Entire truck goes dead no lights on panel nothing is it a major fuse

There should be a fuse for the gauges if that is what is not working. When you say burnt out.... do you mean nothing is functioning or there is no back lighting. If you are reffering to back lighting, the dash lights work in series with the park lights. Check for park lights working on the vehicle. If no park light, check fuses. If nothing working, try slapping on top of the dash area above the instrument panel to see if it starts working again

you will have to re-enter the radio code because when the battery is dead the radio thinks that it is being stolen and goes into anti-theft mode.

check fuses and relays in the fuse box. could also be a bad ground

Also check your main fuses, in the separate fuse box within the engine bay area.

If the battery has voltage but the car is dead, check the cables and the fuseable links. The fuseable links are wires that act like fuses. There may also be some maxi fuses that power the fuse boxes and major components. Also check the ground connections.
In most cases a major fuse is blown or the battery cables are corroded.

The interior map lamps are powered buy the battery saver relay ( non serviceable relay ) Which is powered by Fuse #25 ( cab fuse panel ).
This is for the engine compartment and illuminated vanity lamps, as well as the map lights.

The FET ( Field-Effect Transistor ) shows the fuse #9 also on it. ( marked interior lighting ), which power the interior lamps ( door / switch ).

Could be a few things if both those fuses are OK.

1. The map / interior lamp combos are usually dual element bulbs, which means if the interior lamps ( door or dimer switch on headlamp panel ) are OK, it could still be a burn out bulb.

2. The FET is having an issue from a dead short ( blown bulb or dead short to ground ). Until the short is correct, the FET will not turn back on.

Start with checking Fuse #9 ( marked as Fuse #8 in the diagram, but that shows headlamp ), which is to the interior lamps, and drives 1 side of the FET.

check fuses if not the dash panel might need to be replaced there is a circuit board back there if one part burns out everything goes out.Had that problem on one of my cars

OK ... being as you've ripped the entire interior out things might be easier to disconnect now .... I suspect the dash light dimmer assembly (I don't remember but this vehicle may even have a dimmer fuse??? check the owners manual ...) which goes to many lights and if damaged shows a dead short (has the radio ever been changed?) I would first disconnect the dimmer assembly (cluster lamps) (that will eliminate that circuit) replace the fuse and try turning the parking lamps on ... if the fuse blows again ... it's not the dimmer cicuit ... then ... You will measure a short when checking continuity between negative battery terminal and the light circuit as the filaments in the lamps will read continuity but it should show some resistance and not a dead short under normal conditions. I would then disconnect the harnesses going to the rear of the car located in the left kick panel and or the right kick panel .... the way you will solve it is to work one section at a time ... and a bunch of fuses ... trial and error then focus on the suspect section ... the thing that gets me is: you say the short goes away (on the meter) when the brakes are applied or left turn signal. So it might be in the rear harness ... I would also inspect the left rear light assembly and the harness to it (possibly a bad ground) good luck and let me know what you find

Check for broken/dmaged wire(s) in loom that goes from post to door in hinge area.

check bus master fuse going into the fuse box. this one brings all major power from battery to your electronics. unplug batter
y from neg port first. then check general fuses for lighting systems one by one.