Question about 1995 Dodge Dakota
Replace 15 amp fuse under dash that was blown, replaced switch, checked 50 amp fuse in engine compartment, have power to switch and to fuse block in engine compartment.
Did you check for voltage at the 50 amp fuse circuit. Even if the fuse is good if no voltage on the fuse circuit, the circuit is still dead. There is a light green wire that carries voltage from headlamp switch to dimmer, is that wire hot with headlamp switch on?
There are wiring diagrams for free, just about everywhere, if you don't have one. Autozone .com has free wiring diagrams on vehicle repair guides link. You have to register your vehicle, year--make--model, all that good stuff. It's free.
Posted on Dec 15, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have 2002 dodge Dakota
Check these fuses again:
In the Power Distribution Center (in the engine compartment, left fender panel) Fuse #3 (20 Amp) Fuse #7 (40 Amp), Fuse #12 (20 Amp) and in the Junction Block (on the left end of the dash) Fuse #1 (15 Amp)
Use a test lamp and make sure that these fuses have power. All of these fuses should all have power at all times, regardless of ignition switch position. If they are all good and have power, then you probably need to replace your Central Timer Module. All of the circuits you listed are dependant on this module for operation.
The Central Timer Module is located at the left kick panel.
Central Timer Module System
The CTM is available in a BASE or a HIGHLINE configuration. The BASE and HIGHLINE CTM provide the following features:
• Battery saver functions for exterior and interior lights
• Cargo lamps chime warning
• Courtesy lamps
• Dome lamps
• Dome lamp defeat
• Door ajar switch state
• Fog lamps
• Headlamp time delay
• Intermittent wiper controls
• Low and high beam head lamps
• Optical horn
• Park lamps
In addition, the HIGHLINE CTM provides the following features:
• Central locking
• Door lock inhibit
• Driver door unlock
• Enhanced accident response
• Horn chirp
• Optical chirp
• Power door locks
• Remote keyless entry (VTSS)
• Remote radio
Posted on May 03, 2011
One simple thing is taht none of the Instruments can work or illuminate without 12 Volt Power. Obviously, you have many possibilities that can cause your problem. 1. Age of Vehicle and it's wiring system. 2. Have you checked the fuses using an Ohm Meter to really check that they are good? 3. Any flexible printed circuitry in the Instrument cluster can come detached from the plastic backing and no longer mate with the Wiring Harness Connectors. 4. Are there any Idiot Light Bulbs? If so, check each one individually after removal with a known good 12 Volt power supply.
Check all sources of Power starting at the Battery and work your way up to the Instrument Cluster making sure that you are getting 12 Volt power to the cluster. Also check for Ground at the cluster. This will require an Ohm Meter. Any wire can be fractured invisibly inside the Insulation. The older the vehicle, the greater chance for this to happen. Many fractures occur from Opening and closing door(s), Vibration and Road Shock while running over severe bumps and under hood heat. Grounded points under the Hood and Chassis often become corroded and no longer have good enough continuity to provide a good ground connection. Any one of these things can be very time consuming to trouble shoot. Firewall connectors where many vehicles have upwards of 20 contacts are a very common problem for corrosion especially from Road Salt Spray. These must be thoroughly inspected, cleaned and lubricated with white grease to prevent further corrosion. You might find one or more contacts deformed during original factory assembly. This is not uncommon. To properly diagnose your problem you will need a complete wiring diagram for your vehicle.
Posted on Jan 07, 2012
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