Question about Ford Cars & Trucks
Clutch doesn't disengage
Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder first...if empty ch eck for signs of leakage at slave cylinder (inside bell housing) this is very common...remove transmission (very difficult on your back) replace everything inside....clutch.pressure plate slave etc. etc. if you have never done this before get some HELP! the trans is very heavy...make sure the truck can not move & remember to remove the shifter first good luck! ps...a service manual would be helpful
Posted on Dec 09, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
make sure fluid is full... then pump the pedal with it NOT RUNNING as many times really fast as you can.. try it after that, if it works then you need either a clutch MASTER cyliner and/or a SLAVE cylinder.. MOST likely being the slave cylinder. if the pumping action doesnt cause it to disengage then you have a burnt out clutch. The system is hydralic and takes regular DOT3 brake fluid in the small resevoir under the hood next to the brake master cylinder...
The slave cylinder being bad would mean you have to removed the transmission and install a new slave cylinder... thats the most common issue with those around that mileage...
Posted on Nov 24, 2008
good point but even if it is the cable one its automatic,hydraulic is non adjustable.if it is the cable operated one the clutch is mounted to the back of the flywheel,nothing difficult but you will need the round alignment tool,if its hydraulic it could have a dualmass flywheel which it is advisable to change thats a straight forward job to do is it a 1j chassis build 7th and 8th digit of the vin number
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
It may be a bad low pressure cut out switch. You would have to hook the system to a set of gauges and look at the pressures. The low side should cut out at aprox.20 psi. if the switch is bad the compressor will keep running and ice up. The switch is easy to replace. It screws into the dryer (big silver can} it has two wires going to it. It's a cheep fix to try at home.
Posted on May 20, 2009
Hi first lift the car and be sure to secure the car that it wouldn't fall when your under the car, remove the wheels then disconnect the negative cable from the battery remove the axles, remove the transmission mount, remove the starter, remove the bolts around the transmission housing once you remove the bolts use a floor jack and put it under the transmission then use a prior and separate the tranny from the engine and bring the tranny to the floor now you have the clutch expose remove the old clutch and pressure plate and pilot bearing now do the same thing in reverse good luck
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
It must a Diesel? Exterior slave cylinder? The double, or split, flywheel has is made of two major parts. One part is bolted to the crankshaft and there is a bearing that supports the other part of the flywheel that pressure plate bolts to. There are cushioning springs in the flywheel instead of in the clutch disc, it's not a very good set-up and they are prone to failure. "LUK Clutch Company", makes a solid flywheel and regular clutch for those trucks, there might other companies too. The clutch works the same way as any other clutch but, the reason it pushes hard is because the sleave that the release bearing (throw out bearing) rides on, is most likely galled or dry. That sleave is made of aluminum and they have a nasty habit of getting messed up, I don't remember if there are 3 or 4 bolts that hold that sleave on the front of the trans. At any rate that sleave is easy to replace once the trany is out of the vehicle, check the arm for wear and cracks too. If you don't want to pull the trans to fix it right, you might be able pull the boot out that goes around the clutch release arm enough to squirt some oil up on that sleave, that might get you by for a while.
Posted on Nov 22, 2009
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