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Year make and model? coil pack or coil on plug? If you have coil packs and just #2 replace the coil pack/s If you have coil on plug, Then you need to check the wiring. One wire will be hot(B+) with the key on. The other will go on and off to ground when cranking the engine. This is assuming you also check the plug wire/boot and made sure it isn't shorting out to the engine.
Well, since the spark to #2 comes from the distributor, and the others are firing, could be a bad plug wire or sparkplug. Also make sure there isnt anything down around the sparkplug that could be shorting out. I would go ahead with new plug wires for starters, as that usually gets replaced when you do the distributor and rotor. Inspect plugs too- they may need replacing.
There were a number of problems with V=8 engines in this Series. Some of the sparkplugs would try to leave the engine on their own. You need more testing to know what is wrong.
I will try to explain. The trouble Codes generated by your Onboard computer can be too general to identify a specific part for some problems.
There are 3 causes for a misfire. Fuel, spark, and compression. You can have fuel injectors which are dirty or have bad connections or coils and fail to open consistently. Spark issues are more complicated to diagnose as coils are now attached to individual sparkplugs(some models) and are triggered by Crankshaft and Camshaft sensors. A bad coil-pack feeding each bank of sparkplugs can short out adjacent plugs like #3 and #4.
Compression problems between #3 and #4 cylinders from a bad head gasket can cause misfires.
You can get a loaner test kit for the fuel injectors or use a test light or multi-tester. This will eliminate or confirm the fuel injector circuit as the problem.
There are cylinder balance tests that are non invasive when done with a good scanner. Otherwise removing the sparkplugs will be required to do a compression test.
Sparkplugs leaving the engine: They either unscrew or rip out the sparkplug hole. Loose plugs will misfire. BUT there is a problem with removing sparkplugs on these Series of motors. The factory plugs are 2 pieces welded together. Carbon buildup causes the sparkplugs to come apart as they are removed. Use solvent every 1/4 turn, let set for first 2 twists.
There was a Recall on these motors, but a Mileage limit and a time limit of about 7 Years was imposed. Check Internet for articles about all of these subjects, photos, etc.
Didn't say if you pulled the sparkplugs on 2 and 3. Are the plugs good and not oil fouled? Also, possible they got a crack in their porcelain when putting the engine in. Do a compression test and see if all cylinders have good compression, especially 2 and 3. Check the distributor cap and rotor for wear. Just throwing out a few suggestions, Jack. (Sure wish I had your webers.) Good luck. Do let us know the outcome.
A lean fuel mixture will not yield poor fuel economy but a misfiring cylinder will.You have already replaced the coils and the plug leads to the cylinders in question so they should not be an issue.Do
the codes still indicate a misfire on cyls. 2 & 3? If so have you
looked at the plugs? Has the oil leak around the plugs been stopped?
Are they oil fouled? Could the pooling oil around the plugs be shorting
the spark discharge to ground?or Valve Cover gasket is leaking. That's why you see some motor oil in the sparkplug sleeve (tube). removed the spark plug and My suggestion is to remove the sparkplug in cylinder 2 & 3 or
whichever ones that the scanner indicated as "misfiring". Take a look at
the sparkplugs and see if there's any oil around it. If you see any
traces of oil, that means your gasket is worned out and need to replace.Good Luck in getting your problem fixed. If you need any further help -
I'll try to help you the best of my knowledge and skills. You can repost
Possible that the cylinder 2 is not having a good spark or there is a fault in the cylinder. Remove the plug and see if there is a good clean tip. if not there is no firing . If there is oil smearring then the cylinder piston/oil rings can be faulty. Also the valve faults can reduce the compression if checked out to confirm.
This will give you a good indication of the fault and so it can be inferred.
If not change the plugs and reset the valve to rectify the fault.
#3 sparkplug is not firing at peak performance.
The engine block sparkplug hole had to be re-threaded in order to accept an adapter for the replacement spark plug. The sparkplug is sitting "higher" in the cylinder than the others (not as efficient).
It may even be a different sparkplug altogether in order to accommodate the adapter.
Add a silicone insulator gel (AutoZone $2) inside both boot ends of the sparkplug wires and re-seat them all.