Question about 1987 Honda Accord

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Have a 1987 honda accord 2.0l with #1 cylinder connecting rod knock. How hard is it to replace without removing engine considering that the journals are ok?

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  • Honda Master
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Hard for whom?
what tools? and what luck, ? what you find is what you find.

so yank off the head and pan, and the bash the piston up
past the cylinder ridge breaking 3 rings, then drop in bearings that
dont fit, and then put it back, with bad rings?: that?
say 5 hours in an out , ? (tools missing ,makes my guess wrong)
skills and tools. all change time factors.

why not pull the engine and do it right... ? have you run a block pressure test,to see if its not cracked,? (at rad cap and tool>)?

Posted on Jan 05, 2015

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  • Honda Master
  • 3,904 Answers

In mount repair is labor intensive but not a hard fix in the grand scheme of understanding. Just plan a full day and a half.

Posted on Jan 05, 2015

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SOURCE: cold start problems with 1987 honda accord

I have an 87 accord manual carbureted with 200k miles on it and mine has done that ever since I got it. I've owned it for about four years now and the previous owner told me it happens. I have no idea what it means but the only problem I've ever had was when the alternator went out last summer (which I doubt is related but had similar symptoms).

Not a solution, more just commiseration.

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SOURCE: 1987 honda accord lxi

digrama del circuito electrico

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

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SOURCE: Honda Accord one cylinder not firing

The cylinder is not getting fuel, spark or compression. You have already checked for spark on that cable and it appears to be good. Pull the spark plug and see if it is damaged. You can also switch spark plug and cable to another cylinder and see if the miss travels with the plug and or cable. If so, you'll know its the spark plug/cable that is bad.

You can check for fuel by listening to the fuel injector to see if it clicks. Use an automotive stethoscope or a long screwdriver--put the metal end of the screwdriver on the injector and the other end against your ear and listen to the injector while the engine is cranking or running. You should hear it click for each time it pulses fuel.

If both fuel and spark are good, then you are probably missing compression in that cylinder. You (or a mechanic) will need to pull all the spark plugs and do a engine compression test with a compression test/gage set. Lots of things can lead to poor or zero compression including: broken piston rings, burned/stuck/broken valves, cracked cylinder head or engine block, cracked pistons,etc.

Because one cylinder is "dead", the engine has to work extra hard to start and run against a cylinder that is dragging it down. If you find low/no compression in that cylinder, you will probably have to remove the cylinder head to correct it. A big expensive job. It may be cost effective to replace the whole engine with a rebuilt one.

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

  • 218 Answers

SOURCE: '93 Chev Suburban engine knock, sounds like rod

MAKE SURE THE CRANKSHAFT IS NO DAMAGED.IF IT IS THE NEW BEARINGS WILL GO BAD QUICKLY

Posted on May 06, 2009

  • 94 Answers

SOURCE: Replace starter on 2003 Honda Accord w/4 cylinder

disconnect the cable to the battery........there is 3 bolt holding the starter to the engine/transmission housing. You may need to remove the air intake manifold to gain access to the work area.

Posted on Mar 24, 2010

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You can do that. I would check cylinder wall taper and ring gap. If the knock is coming from a rod bearing, I would plasti-gauge that journal first to make sure that the crankshaft doesn't need turned. Besides that, you should be ok.

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The engine has blown. I need to replace it or change pistons and rings. How difficult is it to change pistons and rings?


It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods
  1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
    1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
    2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
    3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
    4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
    5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge tccs3923.gif

    6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert tccs3917.gif

  2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
  3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston tccs3222.gif

  4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer tccs3914.gif

  5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
  6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
  7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
  8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
  9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
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My car goes dead when i put on my brakes and my choke is sticking and i have a rod knocking it is a 1987 buick century 4 cylinder


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After replacing all the rod and main bearings, and the oil pump, i am still getting a knock from the #1 cylinder.the bearings show no abnormal wear.its a 95 4.0 w/ 110,000 miles and yes i primed the pump,...


Hi...I responded to your earlier post.
I asked if you had plasti-gaged the crank journals before putting it back together. Sometime s one or more journals are more worn than the others and require a slightly over-sized bearing. If one journal is undersize it will cause a knock. Additionally I mentioned that the wrist-pin may be worn (the pivot pin that connects the piston to the connecting rod) An experienced tech can hear the difference...it is a slightly different, double knock. Less likely, but can happen, a piston skirt may be worn. That can sound like a knock. Older 4.0 engines were famous for that but haven't seen one recently. (usually noise subsides a bit as the engine gets hotter) What does your oil pressure look like? sometimes the camshaft bearings can wear enough to lower the crank pressure and cause knocking as well. (unusual but if engine was starved for oil before replacing the crank bearings it is a possibility.)

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1989 jeep cherokee makes loud knocking noise in straight line six 4.0 engine. Engine does not smoke and does not appear to have a miss.


Four things can give you a knocking noise. 1. failed rod bearing 2.failed main bearing 3. Bad piston wristpin 4. broken flex plate (auto trans)
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Only a good experienced tech can differentiate between the noises so I suggest you seek aid in your diagnosis, though, if either bearing or piston is the problem I'd likely find another engine before considering the repair.

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  • Drain the engine oil.
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    Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
    Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
    Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
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    The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
    When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.

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