What happens when a clutch bell fails on a nitro engine?

1991 Prizm (aka, Corolla) dead clutch (aka SLIPS)
does engine crank and start in gear? in gear?
the first thing to check is the clutch pedal actuation system.
cable on some , and Hydraulic on othere
open hood, see that MC for clutch, is the Reservoir dry?
yes, no?
yes, then the slave or mc is bad or both, the one leaking is bad.
Most cases Hydra clutches can not cause slip. (rare)
its a cable, can if cable frays inside or rust, (big time common)
well all cable clutches need service, if not it fails.
called setting free play in the book, FSM book
I love the above post where he guesses then sets a price.
first is diagnosis prices last and varies all over planet earth
and is useless here. prices. always.
Ill look in Michell's for you.
it's not a cable system,
Mitchells shows, hydra. clutch
so unbolt the slave.(on bell)
start car in gear, does car move. yes /no?
yes, clutch ok , and slave is siezed.
no, then clutch is bad (inside bell housing) $$$$$

i posted both ways, as these era cars run to clutch systems.
that could even change mid year, production.

S= slave
Bell = bell housing
L = clutch lever.
see the 2 bolts?
some Slaves can seize (due to running old fluid full of water)
Dot3 fluid is hydrascopic and needs service every 2 years. min.
we check the MC and all parts related here.
to see if the L lever is stuck to the right above.
never condemn any clutch until these checks are done
or go broke fast. IMO

Can't push clutch pedal in - JeepForum.com

www.jeepforum.com > ... > TJ Wrangler Technical Forum

Dec 11, 2010 - 7 posts - ‎3 authors
Driving home last night and the clutch pedal falls to the floor. ... Forums > TJWrangler Technical Forum > Can't push clutch pedal in ... Comes back up but then Ican't push it back in at all, even trying to stand on it, won't budge. Clutch locking up?
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With the engine off, i can push the clutch in, and shift through all the gears ... to move - the clutch isn't disengaged even with the pedal fully depressed. .... Also, trying to bleed the system, can't find the bleeder screw. .... 1991 Jeep Wrangler Stuck In Gear? jeffasel, YJ Tech Forum, 5, 10-19-2010 09:42 AM. Getting difficult to push clutch pedal down, HELP
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Did this happen immediately after the replacement, or did it work a while and then fail? If it happened immediately, I would look for an electrical connector that was missed. I am not extremely familiar with that model and engine, but many vehicles have the crank sensor installed in the transmission bell housing. If this was not replaced or connected, the car would do just what you describe.

How long has the clutch been in the vehicle the do wear out and that can cause these kinds of problems

Go to the bell housing and look to the fork that controls the clutch inside. it has a rod with a ball on one end, and that is bolted onto a bell crank that leads to your clutch pedal That rod usually has some adjust-ability. Making it longer will take out some play. Don't do to much at once or the bearing will hit the clutch and burn out in no time. It cannot touch the diaphragm of the clutch until the clutch is depressed. NO BEARING NOISE, PLEASE.This is an art more than a science. Take your time and be careful not to over tighten, Another thing, These combinations often bent the clutch fork under stress, so if you change a clutch, I recommend you replace the fork. It can drive a guy nuts with weird happenings under there. Solid parts make for better shifting and a one piece trans. I had a 65 SuperSport, my first Chevy, and it was a love/hate relationship. Good luck and let us know your outcome.

It could be a loose/failed engine or transmission mount. Look at the tranny rear mount and check the bolts and condition. Also check the bell housing bolts AND the bolts connecting the engine flywheel to the clutch pressure plate.

The clutch hydraulic system is very simple, just 3 pieces. There is the clutch master cylinder with attached fluid reservoir-mounted on the firewall, there is a steel line from the master going down to the transaxle bell housing, and there is the clutch slave cylinder on the bell housing that the steel line connects to.
If yours is leaking under the car, it is probably the slave cylinder, either that or the steel line. Either one should be easy to replace.

If you have driven 26,000 without a problem I doubt it's related to the clutch replacement, but I think we need more info here.
Does the car make the noise multiple times during one trip (on and off as you start and stop)?
Can you hear it when you are parked in your driveway? The best thing to do would be to get out of the car when you hear the noise, pop the hood, and try to locate which part of the engine it is coming from. Then we can move on from there.

M/T car with a clutch
the slave is the device that pushes the clutch lever , as it enters the clutch bell housing (the hunk of alum. that is between the engine and trans 'bell shaped..)
400 or 4000? , my guess is you mean, 4000 rpm
3000 on the round is normal./
the engine should idle at 800 rpm.
that is just 1 tick below the 1 (1 = 1000 on the scale see the 1k or
x1000 on the dial, that means all numbers are times 1000.
so point 8 rpm is 0.8 x 1000 or 800.

do not ride the clutch pedal or you will buy many a clutch.
the save bad, never cause, slipping clutch. (near impossible)
the hyd, clutch actuator is self adjusting as clutch wears.
the clutch will grind gears if the slave fails. the slave annoucces its bad in advance buy loss of fluid on ground and level drop on the cutch master cylinder.
post the symptoms, and ask for help based on those facts.
a slipping clutch is a bad clutch. (or soaked in oil, and same )
please repost real RPMs using the x1000 scale factor for best answer
and when they happen.

Hi, procedure from autozone.com pasted below. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

CAUTION The clutch driven disc often contains asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer-causing agent Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air. Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface. When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially-available brake cleaning fluid.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Lift the clutch pedal to its upward-most position to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Push the quadrant forward, unhook the cable from the quadrant and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
2. Open the hood and remove the screw that holds the cable assembly isolator to the dash panel.
3. Pull the cable through the dash panel and into the engine compartment. On 5.0L engines, remove the cable bracket screw from the fender apron.
4. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
5. Remove the dust cover from the bell housing.
6. Remove the clip retainer holding the cable assembly to the bell housing.
7. Slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly through the hole in the clutch release lever and remove the cable.
8. Remove the dash panel isolator from the cable.

To install:

1. Install the dash panel isolator on the cable assembly.
2. Insert the cable through the hole in the bell housing and through the hole in the clutch release lever. Slide the ball on the end of the cable assembly away from the hole in the clutch release lever.
3. Install the clip retainer that holds the cable assembly to the bell housing.
4. Install the dust shield on the bell housing.
5. Push the cable assembly into the engine compartment and lower the vehicle. On 5.0L engines, install the cable bracket screw in the fender apron.
6. Push the cable assembly into the hole in the dash panel and secure the isolator with a screw.
7. Install the cable assembly by lifting the clutch pedal to disengage the pawl and quadrant. Then, pushing the quadrant forward, hook the end of the cable over the rear of the quadrant.
8. Depress the clutch cable several times to adjust the cable.