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2006 Jeep GC runs for a second and then stalls. Was running fine and engine light came on. Stopped and put gas in and pulled out of store and started up the hill. The Jeep started losing power, spitting and sputtering and then quit. We've drained the gas in case there was water. Computer is pulling cam sensor, but I've replaced that (3 times actually to be positive) and not that. Replaced the crank sensor as well. Will turn over and run if revving the gas, but dies within 10-30 seconds. Have no idea what is causing this. Any thoughts?

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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With the engine light coming on and problems after filling with petrol I suggest that the best place to start would be running the fault codes. Look for venting problems in the canister area ( purge valve solenoid and or air leaks)

Posted on Dec 10, 2014

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 5,317 Answers

You may need a shop to check the cam sensor wiring. Likely has 3 wires to it, a reference voltage (probably a 5 volt signal) on one wire, then a ground wire for the sensor, and then a signal wire to the computer. A scan tool that reads live data streaming might be used to check the cam sensors output signal to the computer. The cam sensor is used to synchronize fuel injector pulses with the valve train.

Posted on Dec 10, 2014

  • 12 more comments 
  • montehammons Dec 10, 2014

    Oops, don't know how both answers posted-never happened before.

  • jeff5may32 Dec 10, 2014

    check your timing

  • Brittney Brown Dec 10, 2014

    The connectors reading 5 volts, so it has power to the cam sensor.

  • Brittney Brown Dec 10, 2014

    The connectors reading 5 volts, so it has power to the cam sensor. Timing chain looked good.

  • Brittney Brown Dec 10, 2014

    The connectors reading 5 volts, so it has power to the cam sensor. Timing chain looked good.

    Acts air bound or.fighting for gas

  • montehammons Dec 10, 2014

    Check if the ground is good.

  • Brittney Brown Dec 10, 2014

    Yup it is- checked that

  • montehammons Dec 10, 2014

    Also check fuel pressure. Not sure what the spec is, probably around 40 psi, key on, engine off.

  • Brittney Brown Dec 10, 2014

    Plenty of fuel pressure

  • Brittney Brown Dec 10, 2014

    Appreciate all the tips! This is our only vehicle and with 3 kid's I need it fixed asap and cheap.

  • montehammons Dec 10, 2014

    Are you still getting a cam sensor code? Were the sensors you replaced OEM parts, or aftermarket? A lot of aftermarket (cheaper) sensorsomtimes just aren't up to par. Good luck.

  • Brittney Brown Dec 10, 2014

    Yes still getting cam code. Changed it 3 time's. Got two from Advanced Auto and one from Napa.

  • Brittney Brown Dec 10, 2014

    Changing the ignition switch today.

  • Brittney Brown Dec 10, 2014

    Not the ignition switch either. Wth!

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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SOURCE: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Won't start

Are you getting spark from coil wire when cranking? If so, check the cap & rotor. If not, the most common failure is the crank sensor. If you have a 4,0, you can find it on the drivers side of the bellhousing, in line with the flywheel, just where it's annoying to work on. There is a test you can make, but I don't have the specific test values or the correct terminals to check. (you can find that info in any half decent manual.
Good luck

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

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SOURCE: 1995 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 4cyl spits and sputters while driving

have you considered checking alternator and battery? just a thought

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

wracefans24
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SOURCE: what do codes p0335 and p0341 mean on 1996 Cavalier?

when your engine went into that 5 second sputter,
your computer or "PCM" did not get a constant signal from the crank or cam sensors that the engine was running.
These two sensors tell the computer what RPM the engine is turning so it can adjust fuel and spark.

Posted on Nov 21, 2009

jturcotte
  • 8270 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 ford probe gt 2.5l V6, was running at 45 mph,

OK, and now it looks like coachjoehutc is thinking the same as me. When I look up your car, it takes me to the Mazda Millenia engine--does that sound right? It only shows 2 cam sprockets, but maybe there's a gear in the head to turn the other cam? Anyway, I'm pasting a picture of the marks. There's a little tang coming off the head that marks the timing. Now unfortunately it appears the timing covers are the one-piece type that stretch all the way down (I was hoping there would be a section on the top you could remove to see the gears). I hate for you to have to take the whole front off and find out I'm wrong, so maybe you can just remove the upper cover screws and, if the cover is plastic, it may let you bend it out far enough to see those marks on the gears (????). If so, then rotate the engine to TDC for #1 (there is an ignition timing tab to use for that around the one o'clock position). Look for the marks on the gears--if I'm right, they will only be off the tangs by a tooth (any more and the engine wouldn't run). If you don't see the dots on the gears, you're on the exhaust stroke and need to turn the engine another 360. Is this all making sense? Let me know if you have questions.
If you want to see the instructions to take off the whole covers, I can send them, or maybe you can access them at http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152802610a5



6d96be8.jpg

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 f250 diesel....crank and crank

The first thought that comes to mind is a high pressure oil leak. The injectors have a snap ring on top that sometimes becomes detached and it will create these symptoms.

When you depress the brake it sends a signal to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and the PCM increases the idle because it predicts you are about to shift into gear. If the truck has a high pressure leak inside the engine it will have a hard time building pressure initially and once the oil warms and thins out the High Pressure Oil Pump cannot hold the pressure and the oil leaks faster because it is thinner.

You may have a leak around the pump area which is under the turbo also. The IPR which is the regulator that controls the oil pressure may also be bad. It is directly under the turbo as well. The IPR is located under the turbo on the High Pressure Oil Pump cover. You stated the seals were leaking on the IPR itself? If the orings are damaged or if the screen in the end of it is collapsed or even punched through with a small hole it will need replaced. Screen damage is usually a sign of debris entering it from either dirt from a previous repair or something is coming apart inside.

Make certain you have clean oil and fuel filters. Yor may want to check fuel pressure as well. It should be somewhere around 55psi on acceleration.

Additionally, I suggest check for voltage at the connector on the fuel pump. The pump is mounted in the filter housing on the frame and the connector is at the front of it. The pink and black wire should have 12 volts with the key on for about 30 seconds. If the pump has voltage but is not running, then your pump has failed. If there is no voltage then check fuse 2.40 in the central junction box. This is the fuse that feeds the inertia switch through the fuel pump relay. I have included a fuse box layout and a wiring diagram (click over images for zoom)...

zjlimited_1990.jpg

zjlimited_1991.jpg

Additionally, will need to scanned the PCM to know if some fault code is stored there.

Keep us updated.

Posted on Oct 08, 2011

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