Question about 1995 Chrysler Cirrus

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95 cirrus lx 12,71,33,23 update. Engine runs great but engine lite won't go out for smog

Codes 12,71,33,23. New battery, ECM troubleshoot, re-flashed, re-programmed. Checking ground wires now but don't know where/how to diagnose 71 code. And is 12 a problem with engine running excellent?

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  • 27 Answers

How are you reading these codes? if you have an OBDII code reader then you should get a 4 digit code. you can go here to learn what they mean
http://engine-codes.com/search_codes.php?q=33

Posted on Dec 14, 2014

  • 2 more comments 
  • Kenneth Cushman
    Kenneth Cushman Dec 14, 2014

    1995 cirrus so a OBDII code reader doesn't work

  • gord bottrill
    gord bottrill Dec 14, 2014

    ok that explains that, try this page for more info

  • gord bottrill
    gord bottrill Dec 14, 2014

    Add a Commenthttp://en.allexperts.com/q/Chrysler-Repair-807/1995-Cirrus-Codes-12.htm

  • Kenneth Cushman
    Kenneth Cushman Dec 14, 2014

    Got reader to work. Checking 4 digit codes. Thanks gord. I really appreciate your help as I am a pre 1980's mechanic desparately trying to get to the 2014's and actually learn something. Thanks again.

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Hi I have 99 Chrysler cirrus with 212000miles on her she ran great tell now get hot about temp 250 then dies Replaced tps sensorNow what any answer.Code p1294 withch is for target idle no reached?


Sounds like you engine is overheating. Have you checked to see if your radiator fans are working ? Check fuses and also for any codes on your ECM

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Wont pass smog emission


DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE AT THE BATTERY,THEN WAIT FIVE MINUTES THEN RECONNECT,WHAT HAPPPEN?

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Engine code P0420


what a great loaded question, 3L V6 and Camry based car.

CE, LE, or XLE?

in USA?

what new PCM.? what parts changed, list all parts.

the FSM covers this. read it. (extensive it is)



you said new ECM(pcm), well is that from Toyota? or whom.?????

i sure cant guess your PCM source, there are many.

used, new TOY,rebuilt and aftermarket new.



the factory PCM on most cars are slicked, and must be flashed

to your options. and model, in fact this is a top goal of all car makers

1 ECU and fits 100 cars. a dream that is working.....

on a 2001 , well let see.



on line

Federal car or Calif car. 2 ECMs. in usa. (it dont mention flashing)

ouch $700 part.

are you sure its bad, most are, did you know about 85% sent in

are good
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https://parts.olathetoyota.com/2001toyotasiennaparts.html



got the IMMO option, if yes, it will never run.

immoblizer. RTM read the FSM manual;. its all there.





point 2, and best of all ,why not join a real forum

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The IMMO rules on most toyotas are the strictist of all cars.

never ever lose the master key or use it for daily use.



now back to the Blue box. P0420

the ECM is not bad for this..

it means the CAT is weak. (or dead)

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if the cat is bad this sensor B1S2 or B2S2, (do you have 2 sensor 2\'s)

if this O2 jumps widely, this means the cat is bad, its not working

or

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that is how 420s work. fix 420s DEAD LAST , always.



in shops the just slam in parts, labor is too expensive

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it does work , done it many a time.

even with cat full of oil, from a blown engine.

smoked white 20 miles ,then woke up and passed all smog.



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I have a '95 Cirrus LX 2.5L V6 (with 150k miles) that has been having the same problem -- it just shuts off unexpectedly while driving and then fails to start right afterward. No "Check Engine" light beforehand and no fault codes were stored. After setting for a while, the car would eventually start again. Initially this problem happened only seldomly but over several months it gradually became more frequent.

After doing a lot of research on the Internet and troubleshooting with the Haynes manual, the prime suspects were as follows:
1) Crankshaft Position Sensor (mounted onto the engine block under the distributor). I replaced this and the car started but it didn't last long before it abruptly quit again. This time, whatever was degrading finally broke for good; the car would no longer start even after sitting for a couple days.

2) Camshaft Position sensor and/or ignition coil -- (both are in the distributor on the 95 Cirrus LX 2.5L V6). I replaced the distributor (cost about $225). The car still would not start, though!

Using the electrical diagrams in the Haynes manual, I began troubleshooting and found that all of the top three mentioned items use the same +8VDC from pin 44 of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). I was only reading +4.88VDC -- way too low for for the two 'Hall Effect' solid-state sensors to work properly.

I didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars buying a new PCM if I wasn't absolutely sure it was the problem so I took out my PCM (it's up front between the fuse box and the air cleaner on the driver's side and can be removed fairly easily). Since this is a single-board electronic device, being an electronics technician, I tried an old trick and froze the PCM for more than 12 hours so the circuit board and solder joints would contract and make a better connection. I then reinstalled the PCM and tried starting the engine -- and it fired right up and ran smoothly.

So, the PCM (P/N PO4606064) ended up being my problem.

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Also, on one of the threads on the Internet for another person having this same problem, a Master Mechanic stated that 'Firm Feel Suspension (FFS)' was the same thing as "Speed Sensitive (power-assisted) Steering (SSS)". I confirmed with the Chrysler experts that THIS IS NOT THE CASE! They are separate things -- according to my VIN, my car does not have FFS but it has SSS.

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1 Answer

Engine hi engine diagnose lite on scantool


ay chek all the ground wires that go to the ecm
chek alterneter and battery
chek ignation module and the knock sensor
every won was good
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1 Answer

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