Question about Ford Fiesta
Get the oil changed. You don't want water or coolant mixed with the oil as it will turn the oil milky and is not supposed to be mixed with oil.
Since you're always adding coolant - it must be leaking somewhere. This is not good. Hopefully, it is just a leak from a hose or similar ($). Look at the ground where you park. If it is spotty with marks - it may be dripping over night. Park in an area that is clear of these marks - or slide a large piece of cardboard under the engine over night. That way you can see if you have a leak dripping on the ground or cardboard. If it is not showing up over night - it could be a bigger deal.
It could either be a leak thru a cracked engine block ($$$ - $$$$) or gasket ($$) into the engine oil (changing it out with fresh oil will tell you if it is leaking into the oil if it turns milky in color) or into one of the cylinders and is mixing with gas while the engine is running. When this happens, the water is super heated and appears as white smoke - but is really just steam - at the exhaust pipe.
This is going to cost a few bucks to fix - but it could also be a game changer as far as whether you fix the car and fix it or sell / trade for another depending on whats wrong and how much the car is worth.
Posted on Dec 10, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello! There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) #1-15-6 that addresses electrolysis in the cooling system...If this TSB has been installed on your vehicle...There will be a tag on the drivers door with the TSB #...Also, a restrictor will be inserted into the heater core inlet...Lets eliminate this right up front...Check to see if this TSB is installed...
The vehicle does have a closed system...Electrolysis, coupled with air in the system is the likely culprit...Replacing the metal lines with rubber will increase electrolysis, which turns the coolant to a "goop"...Coolant flow is adequate when being pumped, but when you shut the engine off the goop blocks the system...Pressure is high...So coolant spews out...
I'll send a test to determine the level of electrolysis...You will need a DIGITAL multimeter...We'll fix the the electrolysis...flush the system...replace the thermostat...And properly bleed the air...Send comment about TSB and do yo have the digital meter...Guru...........Saailer
Posted on Aug 19, 2010
Testimonial: "No, TSB is not installed. No label, and there was nothing in the heater core inlet when I re-did the system. I own a DMM."
When your Engine Check light comes on, it means your computer has detected a fault and wil have stored the code in your computer. This code can be read by your local Ford dealership, using an OBDII scan tool.
An intermittent speedo problem is probably caused by an issue with the Vehicle Speed sensor (or wiring), which is mounted on your transmission case (see No. 7 in diagram below):
As you have indicated your vehicle is 2011, you should have this issue rectified under the New Car Warranty and repaired at no cost.
Posted on Jun 13, 2011
SOURCE: I just replaced a fuel pump on a 2001 ford focus now that is done the car runs at an idle really rough and dies down alot when i rev the motor it dies and shuts off but the car maybe runs for a minu
Hello, Is the car running better than it did before you replaced the fuel pump? I am just wondering what tests were done before the fuel pump was changed. There had to be a reason to think the old pump was bad.
There are several possibilities, one of the cheapest is to replace the fuel filter. If that does not help you should really test the fuel pressure anyway to adjust the pressure. There should be a fuel pressure Regulator inline and the test spout would be somewhere at the top of the fuelrail.
You may be able to borrow a pressure gauge at Autozone, Advance, or Oreilys as they have tool loaner programs. The Inertia sensor may trip on you and it would be good to bleed off the fuel pressure anyway when changing the fuel filter.
The fuel pump also has a Relay in the powerbox under the hood. It could be bad and overheat and kick out in a very short time. Then when the Relay cools down, the Relay could reset, giving you a small amount of fuel.
The fuel pressure Regulator and the fuel pump Relay are suppose to work in Harmony, in tandem and the Regulator acts as a buffer for the constant change in fuel demand. The fuel pump Relay could never make that many off/on cycles without failing.
If you have an Ohmmeter, you may want to check your TPS or Throttle Position Sensor. Disconnect the connector on the TPS and connect the Ohmmeter to the TPS side of the connection. With the gauge attached, move the throttle lever and see what Ohms change. There should be a smooth change both ways when the TPS operates. If jerky, replace the TPS.
Posted on Nov 19, 2011
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