Question about Cars & Trucks
Sounds like a loose connection. Does anything electrical come on? Radio, heater, head lights? What happens when you try to start with these on?
if they come on, but stop when you turn the key, it is a connection issue. Are the battery posts clean?
When you say battery is good, how did you check it? even if it has 12.5 volts or better, it could have a bad cell and voltage drops when you try to start.
Check the ground to make sure it is tight.
With out knowing what type of vehicle this is, some have a fuse link coming off the positive side (red) of the battery. Is that ok?
Posted on Dec 09, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The factory security light will remain on - this is a standard feature indicating the car is dead.
First, unplug the hazard fuze in the engine bay (this will reset the ecu and remove the flashing)
Next, replace the battery with a new one (or one with proper charge) - keep in mind a small battery will not do anything for these cars, the engines require a lot to push them over (it isnt a honda)
*Make sure to clean the positive and negative battery cables from acid
Then just start it up :)
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
Check the other end of battery cables, may have good connection at battery but not at starter or ground. (Always check ground first, often a source of problems.)
Next time it happens, try hooking up jumper cables and see if the intrument panel lights up.
Also, check for loose fuse, not properly seated fuse. And cables to fuse block. (That model may have more than one fuse block)
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
SOURCE: Instrument panel went dead
Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).
Posted on Sep 30, 2009
My 2003 dodge caravan would not start after driving about 1/2 hour. I stopped for coffee and when got back in to start it started I switched gears and it stalled. I tried to start again switched gears then it started but only for 2 sec. No clicking, no cranking sound just would not start but battery functions were great. Spent 2 days with a mechanic who could not resolve so sent to Dodge. After a day of putting wires back and checking out the problem they said it was the computer. Said that it was bad and could be replaced at no charge due to malfunction. Yes, it worked fine afterwards no more problems. They also said that some of the computers are found to be defective like this one so I hope this helps you in the right choice to have the dealer check it out if you are unable to get a computer reading and there is no obvious short in the system. Free sounded very good but as you know there is no such thing as really free as they got me for other things $350 worth. ouch!
Posted on Jul 24, 2010
SOURCE: instrument panel works off and
Do a google search for "1998 voyager instrument lcuster solder" and you will find an abundance of posts regarding the soldered joints on the main wiring harness connector on the back of your instrument cluster. If the behaviour is at all erratic and unpredictable, or hitting the dash makes the gauges come back to life, then you are about 99.9% sure it is the solder problem. It takes about 8 minutes to remove the instrument cluster (okay maybe 15), and about 2 minutes to remove the circuit board. By examining the solder joints of the main connector with a magnifying glass, you will probably see cracked or corroded solder on them. Briefly reheat each solder joint with a soldering iron to re-flow the solder. Your erratic gauge behaviour should now be history.
Posted on Aug 12, 2011
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