you want.

Secure Download HONDA ODYSSEY SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL 1999 2000 2001 2002...


for the easy solution download the pdf file

92-00 Honda Engine Swap Wiring Guide VTEC AND NON ...

honda-tech.com/.../92-00-honda-engine-swap-wiring-guide-vtec-non-vt...
Oct 8, 2011 - 92-00 Swap Wiring Guide for VTEC and Non-VTEC ... try to compile one thread that would try to answer pretty much 95% of all questions ... I wanted to do this because often times I end up posting the same thing to ... to ECU harness so using an EX/SI 92-95 engine harness will make VTEC plug and play.

97 accord non VTEC to VTEC ' HondaSwap

hondaswap.com > Model Specific > Accord
Jan 16, 2010 - 15 posts - ‎6 authors The distributors may be different on the vtec/non vtec. .... As was previously stated, allyou need to do is add wiring for VTEC. ... that connect to the ecu to the connectorsthat wire in your engine harness while the engine is out... f22b2 non vetec swap to f22b vtec need help asap
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THE LIGHTING WIRING HARNESSES NEED NOT BE REMOVED TO DO ENGINE WORK. THEY SHOULD WORK NO MATTER WHICH ENGINE YOU HAVE.

same transmission? same engine? 98-99 was the cut-over year for changing small block chevy motors

There is no such thing as an easy fix with electrics, however..down by the feet there is a kick panel, remove the panel and unplug the harness going into the door-well remove the door trim off the door and unplug the wiring off the controls, remove the loom and take it inside to repair the broken or frayed wires. or get a replacement from the wreckers., assembly is the reverse however, buy a roll of electrical tape and be generous in wrapping the loom once mounted back make sure the door is not pinching it anywhere, {zip ties work well} hope this helps, its fiddly but what may take a couple of hours will save you lots of swearing and frustration. good luck.

Sound like you having an issue with the sliding door. This is a common issue on this model. It can possibly be the cable or wiring harness. Its most likely the wiring harness because it gets strained a lot from repetitive bending. The harness is about $300 including labor, depending what location your in. The cable I could not find a price on because it looks like its a dealer part only.

This problem could be diagnosed easily two ways.
1. Swap passenger side for driver side harnesses and see if it works.
2. Use multimeter to test continuity between the ends of the harness.
- Disconnect the battery. I proceeded to unplug the harness on the car side which is behind plastic panel attached to the pillar between the front seat area and back sear area.
- Unplugged the harness on the motor/door side. Put your meter on ohms or continuity and test between both ends of the plugs all wires for continuity.
-If the passenger harness has the same is they you can access the cable there.
- Slide the door shut and open for each wire. There are approximately 8 or 9 wires in the plug. Most of the wires are smaller and there were 2-3 that are a larger gage.
-What ever wire is determined to not be working replace the broken link with new wire, soldering or carefully crimping.

Hope this gave you some insight!

chech for loose wiring on the ignition. remove the steering cover and with key on engine off stand out of the way of airbag and wiggle the electrical connector and see if u can duplicate problem also check 4 chaffed wiring

1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2. From the passenger foot well area, remove the two hex screws used to secure the blower motor resistor.
3. Unplug the front blower motor resistor from the wire harness connector.
4. Pull the front blower motor resistor and its wire harness out of the plenum panel and through the cowl plenum access hole far enough to access the wire harness connector.
5. Remove the front blower motor resistor from the cowl plenum.

INSTALLATION

1. Plug the blower motor resistor into the wire harness connector.
2. Install the blower motor resistor to the cowl plenum panel by feeding the resistor and wire harness back through the cowl plenum access hole.
3. Install and tighten the two screws that secure the resistor to the HVAC unit Tighten the screws to 2.2 Nm (20 in. lbs.) .
4. Connect the battery negative cable

Unfortunately, there is no easy solution here. I had the same problem with my race car. I swapped a 96 2.2 into my 97 racecar and ended up having to also swap the engine wiring harness, computer, instrament cluster and pass module. The engine harness will bolt to the interior harness even though the wire colors are not the same. Just make sure you match the large yellow wire on the 96 harness to the large purple wire on the 97 harness. It sounds pretty complicated but it only took me maybe an hour to perform the swap. Now I'm back up and running and will be racing again this weekend.