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When truck is traveling in a straight-ahead direction,which of the gear rotate

A- differential pinions do not turn on the spider shaft B- differential pinions walk on the spider shaft C - differential side gears do not turn D - differential action is required what answer is correct

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Oh Dang a test.. Whoo hoo. So first there is only one pinion in a differential. So A,B,C is irrelevant. By your questions. But lets look at the questions. A- the pinion turns the ring gear, so it doesn't turn any spider gears.. B- the pinion doesn't come in contact with the shaft. If your talking about the axle. Or any other part, except the ring gear. C- The side gears have to turn, or you have NO movement, Forward or reverse. D- Look at C. So the answer would be D. But look to me for an ASE test answer. I could be wrong. I just look at the problem and fix it. I'm not really a mechanic... I just fix things.

Posted on Dec 09, 2014


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Turn off awd

You only have one option. (well 2, if you don't want to drive the truck) the front diff turns no matter what you do. Your pinion bearings are shot. The pinion will still turn when you drive it, even if the driver shaft is gone. Bearing and seal kits run around $300. For newer models. Older ones a bit more. Once the pinion and ring gear go away, add $200. Spider gears and such. Costs go up to as much as $1300. You can get a used diff for around $300. Depends on year make and model.

Jul 20, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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How do I remove the rear end on a 1999 ford F150

Turn the differential around until you find the small bolt that is holding the differential pinion shaft into the carrier housing, this is the shaft thar runs through the carrier housing that the spider gears rotate on. Remove the bolt and slide the pinion shaft out towards you, if you have limited slip there will be a metal spring shaped kind of like an S that will need to be carefully pried out using a screwdriver or pry bar. You will need to remove the brake drum or rotor depending what type of brake you have on the left side, then just push the axle into the housing about half an inch, look in the center of the carrier housing on the end on the axle you just pushed inward, there will be a C clip on the end of the axle. The C clip looks like a washer with a notch cut in it, remove the C clip using needle nose pliers or a magnet, the axle should now just pull out.

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How to replace rear axel wheel bearing and seal on 2006 jeep liberty renegade 4wd

its not just the seal.... i bet,

99% of seals that fail are , the bearing is allowing , out of spec.

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Removal & Installation

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.

  2. With vehicle in neutral, position vehicle on hoist.

  3. Remove differential housing cover and drain lubricant.

  4. Rotate differential case so pinion mate shaft lock screw is accessible. Remove lock screw and pinion mate shaft from differential case.

  5. Push axle shaft inward and remove axle shaft C-lock from the axle shaft.

  6. Remove axle shaft from side gear and axle tube.

  7. Remove axle shaft seal from axle tube with a seal pick.

To install:

  1. Remove any old sealer/burrs from axle tube.

  2. Coat new seal lip with axle lubricant and install seal with a seal driver.

  3. Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear lubricant.

  4. Install axle shaft through seal, bearing and engage into side gear splines.

  5. Install C-lock in axle shaft end, then push axle shaft outward to seat C-lock in side gear.

  6. Install pinion mate shaft into differential case and through thrust washers and differential pinions.

  7. Align hole in shaft with hole in the differential case and install lock screw with Loctite on the threads. Tighten lock screw to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).

  8. Install the differential cover.

  9. Install rear brake components.

Sep 06, 2014 | 2006 Jeep Liberty Renegade

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How to rebuild dana 60 front?

Fully rebuild, or partial rebuild? Pinion, ring, spider gears, pumpkin, bearings? Rebuilding it FULLY and PROPERLY is a big story, one too big to relate here, and it takes quite a lot of special tooling (differential spreader, dial indicators, etc). Please don't attempt this unless you have a well equipped shop.

If you just need to replace the spider gears, that's easy. Drain the oil, remove the cover, rotate the pumpkin until you can unbolt the crosspin. Push/pull the crosspin out, rotate the spider gears until they come out. Remove the side gears. Remove all four thrust washers.

Replace all four thrust washers, then the new side gears, then mesh the new spider gears with the side gears & rotate them into place. If the crosspin hole won't line up, rotate one axle shaft until it does. Install the new crosspin and bolt it in. Replace the cover gasket and cover, refill.

Going further requires a LOT more work, but you'll need to remove the spider & side gears first anyway. If you're replacing bearings or the pumpkin or the ring & pinion, you'll need a bunch of new shims to work with until you can get the ring-pinion clearance exactly right. You'll also need a differential spreader to get enough space to remove/install the pumpkin with its bearings in place. If you're replacing the pinion gear, you'll need to take some painfully exact measurements or you'll NEVER get the ring/pinion clearances correct.

Jul 29, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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I have a 1991 ford f150 302. When I turn something in the rear bangs and the truck hops kinda like turning in 4x4 on pavement. The bang is louder turning left than turning right. Going straight no...

The larger tires don't have a thing to do with the problem. I'm sure you have a conventional open differential. Your problem id probably with the spider gears in the differential. Sounds like you may have a chipped tooth in there. When you are traveling in a straight line all is good. When you initiate a turn the outside wheel turns faster than the inside wheel. If the spider gears have a broken tooth then this will create a problem when the left and right tires begin to turn at different rates of speed. If the gear doesn't mesh correctly and the tooth tips collide momentarily you will get the pop or a harsh jolt through your truck. You need to remove the cover plate and see if the spider gears are missing any teeth. Look in the bottom of the differential housing when you remove the cover. You will need to replace the spider gears. The bigger tires and heavier wheels may have caused your initial problem. When you place taller tires on the truck you place extra stress on the gears. If you went to 35"s or something like that you have probably broken a tooth or gear. Especially if you like to smoke the tires on a turn.

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During take off it seems the drive shaft make make a partial turn in the differential before the wheels turn?

problem would be in the diffrential ,bad ring gear or pinion ,bearings and or spider gears

Jun 12, 2010 | 1999 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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How to remove rear axle?

  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the differential housing cover and drain the lubricant.
  4. Remove the rear brake drums.
  1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.
Remove and discard the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
Remove the differential pinion shaft.
  1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the axle shaft grooves.
Remove the U-washers.
Push the axle shafts.
Remove the U-washers.
  1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
Remove the two axle shafts.


  1. Lubricate the lip of the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
    • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
  1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
Install the two axle shafts.
  1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves

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Replacing the rear axles on my 1987 monte carlo

You will have to remove the rear end cover then turn over by hand you will see a metal pin going through the smaller spider gears in the center there should be a small bolt there with a 5/16 head remove the bolt and then the metal pin then push in ward on the axles and a c plip will fall out only do 1 side at a time and do not rotate the axles other wise the gears will fall out and you will have another problem.

Jan 07, 2009 | 1987 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

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Grinding noise from rear of 1999 Grand Marquis

doubt it very much
the only gears in action are the axle spider ( spur gears ) and they turn very slowly on turns
pinion and crown wheel, noise are growls and whines depending if accelerating or costing and makes no difference if turning or straight ahead That should save you $ $1500.00 for a diff center that costs only $450.00
indicates wheel bearings or brake pads ( linings ) worn out and the callipers rubbing on the rotor ( drum)
I would be checking at the wheels and wheel bearings for the problem

Oct 11, 2017 | 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis

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There's a few more things to check out:
1. The track bar links, which attach from frame to the sway bar. Inspect the bolts/nuts to ensure they are really tight and the rubber isn't worn to the point of slack.
2. The bushings where the upper control arm attach to the frame. Inspect these for torn rubber/missing bolts. (These 2 bushings are on the fore end of the wishbone where you changed the upper ball joint.)
3. The bushings in the other, straight control arms that restrain the differential.
4. The shock absorber bolts/rubbers at frame and axle.
5. The u-joints on drive shaft.
6. The differential input pinion bearings. Raise vehicle and really yank/pry/push around the drive shaft and look for any slack.
7. The drive shaft at transmission. Check for any play over 0.020", side to side, up and down.
8. The transmission rubber mount.
9. The axle bearings. To check these, lift under axle, each wheel, and yank wheel fore/aft, up/down, and maybe use a pry bar. You're looking for axle bearing wear where the axle is supported at the outer ends of the axle tubes, just behind the brake mountings.
10. While the vehicle is raised (wheels off ground), chock the front wheels, and put transmission in neutral. Now check for significant slack when you manually rotate the wheels by hand, back and forth. If slack here (say, 10-15 degrees of fore/aft rotation on a wheel), then the spider gears are probably worn at the cross shaft in the differential carrier. Depending on the amount of slack, you can change the spider gears, side gears, cross shaft, and the associated thrust washers yourself, if you're a capable mechanic. This requires opening the differential cover, removing the rear axles (at least far enough to get the axles out from the side gears), remove the cross pin retainer bolt, manipulate the cross shaft out, manipulate the spider gears with their thrust washers, out, manipulate the side gears, with their thrust washers, out, then replace the above, with a 'gear kit', which includes the side gears, new thrust washer, spider gears, with new thrust washers, cross pin, and cross pin retainer. A 'gear kit' is around $85 for the Dana 44, 30-spline axle kit. While those parts are out, pry the carrier in each direction inspecting for slack in the carrier bearings and check the pinion/ring gear slack at that time. If you find a bad carrier bearing or pinion bearing, then you should probably find a mechanic to replace those, unless you're a 'very capable' mechanic. After reassembling the gear kit (side gears with their respective thrust washers, spider gears, with their respective thrust washers), cross pin, and retainer bolt, clean the sealing mating surface of both the axle housing and cover, remove the fill plug from the cover, apply RTV sealer to the cover (1/4" bead), attach the cover with bolts, replacing the tags in their original locations, refill differential with either 85w oil or 70W140 synthetic, as desired, approx 2.3 liters, replace plug, and check for leaks. Note: when removing the differential cover, remove all but 2 mid-side bolts, and make them loose. Then tap the very bottom of the lid towards the rear to loosen the cover, have drain pan under the differential to catch the oil. Then remove the 2 remaining bolts and cover. The lid projects below the housing about 1/16" and that is the part of the lid you want to bump on to loosen the cover.
11. Rear disc brake caliper mounting brackets.
12. The sway bar rubber mountings on the axle.

.. and that pretty much covers everything that can make noise on/in the rear end.

13. If a tow hitch is attached, check that for proper attachment.
14.Fuel tank loose, or fuel pump inside tank loose.
15. Spare tire loose, or junk in the spare tire carrier hole.
16. Loose junk in the right rear side compartment (this is actually a CD changer compartment, but if no CD changer is installed, then people put all kinds of junk in there)
17. Rear lift door. Open it a bit and check for side to side play. I've heard of terrible noise on my rear lift gate, and it was the rubber wind seal making a bunch of noise. I wiped it with a rag I sprayed silicone oil onto and quieted that down.

Aug 18, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Cherokee

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