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it is a clutch issue and most likely a faulty clutch master cylinder or air in the system
while the sop make be correct in their "Good" statement, clutch slave and master cylinders come under additional load from a new pressure plates and tend to fail quickly
have it checked out by an accredited brake and clutch specialist shop and get quotes
if this problem has started not long after the clutch replacement, I would be suspecting the operation of the hydraulics as a problem clutch installation is evident from the first gear selection
This problem is indicative of a blocked compensating port in the clutch master cylinder not allow the fluid to return to the reservoir and allowing the pressure plate to engage . I would replace the master cylinder especially if the unit is more than 10 years old . Ensure that there is no air in the system first although air is indicated by a clutch pedal going to the floor and not returning or difficulty in selecting first gear.
It sounds like during installation one of 3 things could have happened. 1) The splines got messed up stabbing the transmission, or 2) the plate got bent itself or 3) the plate is in backwards Also If you do have leaking on your master cylinder then that will be your problem obviously. Your master cylinder is designed to compress DOT3 Fluid with one cylinder piston, against another cylinder piston which creates force against a clutch fork that presses your throw out bearing. Your TOB then presses against your clutches pressure plate, the pressure plate releases from the clutch disk which is transferring torque into transmission from your engine. Now you have gears within your transmission that are moving at two different speeds, and a synchronizer within your transmission slips onto teeth to match those two speeds and to lock the gears to a shaft and transfer your torque to an output shaft and then on wards towards your differential gear and thus to your wheels etc.
SO, if your clutch isnt being released enough to allow your synchronizers to lock onto the wanted gear, then its obviously not going to go into gear. You could try and bleed it one more time but it sounds like the disc is hanging up and not allowing the transmission to spin freely. Either the clutch free play needs adjusting (non-hydraulic clutch) or the pressure plate is not stopping the flywheel and will need replaced. Try adjusting the pushrod between the pedal & master to give you more clutch travel.
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INSTALL OIL COOLER
-clean the oil cooler contact surface on the oil cooled mounting
-install a new O-ring to the oil cooler.
-temporarily install the oil cooler with the nut
-apply a light coat of engine oi on the threads and under the head of the relief vale
-install the plate washer and union bolt. torque 78Nm (800kgfcm, 58 ft lbs.)
-tighten the nut,torque 8.8Nm (90kgfcm, 78 inch lbs.)
-connect the 2 water bypass hoses to the oil cooler.
If you do not have a spring press and are not trained on one, you probably should not do this as it may be very dangerous. I work with master mechs who still struggle with these, even though they have over $100,00 dollars in tools and over 40 years of experience. These are **** . If you need to ask over the internet, this may be very hard to achieve even with internet help.
Ok , I will try to guide you as simple as I can :
1- Remove the Heater / Cooler unit this is how :
* Disconnect Battery ground cable * Recover AC gas or empty it in open space * Drain radiator coolant only * Remove instrument panel for access * From under the hood disconnect AC pipes at the evaporator , by removing bolts , discarding O-Rings and make sure to install blanking plugs so that no dirt goes in. * Disconnect heater hoses from heater matrix pipes , by releasing the spring band clips and make sure to blank the pipes * From inside the car , remove driver footwell duct , by removing the screw and then removing the duct * Remove upper steering column lower fixing , nuts and bolts * Remove upper steering column upper fixings (Bolts) , and allow column to rest down o the floor * Cut cable tie which secures console harness to LH blower duct * Remove LH fan motor duct (screws) * Remove passenger side footwell vent (nut) * Cut cable tie securing console harness to RH blower duct. * Remove RH fan motor duct (screws) * Disconnect Heater/Cooler Connector * Disconnect drain tubes from Heater/cooler assembly * Disconnect A/CCM connectors * Remove evaporator pipe support bracket fixing. * Remove Heater/Cooler assembly fixing , by removing lower nut and upper nut * Remove tape securing RH rear footwell intermediate duct joint. Remove duct to clear access * Remove tape securing LH rear footwell duct * Remove Heater/Cooler assembly from car.
2- Remove AC control module
3- Remove evaporator pipe seal plate
4- Disconnect heater tempreture sensor
5- Remove footwell servo motor from heater/cooler unit
* Disconnect connector * Remove screws * Remove motor complete with bracket
6- Disconnect evaporator sensor connector
* Detach heater/cooler connector * Detach evaporator sensor connector * disconnect connector
7- By now you can see one upper and one lower case
* Remove heater/coolent unit upper case from lower case * Remove screw * Remove 15 clips * Remove upper case from lower
8- Remove evaporator from case
* Remove sensor and clip
You are done , make sure to replace all seals that you see to make sure that every thing is ok and you do not have any leaks after installation.
Reverse order and after installing make sure to do a pressure test to make sure that there are no leaks
One, take your brake fluid reservoir cap off.
Two, use a thin piece of wood to help you compress the piston on the caliper....do it slow. This way, you don't create a lot of pressure to the reservoir and it won't overflow.
Three, these are the steps to removing and replacing the pads for the rear. It does mention a special tool....but you can use a c-clamp for the same purpose:
Check the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If required, remove the fluid until the brake master cylinder reservoir is half full.
CAUTION Care must be taken when servicing rear brake components without disconnecting the parking brake cable from the brake caliper lever.
Remove the disc brake caliper. Support the caliper with mechanic's wire.
CAUTION When the brake pads are separated from the brake caliper, new brake pads must be installed. The brake pads are one-time use only.
Remove and discard the brake pads and spring clips from the brake caliper anchor plate.
NOTE: Do not remove the anchor plate guide pins. The guide pins are press fit to the brake caliper anchor plate. If the guide pins are damaged a new anchor plate must be installed.
Inspect the brake caliper anchor plate assembly.
Check the guide pins and boots for binding or damage.
Install a new brake caliper anchor plate if it is worn or damaged.
To Install: NOTE: The left caliper piston turns clockwise and the right caliper piston turns counterclockwise.
Using the special tool, turn and compress the brake caliper piston into the cylinder.
Clean the residual adhesive from the brake caliper fingers and pistons using the specified brake parts cleaner.
CAUTION Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other contaminants to contact the brake pad or caliper mating surface. Do not install contaminated pads. NOTE: Install all the new hardware supplied with brake pad kit.
Install the new spring clips and brake pads.
Position the brake caliper and install the 2 bolts. Tighten caliper bolts to 23 ft-lbs (31 Nm).
If necessary, fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean brake fluid.
With the engine running, apply pressure on the brake pedal to seat the brake pads.