Question about 2011 Toyota Camry

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Need to find a wire,fuse, or something that becomes hot when key is turned on. Even to the first position, and then off when key is turned off??

About every fuse, empty or not and several wires. this connection really needs to be by the fuse box under hood!! Any HELP PLEASE??????

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  • Toyota Master
  • 20,706 Answers

My guess ? you are adding accessories? why not say job>?
put us on same page?
the drawings are easy to get.
the FSM has them , buy it and Toy, Factory service manual.
or alldata.com. (sure google it)
any car anytime,
dont work blind, buy the book or log in

Posted on Dec 15, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Replaced fuel pump and filter and car still wont start. Have new battery, starter, water pump...


I saw what you replaced, didn't see any testing? Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good, that is positive and ground, both are important. Check fusible links where applicable? Do any electricals work, dash lites--headlamps--anything?
If needed check fuses in fuse box for voltage use a test lite. Some fuses are hot all the time, some go hot with the key on. Just pick any component that isn't working and is fuse protected, check voltage at the fuse.
The starter motor usually has two voltage circuits, one comes from the battery, hot all the time. The other circuit should go hot with key in the crank position and is wired through neutral or clutch switch, depending on the tranny. It is possible to be wired through starter relay, depending on the vehicle. Any starter testing, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set.
I need year--make--model.

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My radiator fan always turns on even i wake up in the morning i turn on the car it turns on


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There is a fuse for the warning lights and gauges. Yes, you checked the fuses and relays, but you need to check if power is there at the fuse, with the key in the on position.

Here's how turning the key to on causes the warning lights and gauges to turn on: From your ignition switch the on or run wire out of it will have power with key on. The run wire will also send power to the part of the fuse panel that is of the category "hot in run or on", where your fuse for the dash warn. lts. & gauges is- it may be labeled "meter" or "gauges" or like that. From the fuse, a hot wire goes into the harness for the instrument cluster-for the warning lights and gauges. The wire, like the fuse, is only hot in on or run.

The ignition's run wire may splice with a direct connection to some fuses, or more likely there may be an "ignition relay" that powers the "hot in run or on" fuses, and the run wire is used to turn the relay on. You could look for this relay just above or around the fuse panel under the dash. But the easiest place to start is to see if the fuse for the gauges has power to it with the key in on. If it does, the problem is up further on at the cluster connection or a ground for the gauges and cluster. If the fuse has no power available, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. That could be a faulty ignition relay.

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1 Answer

What is the cable connected to the ignition that controls the dash board's gadgets


You mean by gadgets, warning lights and gauges? That would be from the ignition switch's run wire, the wire from the on position. This wire sends voltage to the ignition system, and to the dash for the warning lights and gauges-but not directly to the dash-the signal would reach the dash after being routed through the fuse panel to a fuse for the dash gauges and warning lamps. You need to check if that fuse is good.
Recall seeing any wiring diagram? The fuses are labeled either "hot at all times" or "hot in run or start". The fuses labeled hot in run or start are only sent power when the key is on, so power for those fuses are routed through, or turned on by the key being on. Depending on the car and its wiring set up, many will have relays that are turned on by the run wire, and power is then sent from the relay to that circuit's fuse in the fuse panel. This relay may be called the ignition relay. Or your car may have a different relay to send power from the run wire to the fuse panel.
The only way to figure yours out is to see a wiring diagram for it. Then you will see how power is sent from the ignition switch to the dash.
Wiring diagrams are almost always found in repair manuals. Check if your library has a manual for your car. Most libraries have quite a few repair manuals. Or parts stores sell repair manuals too, for about $25. Try to find a Haynes repair manual for your car. The other popular repair manual is from Chilton. My preference is Haynes, just my preference. I been burned by Chilton manuals sooo many times-incomplete wiring diagrams, incorrect information, incomplete information. Haynes are not perfect by any means, you want perfection-spend big bucks for a factory service manual ! In general, Haynes is more complete than Chilton.
OK, enough venting. If you have a test light, check for power at the fuse for the dash (may be labeled "gauges" or "instr pnl", something like that) with the key on. If it has power with key on, wire from the fuse goes to the dash. If that fuse has no power to it with key on, power has been lost between the ignition switch and that fuse-now you definitely need a wiring diagram to find the problem.

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YOur guage is faulty. Your will need to replace your guage if it stays in the hot position even when your car is off and your key is out of the ignition. If it only rises to hot when you turn the key to the run position, you have a wire between your guage and your temp sending unit that has been gounded out. Usually this happens when a person opens their hood to add oil or perform some minor maintenance on the engine and inadvertantly bumps the sensor or switch or wiring. This causes about 65% of these minor issues people incur, but if it does stay all the way up with your key out of the ignition switch, then you will need to replace your temp guage.

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1 Answer

Changed fuel pump, truck will not crank unless fuel is poured into throttle body. when cutting switch on fuel pump does not come on, checked all fueses.


Hello...
The Sonoma has a Fuel Pump relay controled by the ECM "B" fuse and the ECM/PCM itself.
The relay is in the underhood relay box. 30 will be hot all the time 85 is your key. It will become hot for 3 seconds when the key is initially turned on. It will stay alive when the key is in the run or on position B if the ECM/PCM is working correctly.
If everything there is okay then its a ground problem at G102 or G402 or Wiring issue to the pump...
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1 Answer

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When the fuse keeps blowing, there is only one reason why. That is because there is a short, not because other fuses are missing. For example if the fuse is rated at 10amps, and the wire after the fuse is drawing more than 10 amps it will blow. If for example you put a bulb in series with the wire than is only drawing 2amps the fuse will not blow that is because you have put a load that is less than what the fuse is rated for. One way to trace a short is to start where the fuse is at. Find which is the wire connected to that fuse. one side of the fuse is connected to the battery and the other side goes to whatever device it supply, and there maybe several of them. Note what else do not work beside the turn signal, Most short occur where there is an electronic device. Since your car is an older model, it is unlikely to an electronic device, but a wiring may have been worked on and somehow a hot wire is touching the body of the car. If the fuse blows only when the key is in the on position, then logically you would look at the back where the rear lighting may have been worked on, thats because turn signal are always off when the key is off. If it blows even when the key is off then you know there is something else beside the turn signal that the fuse is connected to that is on even when the key is off such as tail lights because you can turn on the tail light with the ignition off. You get what I mean?

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1 Answer

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Hi there. It sounds like the car has a short between the II and I position. Something like the ACC and START positions in domestic and imports. And it all happened when replacing the starter. These wires are touching chassis, or ground. Try removing and emplace it again, making sure the wires are not touching GND. If problem persists, then the problem might be in the switch, ergo, requiring further inspection of the electrical system, including the wiring. Also check the fuses and make sure they are not blown. If replaced and still blowing, is a critical shortage, and the risk of an electrical fire will become imminent. Let me know how things go. Good luck.

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