Question about Cars & Trucks
Not much room to work on that one but try this:
This is a generic description of what most cars would be like.
1. Make sure the car engine is cold
2. remove the radiator cap. If you have over 60,000 mile I would replace it too
3. Depending on the radiator you may see a plastic or metal drain valve on the engine side or bottom of the radiator.
NOTE: Be very gentle when trying to open. Don't over-force it. If plastic they like to break.
4. If you believe that the valve is truly stuck then you must drain the radiator by removing the bottom hose. It will be messy that was so have a big pan under. The radiator hose may have a clamp you can remove by turning with a screw driver or nut driver or it may have the original pinch clamp type.
5. Once clamp removed from engine and radiator GENTLY twist the hose back and forth to see is it will release and remove. You can apply a reasonable amount of force at the water pump end but the radiator is most likely plastic and the like to break.
NOTE: If you cannot twist it off get a utility knife or something an slit it to surface and then twist to remove.
7. after all of that install hose in reverse procedure
make sure the valve is closed
install the recommended amount of the recommended antifreeze/coolant (your parts store should help with that)
start engine to make sure the fluid is flowing and after you see it moving install the new radiator cap.
I would let it idle for about 15 minutes looking under for any sign of leaks and watching the temperature gauge. If anything is odd stop the engine at any time and inspect for loose hose clamp or low coolant after cooling completely.
I hope I haven't missed anything..
Posted on Dec 08, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It is not an extremely difficult job. time consuming consuming... I've done a 3.4 intake manifold job, which in my opinion (plenty will disagree) is a little easier than a 3.1 manifold. there are just more steps involved with the 3.1 intake.(I haven't had to change the intake gasket on my 3.1 (yet)) If you haven't already, invest in a haynes or chilton manual, whip out your sockets and your gasket remover, and prepare to do battle...
oh, as far as how to tell before you break down the engine... are you having any drive ability problems? Surging idle, stalling... try this, take propane torch (DONT LIGHT IT) but open the valve and let the spray the propane around your intake manifold with the engine running. If the idle drops or the car stalls, there is your intake leak. That trick also works with intake cleaner too.
you may have to remove your push rods to put your new gasket on. Just loosen the rocker arm nuts/bolts and pivot your rocker arms out of the way. If you do remove your push rods, push them into some holes in a cardboard box so that you can replace them EXACTLY in the same position that you got them from. To remove old traces of gasket, you may have to get some spray on gasket remover, let it sit 5 min. then get at it with your scraper. (be careful, remember our engines are aluminum, you don't want to scrape too hard and scar the mating surface).
After you get all the old gasket off, clean the mating surface with intake cleaner or lacquer thinner. your gasket kit may have come with end seals. if it did not, remember to run a line of RTV sealant on the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads (before you install the intake gasket.)
When you re-install your lower manifold, coat your bolts with pipe thread sealant. when you install the lower manifold, tighten the vertical bolts first, then the angle bolts- it will keep the manifold from wiggling around on the gasket.
After you get everything back together and all snug, i would buy some GM top engine cleaner (liquid)(dealer only( part# 1050002) or some sea foam from your local parts retailer. I know this is to clean the carbon and sludge from your intake and your cylinders, but guess where the remainder of the solution ends up? Yep, in your oil. That should clean up any residue you had from the milkshake effect.
To use the GM engine cleaner, just disconnect your favorite vacuum hose leading to the intake (some people just use their brake booster hose) and put it down in the bottle of liquid while the car is running. (don't let the vacuum **** the liquid too fast, you don't want to risk problems. you may have to keep your hand on the throttle to keep it running. when the can is empty, let your car stall or just cut it off.
Let your car sit about 2 hours, to give the cleaner time to really work. Start your car, let it run for about 20 mins (there will be PLENTY of white smoke, your car is burning off the cleaner and the carbon).
Then change your oil. good luck and hope this helps.
Ok, you're going to need to buy, borrow, or rent a torque wrench. For 3.1 engines 1995 and earlier, rocker arm nuts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs.
The wire brush probably did less damage than I do on a regular basis with a gasket scraper :D so you should be okay. If you've already drained your oil, (which I suspect you have) then I would just use the wal-mart brand while you do the GM engine cleaner thing.
Don't add the cleaner to your oil, just let a vacuum hose, **** it into the intake. Plenty will get in your oil. Getting into your oil and cleaning up the gook is just a fringe benefit. What the cleaner actually does is it cleans up your entire intake path (manifold, injectors, & valves)... I think you'll be happy with the throtle crispness, once you're done with the engine cleaner.
Oh and for your coolant system, just get some Prestone radiator flush, and follow what the bottle says. If your system is really gooped up, Prestone also has a Super flush for a little extra :2cents:
Posted on May 02, 2009
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Posted on Jul 15, 2009
SOURCE: Automobile cooling fan problem.
There are two relays for the cooling fans, one or both may be bad.
With the engine running and the AC on, the fan should be running.
With the engine hot the fan should cycle. I believe the relays are mounted on the drivers side front fender on that model.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
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