Question about Cars & Trucks
If you have the hub locks in and both front wheels on the ground then it will only turn when the vehicle is moving
Posted on Dec 15, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
more than like have a broken axle shaft, un hook the rear drive shaft and put it in 4wd if it wont move then you know you got a broken axle shaft or spider gears broke in the pumpkin
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
SOURCE: 4x4 wont engage
First thing to make sure of is to check for a blown fuse. The fuse location is marked 4WD and it should be a 25 amp fuse. If the fuse is bad, the lights on the 4wd console wont light up. If the lights do light up, then you can move to the transfer case. On top of the transfer case, toward the rear of the truck is a switch that has a 2 wire connector. That switch sends power to the front axle actuator when you try to enagage 4wd inside the truck. That could be bad. The switch is threaded into the transfer case and is still available through GM. If the switch is ok and the wiring that attaches to it is ok, then you can move up to the axle. Threaded into the front axle is the front axle actuator. These actuators are prone to failure in older trucks and is very prone to cold weather failure. You can test the actuator by removing it and then WITHOUT the truck running, put the truck into 4wd and then turn the key to the hot position. The plunger inside the actuator will extended outwards. More than likely it will be one of those 3 things. If it still wont engage, you may have a short in one of the wiring harnesses associated with the 4wd system. Also, you may have a damaged transfer case. To check the transfer case, put the truck in 4wd without it running and then crawl underneath and see if you can turn the front shaft by hand. If not....it's good. If you can....then the shifter forks inside the case are worn or damaged. I hope this helps.....start small and work your way up!
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
I had the same thing happen. The automatic locking hubs are faulty, causing one or both hubs to try to engage or disengage onto the front driveshaft. This makes the clicking noise and loud clunking that you hear. You may notice your steering pulling to one side of the road,because one hub is locked in. Replace the automatic hubs with new ones, do not try to fix the old ones. I liked the
convience of automatic hubs but replaced mine with manual hubs, there just way more reliable.
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
The locking hub control system is not engaging properly. On the 99 Tracker this is a compressed air system that consists of an air pump (compressor), electrical wiring to power and control the air pump, and air hoses that lead to an actuator inside the front differential housing. If there is a leak in the system the PCM will run the air pump for 10 seconds and then shut off, and your propeller shaft can turn all day long, but the front axles will remain free floating. Turn on your key, not your engine, and engage four wheel high. Go listen near the passenger front bumper for the air compressor. If you hear it, then the compressor control and the compressor itself are likely fine. If it shuts off after 10 secs or so, and your 4WD light isn’t on, the PCM timed out the compressor out and shut the compressor off to protect it. You will have to find the leak and fix it. If you are lucky, it’s the air line leading to the front differential; and not the air line inside the differential housing, or the air bladder in the locking actuator, which also resides inside the font diff. If the compressor shuts off and the 4WD light is on (this means the PCM did not shut the air compressor off due to timeout, so the pressure switch read 5-7 psi and the pump shut itself off), you likely don’t have a leak, and something mechanical has the actuator hung up inside the front differential. Lastly if you don't hear the compressor run at all, you either have a faulty compressor, or some sort of wiring problem in that circuit.....it could be as simple as a blown fuse. Good luck.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
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