Question about Saturn Relay

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On car relays the ones with 4 or 5 pins how do tell if they are normally closed or normally open.

I know they have a little drawing on them but how do you tell by the lines on them.I know one if you give it volts it will not have any resistance,and the other will.Does anyone know?

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  • xkikbxr Dec 24, 2014

    Here is a link to a NO / NC diagram. Hope it helps. https://www.google.com/search?q=Normally...

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  • Master
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There may be symbols on the relay that will indicate NO or NC. The only other way to tell is if you buy the electrical repair manual for your car. The information in the schematics will show NO or NC. Taking the relay and testing it will tell you what it's doing right then. Using a DVM and testing continuity, if it's unplugged and and testing across the legs it shows all zeros it means that the circuit is complete and there is no resistance from point A to point B, but once power is put to the relay, if the same legs now show resistance (Numbers jumping up and down or anything other than zero, then your circuit is open.

Posted on Dec 13, 2014

Testimonial: "What I wanted to know on the relay itself how can you tell by the diagram if it is a normally open or normally closed"

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On a relay for a car I know there is normally closed and normally open what I want to know on the relay itself it has 1,2,3,4,or 85,86,87,87a,30 now on the diagram how do you tell if they are a normally...


The diagram usually displays the relay when there is no power applied. The normally open contacts are the ones not making contact until the power is applied. So, for the normally closed ones, the contacts touch until the power is applied to the relay. I hope this is the explanation you are looking for. Take care!

Dec 13, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

High beams wont come on !!


What relay's an fuse's ? open and close circuit test to the bulb connectors ??????? Voltage testing with a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter !
B+voltage going into the multifunction switch ? Fuse F2.59 7.5 amp located in the central junction box . Green with red trace goes to mulitifunction switch (high beam ) pin #6 , Pin#7 multifunction switch green with yellow trace goes to control (energize ) High beam relay . Control side high beam relay grounds at G103 ! High beam relay located in the battery junction box . Do you know how to test for B+ voltage ? Forget this open and close circuit test . Voltage drop testing is the correct way to test a electrical circuit , the circuit has to be energized .
Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? Did you view a wiring to know what you were testing ? If know ,you can't say you have a compleat circuit. Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info ,under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click on Head lamps . Click the search button then the blue link . Using a volt meter test .
Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens Shorts
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VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis


Jul 05, 2017 | 2005 Ford Focus

1 Answer

Wiring diagram


are the A/C fuses good? what transmission, auto or stick?
the first check is , does the compressor, cultch, engage
and spin the actual compressor main shaft at full speed.
yes, then loop is bad. (freon loop) (fan good)
No, then below is wrong. (electrical)
94/metro/swift
did you check pressures yet?
if not , then the hi/low limit switch may be open killing the compressor
so it dont self destruct, never bypass this limit switch.
the High low switch if open kills DC power to the A/C main relay. coil.
coil yellow wire must be at 12vdc or the loop has wrong pressures.!
dig,. it refuses to destroy its self. so kills the relay.

all posts, USA.
does the A/C lamp on dash turn on? if not the blower is dead.!
on the 94,(i dont have 93 drawings)
you can get better drawings for 94 at alldata.com, any time.
yellow wire is hot. (clutch dead)


the next point of failure is the car has throttle pedal switch
that is closed all time but wot, wide open throttle cuts AC.
so this switch can fail and cut A/c (USE A VOLTMETER) opens.
the clutch has its own relay, that is controlled by
the A/C amp module (better name A/C logic module)
it cuts A/C for many reasons.
we use a voltmeter at the AMP mod..

inputs that can stop A/C compressor, are:
1: engine overheat sensor bad. 0v , goes to 12v at 235F engine temp.
pin 9.
2: pin11, not 12v means dash lamp out
3: pin 5, transmission cut, or throttle pedal cut out (WOT).
4: pin 4 and 10 , evap core iced up cut, thermister sensor.
5: pin 8, lost 12vdc power.

The TCM cut out , to pin 5 is just for automatic trans, with TCM shifter electronics, it sends cut when the trans detects overload.
(hills? or tranny goes to limphome mode, {sick})
see amp below.
that is it, for electrics. answer my first questions for better answers.


629993be-93ca-4f20-9be8-afaaef186582.jpg

Mar 31, 2014 | 1994 Geo Metro

1 Answer

97 toyota camry both fans continue to run


2 fans behind RAD
is 1MZ engine, the 5s is different. 1fan

1mz engine has 2 switches.
the twin fan engine is 1MZ (bingo)
the 1mz has 2 switches. a real pain when know one posts engine.
FSM data: ECT switches.
sw1--opens >208f closes < 190f
sw2.-opens >199f closes < 181f

i see the PCM has CF cooling fan control too.
my online source has 30+ pages of schematics
and covers it all but skips the fan wiring.
on the right fender fues box is the 4 or more fan /AC relays.
if you unplug the ECT sw1 or 2, or the relays im sure
you will find how is missing up and work from there.

it looks to me , (A/C drawings) that the PCM and A/C amp can both
control all fans but has 2 ways to do that.
PCM can see engine heat (ECT EFI) and activate fans when engine overheats, (normal at long idle times as stop sigs)
and the 2 , SW 1,'2 temperature switches are a backup i think too
all this and is staged, first 1 fan then next,
too bad the fan relay schematic is missing..

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1 Answer

Cooling fans not coming on


Just had this same issue. I checked the relay/fuse box under the hood (drivers side next to battery). There are 3 relays and two 20 Amp fuses that control the fans. My problem was with my Cooling Fan Low relay, however, it was not the relay at fault, rather it was one of the pins in the relay box. The pin had flared a little and was not making good contact, and when I had the car idling, I moved the relay and saw one of the pins arcing a little and my fans came on. I was able to take a small awl (you could use a really small flat blade screwdriver) to close the pins sides in so that good contact was restored and it is working fine now. I am especially happy that my AC is working again, since when the fans go out, it cuts the AC at idle. If you have any other questions about my fix, let me know.

Brian

Aug 18, 2013 | 2004 Suzuki Verona

1 Answer

Ground terminal repair


Hi Dolphe, I'm guessing that you need to identify which of the five connections is the ground. Take out the relay and on it you should see a circuit diagram. The coil operation which operates the electro magnetic field pulling the switch, will be shown as a series of loops. It will be a normally open normally closed relay, meaning that when there is no power one of the connections will be connected and one open. When power is fed to the circuit the output switches from the one leg to the other. The ground you want is for the coil side of the relay, not the switched part. I wish I had a replacement scanner so I could draw it and let you see, but I hope you'll be able to trace through with the info I've given. Regards John

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1 Answer

How to test fuel pump relay


Your GM car or truck has a relay to turn the fuel pump on and off. The fuel pump pulls gasoline out of the tank and sends it to the engine. If the relay fails, the pump won't come on and the engine won't start. Since many things other than a bad fuel pump relay can cause a car to not start, you need to remove it to test it properly. Look for your GM relay in the fuse box under the hood that contains fuses and circuit breakers.
Open the hood of your vehicle and find the relay. If your fuse panel isn't labeled, look in your owner's manual for the specific location. With the ignition off, pull the relay out of the socket. You might need to wiggle it a little to get it loose.

  • 2 Look on the relay for the pin designations. Most relays have a diagram printed on the cover. If not, look in a service manual or wiring diagram for your GM vehicle. You need to identify the two pins for the coil and the two pins that the relay closes to turn on the fuel pump, usually marked "common" (C) and "normally open" (NO).
  • 3 Turn your multimeter dial to an ohms scale and touch the tips of the probes together to test it. The meter should read zero ohms.
  • 4 Touch the probe tips to the pins that connect to the relay coil. The meter should read between 50 and 120 ohms. If not, the relay coil is bad.
  • 5 Touch the meter leads to the two pins that should make contact when the relay operates. You should not read anything at all on the meter, indicating that the terminals aren't making a connection. If you read ohms, the relay contacts are stuck or shorted.
  • 6 Connect one end of each test lead to each of the two pins connected to the relay coil. Connect the other end of one of the test leads to the chassis ground and the other to the battery positive terminal. The relay should operate and you should hear a click.
  • 7 Touch the meter probes again to the two pins that should make contact. They should now read zero ohms, indicating that the connections are making contact. If not, the relay is bad.
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