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Fuse #24 in trunk has 320 ma parasitic draw. Was about 6 months finding out what was draining the battery if car set for more than 2-3 days.Want to see if I can unplug them to find out where the draw is. Thank you Jim

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  • Jim Goss
    Jim Goss Dec 10, 2014

    2009 Saab 9-3 XWD 2.0 Turbo L4-2.0LT (B207R)

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Make and model of vehicle?

Posted on Dec 10, 2014

Testimonial: "2009 Saab 9-3 XWD 2.0 Turbo L4-2.0LT (B207R)"

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Battery drains overnight.


Year make and model, and what have you checked so far ?

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Sounds like you might have what's called a parasitic draw on your battery. Parasitic draw is an electrical component staying on after you turn the car off (that isn't supposed to be staying on) and draining the battery over night. This can be caused by a multitude of things- the light in the glovebox staying on, an aftermarket accessory incorrectly installed to your vehicle, or malfunctioning, a factory component in the car malfunctioning and staying on, a power seat switch stuck on... the list goes on and on. The easiest things to check would be your dome lights, trunk lights, sun visor lights, glove box lights, and seat switches. Make sure the lights are all off after you take the key out and close the doors. Make sure none of the power seat switches are stuck on. If you can't find anything checking the lights and seats, you're going to need a digital multimeter connected to the battery to measure amps, to measure the actual parasitic draw. Once you establish how much parasitic draw there is (30 MilliAmps or less is acceptable), you're going to need to start pulling fuses one at a time to find out where the parasitic draw is coming from. When you pull a fuse and the parasitic draw on the meter goes away, you've isolated the circuit. Then you'll need to find what on that circuit is using power when it shouldn't be.
Good Luck :)

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A stuck relay will do this.

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My 98 lumina has a constant power draw from somewhere. I just replace the battery and had the alt tested (it was good). I have to jump the dang thing every morning but if I drive it enough during the day...


The alternator may charge fine but could drain the battery through a bad diode,have you checked the alt for a bad diode?Disconnect the battery positive cable.Put a regular 12v test light between the battery positive post and the positive battery cable.If the test light is bright you do have a drain,if dim it is OK.A dim light may mean the drain is internal in the battery.If you do have a bright light remove a fuse ,one at a time from the fuse box until the light goes dim.Once dim you have identified the bad circuit.If removing all fuses do not dim the light,disconnect the alt charging wire at the alt,if that dims the light,then you do have a bad diode.DO NOT create a drain(bright light) when checking for the drain by turning on the key or opening a door/trunk etc.
Also,do an overnight battery check by disconnecting the battery overnight,if things are fine the next morning after the battery was disconnected then it is a drain in the vehicle,if the battery is dead even after being disconnected overnight,,then the battery is bad.

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Something pulling battery down on 1990 olds 98


You may need to test for a parasitic power drain, for example a horn switch that is stuck closed causing the horn relay switch to stay on continuously even if the wire was unplugged from the horn.

You will need multimeter to test for a parasitic power drain.

1. With the key off, disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Connect the black multimeter test lead to the negative battery post, connect the red test lead to the negative battery cable.
3. With the meter set to the DC milli-amps scale note the current draw displayed. If it is over 20 mA, there is likely something drawing power that shouldn't be.
4. Leaving the meter connected have an assistant pull fuses one at a time (replacing them before pulling the next) until the meter reading drops. The circuit that this fuse powers is where the problem most likely is.

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I have a loose ignition switch that I believe is causing my battery to drain over night. I had my battery fully tested as well as my alternator and they both turned out to be good. So could the ignition...


Yes, the ignition switch could be the problem. If it's loose it could be leaving the switch contacts in the "accessory" position which will drain the battery.

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My sister has a Pontiac Sunfire. I believe the year is 2005. Well she's having problems that every morning a car needs a to boost her vehicle. The battery and alternator have been replaced. We can't seem...


What you are describing is called a "Parasitic Drain"

In automotive terms, a parasitic drain is an electrical load that draws current from the battery when the ignition is turned off. Some devices, such as the PCM and the radio memory are intended to draw a very small amount continuously. These draws are measured in milliamps (mA).

An abnormal parasitic drain could be something like a glovebox lamp, lighted sunshade mirror, aftermarket accessory, or luggage compartment light that remains on but undetected. Or an electronic component may malfunction and cause a parasitic drain that is larger than normal specification.

The recommendation for maximum parasitic drain is around 30 mA (0.030 amp). A typical drain today actually falls into the 7-12 mA range, even though some vehicles do approach the maximum.

Unfortunately, many mechanics do not know how to properly test for and/or track down a parasitic drain. You need to find a shop that has a technician that is familiar with this type of problem. The best way is to ask them specificly if they know how to diagnose a parasitic drain. If they hesitate, or act like they don't know what you are talking about, move on to the next shop.

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first, is your battery definitely good? a failing battery can make a normal draw seem to be a parasitic draw. secondly, do you know how many milliamps are being drawn from the battery while key is out of the car and everything is turned off? if you find that less than 50 mA are being drawn while key off, then this is considered acceptable battery draw. make sure no accessories are plugged into lighter, and remove the bulb from the interior light. if excessive mA are still being drawn now, then your radio (or wiring if not original) is probably the cause

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Repalced battery as old one had dead cell the new battery was fitted and went flat have replaced starter and alt but still get flat battery have check all fuses and all are in woking order and to stage...


check the parasitic draw on the battery. If the draw is greater than 40 ma, something is causing the battery to go flat before it should. Recommend you monitor parasitic draw using a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) and unplug one fuse at a time until you discover which circuit is draining the battery.

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