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Barbara Milligan Posted on Dec 30, 2014
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Question again on my 2002 Grand Prix GT. The electric issue is still going on. Now, it has started "not starting" yet intermittently. It'll take a few turns of the key to start and sometimes it starts

My husband checked voltage on battery and connections between starter and battery. Also checked fuses- all appear fine. He has also checked the voltage between the starter and the purple ignition starter wire. All read when websites stated they should.

  • Antonio Delgado
    Antonio Delgado Dec 30, 2014

    Hi Barbara Milligan, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?

  • Barbara Milligan
    Barbara Milligan Dec 30, 2014

    Sure! I'd love to have help. What do you need to know?

×

2 Answers

Clyde Hanson

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  • Expert 221 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 30, 2014
Clyde Hanson
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The generic advice is to clean and tighten all the connections to the starter. If that doesn't help, then the problem would be in the starter.

Testimonial: "Thanks antiquetech. My husband did clean all the connections and he says for the moment it isn't having the same issues. We are going to take it into town here in a bit so I will report back whether or not it happens again. (Which has been often) Thanks!"

Antonio Delgado

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  • Pontiac Expert 211 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 31, 2014
Antonio Delgado
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Ok lets try narrowing this down. you say he has checked all connections and they are functioning right. So one turns the key slowly and it starts when it want to right. Ok I am curious, lets try this I want you to turn the key on on the starting point and if possible crank the starter from the solenoid where the battery cable and the purple wire if connected to the starter solenoid. In other words I want you to jump it using a small screwdriver careful not to burn your self. Now it it starts when u crank it in this order then the problem is somewhere else. higher up. Now do this 2 to 3 times and see if it starts every time. If so then let it run for a but and warm up. If it stays running which is a good thing then we go higher up the ladder to try and locate this problem. Now if the cars starts every time it is not a key issue because if it was it would lock you out. So let me know because next it could be your ignition switch worn out or your key is worn out but we come to that later, first I want to know if this starts your car. Good luck.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 334 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 17, 2011

SOURCE: I have a 95 firebird.

It's when the security light starts flashing that the infamous "chip" in the key becomes a nightmare to many. Gradually the car begins not cranking anymore or if it cranks it would start and die in a second. Randomly it will do this more and more often until it won't start anymore. VATS, PASSkey and Passlock immobilizer systems are killing cars all over North America, they have a short lifespan and are certainly more effective against owners than thieves. Here is how you save your car
1st trick, Try a spare key that is newer or used less. The pins wear down and so do the keys causing security fail. 2nd trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my regal for more than a year. If its shutting down while running, im sorry i have no quick fix... If anything on this page helps you, please remember to comment or give me a thumbs up on the myfixya sight so i can have a better rating to help more people on this. Thanks

Cheap fix: Bypass the chip in your key. Temporary, but effective. Until the TDM (theft deterrent module) in the dash poops out, then you're kinda screwed. I was told that these types of key security systems have a 7-10 year life span. Sucks for us. This link explains the "Key Issue" pretty well.
----- http://vats.likeabigdog.com/


Never worry again fix: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it out, and throw it away. I just did this in my Regal. Took about an hour. Took longer to find the thing than it did to fix the problem. They sell a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. life time-money back and all that. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200 if you've looked into getting this replaced... Anywhere from 600-1000 bucks. If you do buy this, please purchase it thru this link. The cost is the same, but i get credit for the sale and im trying to earn my money back, as you will be able to do if you buy fron NewRockies and join the free affiliate program. Thanks
----- http://newrockies.ca?ap_id=judd0081 ----- With this fix, you can take that whole Vats, passlock, passkey system out of your car all together. Good info on both sites.

It works for:
Any GM or Isuzu Vehicle with VATS or PASSKey or PASSLock security systems.
If your car has the chip in the key or in the lock cylinder, then you can save it with this Full Bypass.
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Anonymous

  • 77 Answers
  • Posted on May 21, 2009

SOURCE: 2002 Pontiac Grand prix wont start; unable to remove key

On many cars, if the battery is dead, it locks the key in the ignition. Put a battery charger on the car or replace the battery and give it a shot.

Good luck.

beest921

Sammy Broussard

  • 28 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 22, 2008

SOURCE: Automobile electrical problem

I hate to say it but GM "W" bodies of that time period ( Regal, Cutlass Supreme, Lumina, and Grand Prix) are notorious for turn signal problems. I'm a machanic and also have owned 3 W body vehicles. The pivot bushing in the switch wears prematurely and in turn causes the copper contacts to barely touch each other. If the contacts are dirty, there is resistance. Where there is resistance, there is heat, hence the smoke. It's just a poor design. What I do instead of replacing the switch requires some time and some surgical skill but it always works for me. At the pivot end of the switch, I remove the screw and remove the metal tube insert. I wrap the metal with electrical tape to take up the slack from the wear then grease the heck out of it. At the contact end I attach a piece of sheet metal to the bottom of the movable part of the switch so it sits underneath the non-moveable part making it so the moveable part can't lift up and lose contact. That's just a vague description but if you want a detailed one let me know and I'll write one. I did it to my '89 Regal 4 yrs. ago and to my wife's Grand Prix 1 yr. ago and they both still work great. Just a design flaw in the switch. Sometimes you have to pick up wher the car companies left off! beest921

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 31, 2008

SOURCE: Ignition problem

hey, I had the same problem before, exactly the same thing. I had to replace the ignition switch wiring, not the ignition key cylinder. the wires that go from steering wheel to the bottom near the brake and gas pedals, is not hard to do, I did it myself and the wiring cost 90.00. that fixed my problem, try!!!

Anonymous

  • 169 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 30, 2009

SOURCE: Car doesn't start, yet alternator and battery are

I take it the car don't crank over. Check battery cables & grounds if you have aftermarket alarm remove it ck neutral safety switch & ignition switch

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