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When you are outside your vehicle are you hearing a clicking sound and the fan going from higher rpm to lower rpm? The ac relies on air blowing over the condensor, if the car is moving that is automatic for obvious reasons. But when idling the fan should click into fast mode. If you hear the click then the fan is the issue or lack of voltage to the fan. If you dont hear a click than its the switch. A quick fix or at least test could be trying using the recirc button, this will limit the air flow from outside the vehicle and attempt to recool the cabin air (this is harder on mpg but usually effective especially at low RPM) I dont know what your exact make and model is but there is a long list of manufacturers recalling for this exact issue, usually due to poor design mechanics.
to convert from r12 to r 134 a the entire system has to be changed
that is condensor, compressor, evaporator, hoses ,the lot because r134a runs at much higher pressures than r12 ( nearly 3 times higher in psi)
it needs different gauges and has different fill connections so that the gasses cannot be mixed
to make it worse the oil used in the compressor is different because of the different gas and is not compatible with the r12
there was nothing wrong with r12 gas but companies and customers were "hoodwinked" into believing that the r12 was bad for the atmosphere and r134a was the answer
just as you have been " hoodwinked" by the person into getting a gas change over without being fully informed of what was involved and why
with r134a gas there has to be a fan in front of the condenser that works immediately the ac is switched on as the temp of the gas being converted back to liquid is much higher because of the higher pressure need to convert it back from gas to liquid
without that fan the system starts to circulate gas and so the evaporation of the liquid at the evaporator in the car is lost and no heat from the car is transferred back outside
what it means is this --- if you can get r12 gas , change the compressor back to an r12 compressor, have the system completely flushed, vacuumed down for at least 1/2 hour and then refill with r12
If on the other hand you have to use r134a because that is the only compatible compressor available then the evaporator , hoses and condenser have to be changed as well and that means a new ac kit basically
find yourself an accredited ac specialist shops and get quotes
I have a 2002 Chevy Express 1500 replace compressor Orphus tube accumulator new fan clutch hair gets 40 degrees when driving but when sitting at idle goes to 70 degrees I even installed electric fans still does the same thing and cleaned out all degree that is on the front of the evaporator coil what could be the problem
Hello Based on what you have said and my 30 years a Ford dealer tech I believe you have a slightly low AC system refrigerant charge due to a small leak at the AC compressor or the AC line connections. I would have a shop hook up a set of gauges to monitor the pressures at idle and see just how low it is. DO NOT ADD UNTIL YOU KNOW HOW MUCH IS NEEDED, YOU CAN LOCK UP THE COMPRESSOR.
It does not harm the AC but it raises your fuel consumption by certain percentage, it is actually recommended to run the AC even during winter time from time to time otherwise the compressor does not get lubrication from the gas and it can cause damage once on during hot weather.
Sounds like ac compressor is dragging.It might be that rpm is to low also.Step on the accelarator and if you have a tach bring rpm up to 700 to 800 in drive which is were it should run with ac on. With ac off rpm should read around 600 in drive.
are you referring to the windshield defroster? if so, then it is normal for the ac compressor to cycle on and off, the reason being that, during winter months, is helpful for the proper function of the ac compressor to cycle on and off so as to not lock up.
Clean the IAC. Disconnect throttle body air hose and you will see a hole on the bottom of the throttle body just before the butterfly valve. Spray throttle body cleaner down the IAC hole and then let it soak about 1/2 hour. Reconnect hose and run engine about a minute and then repeat this process 2 or more times. Toyota engines from 1997-2005 commonly have the IAC get cruded up with carbon as early as 35,000 miles. This is a sImple and cheap repair that many repair shops don't want you to know.