Question about Toyota Cars & Trucks
To me it looks like remove the front axle and lower the engine out the bottom. I have been told it may be easier to remove the cab and then you have easy access but to me that seems like a lot of work disconnecting air/con, fuel and oil lines, brakes, wiring, heaps of wiring etc
Why not read the FSM book on car.
factory service manual., buy one , read it.
it is a lot of work on all modern cars.
easy on old cars with just 2wd FWD. and even more easy with non
Posted on Dec 13, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1994 Toyota Truck 22R Engine
Saw your post on another thread. I have the same truck. The fuel filter is located on the rail just below the passenger door. Its an easy one to remove,...couple bolts, but access to it is a pain.
Posted on Aug 11, 2008
The oil pump can be changed without pulling the engine.
The impressive looking thing is the balance shaft assembly. These counter-rotating shafts balance out the inherent vibration of the engine. You can remove it, as long as you do not disrupt the gear placements relationship to each other. The balance assembly is set to a specific point.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
If this idles and starts fine, then fuel pump and distributor should be ok. If pump was bad, it would not likely start or run at all. If you have a distributor, then definately check your timing. That's what it sounds like is your timing is off. Do go over all your vaccum lines, that could have same result, but would probably idle fine but accelerate poorly if you had vaccum leak. If timing was off, then it would idle rough and have poor acceleration.
Do you have fuel injection or carbs? I like to use a can of "seafoam" Which removes moisture, depositsm, grime, dirt and anything elese in the fuel system that doesn't belong there.
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
SOURCE: 1999 Durango brake line leak
I have just done this job with aftermarket brake lines in three pieces, two 40" and one 30" joined by unions. I did not take the tank down, it is possible to reach the clips holding the brake line from the top reaching in with your fingers from the outside reaching over the frame. Make sure to have good light and a flashlight at hand. Above each clip holding the electric cable run you see next to the tank there is also a slot (in the same clip) for holding the brake line. I used the two long pieces in the rear and slid one in place, then joined it with the second one the short piece I used to do the final bend up to the junction block. The uninon for that one to the other two conveniently ended up right behind the front most clip holding the brake line and the fuel line to the chassis. I am not sure if I saved time or effort doing it this way I just shyed away from bringing down the tank as all I jacked up the car with was drive on ramps and there was not much space under it. Also the brake line did not conveniently burst when I had an almost empty tank to handle but the other way around...
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
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E60 Removing And Installing, Sealing Or Replacing Oil Sump (M54)
Necessary preliminary tasks. -
- Remove intake filter housing
- Remove guide tube for oil dipstick
- Lowering front axle support
- Drain off engine oil
- Disconnect plug connection to oil level sensor.
On vehicles with automatic transmission:
- Detach oil lines from automatic transmission and from oil pan.
- Unfasten oil pan screws at transmission and engine ends.
- Lower and remove oil pan.
Sealing faces clean and free of seal debris.
Apply approx.3 mm wide, 2 mm high coat of Drei Bond 1209 sealing agen to the area around seams.
Or take it to a dealer....
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