Question about Cars & Trucks
With the engine light coming on and problems after filling with petrol I suggest that the best place to start would be running the fault codes. Look for venting problems in the canister area ( purge valve solenoid and or air leaks)
Posted on Dec 10, 2014
You may need a shop to check the cam sensor wiring. Likely has 3 wires to it, a reference voltage (probably a 5 volt signal) on one wire, then a ground wire for the sensor, and then a signal wire to the computer. A scan tool that reads live data streaming might be used to check the cam sensors output signal to the computer. The cam sensor is used to synchronize fuel injector pulses with the valve train.
Posted on Dec 10, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Are you getting spark from coil wire when cranking? If so, check the cap & rotor. If not, the most common failure is the crank sensor. If you have a 4,0, you can find it on the drivers side of the bellhousing, in line with the flywheel, just where it's annoying to work on. There is a test you can make, but I don't have the specific test values or the correct terminals to check. (you can find that info in any half decent manual.
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
when your engine went into that 5 second sputter,
your computer or "PCM" did not get a constant signal from the crank or cam sensors that the engine was running.
These two sensors tell the computer what RPM the engine is turning so it can adjust fuel and spark.
Posted on Nov 21, 2009
OK, and now it looks like coachjoehutc is thinking the same as me. When I look up your car, it takes me to the Mazda Millenia engine--does that sound right? It only shows 2 cam sprockets, but maybe there's a gear in the head to turn the other cam? Anyway, I'm pasting a picture of the marks. There's a little tang coming off the head that marks the timing. Now unfortunately it appears the timing covers are the one-piece type that stretch all the way down (I was hoping there would be a section on the top you could remove to see the gears). I hate for you to have to take the whole front off and find out I'm wrong, so maybe you can just remove the upper cover screws and, if the cover is plastic, it may let you bend it out far enough to see those marks on the gears (????). If so, then rotate the engine to TDC for #1 (there is an ignition timing tab to use for that around the one o'clock position). Look for the marks on the gears--if I'm right, they will only be off the tangs by a tooth (any more and the engine wouldn't run). If you don't see the dots on the gears, you're on the exhaust stroke and need to turn the engine another 360. Is this all making sense? Let me know if you have questions.
If you want to see the instructions to take off the whole covers, I can send them, or maybe you can access them at http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152802610a5
Posted on Sep 08, 2010
The first thought that comes to mind is a high pressure oil leak. The
injectors have a snap ring on top that sometimes becomes detached and
it will create these symptoms.
When you depress the brake it sends a signal to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and the PCM increases the idle because it predicts you are about to shift into gear. If the truck has a high pressure leak inside the engine it will have a hard time building pressure initially and once the oil warms and thins out the High Pressure Oil Pump cannot hold the pressure and the oil leaks faster because it is thinner.
You may have a leak around the pump area which is under the turbo also. The IPR which is the regulator that controls the oil pressure may also be bad. It is directly under the turbo as well. The IPR is located under the turbo on the High Pressure Oil Pump cover. You stated the seals were leaking on the IPR itself? If the orings are damaged or if the screen in the end of it is collapsed or even punched through with a small hole it will need replaced. Screen damage is usually a sign of debris entering it from either dirt from a previous repair or something is coming apart inside.
Make certain you have clean oil and fuel filters. Yor may want to check fuel pressure as well. It should be somewhere around 55psi on acceleration.
Additionally, I suggest check for voltage at the connector on the fuel pump. The pump is mounted in the filter housing on the frame and the connector is at the front of it. The pink and black wire should have 12 volts with the key on for about 30 seconds. If the pump has voltage but is not running, then your pump has failed. If there is no voltage then check fuse 2.40 in the central junction box. This is the fuse that feeds the inertia switch through the fuel pump relay. I have included a fuse box layout and a wiring diagram (click over images for zoom)...
Additionally, will need to scanned the PCM to know if some fault code is stored there.
Keep us updated.
Posted on Oct 08, 2011
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