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Car won' start. Instrument panel is dead, battery is ok

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  • 5 Answers

Sounds like a loose connection. Does anything electrical come on? Radio, heater, head lights? What happens when you try to start with these on?
if they come on, but stop when you turn the key, it is a connection issue. Are the battery posts clean?
When you say battery is good, how did you check it? even if it has 12.5 volts or better, it could have a bad cell and voltage drops when you try to start.
Check the ground to make sure it is tight.
With out knowing what type of vehicle this is, some have a fuse link coming off the positive side (red) of the battery. Is that ok?

Posted on Dec 09, 2014

  • Larry Hulvey
    Larry Hulvey Mar 16, 2015

    Thasnk you for responding Tony, Yes I used a digital VOM to vheck the battery voltage, The starter will not try to start, the dome light remains bright, there are no insturment (warning) lights I have tried putting a battery charger on it, still nothing. I had a friend come over with his scanner and found a trouble code of 2F45. Please read my latest post on this from just a few minutes ago. Thanks

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CivicSI990
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SOURCE: car want start factor security light flashing and

The factory security light will remain on - this is a standard feature indicating the car is dead.
First, unplug the hazard fuze in the engine bay (this will reset the ecu and remove the flashing)

Next, replace the battery with a new one (or one with proper charge) - keep in mind a small battery will not do anything for these cars, the engines require a lot to push them over (it isnt a honda)
*Make sure to clean the positive and negative battery cables from acid

Then just start it up :)

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

  • 206 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 GMC Intermittent Starting Problem

Check the other end of battery cables, may have good connection at battery but not at starter or ground. (Always check ground first, often a source of problems.)

Next time it happens, try hooking up jumper cables and see if the intrument panel lights up.

Also, check for loose fuse, not properly seated fuse. And cables to fuse block. (That model may have more than one fuse block)

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Instrument panel went dead

Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 dodge grand caravan-car won;t start.

My 2003 dodge caravan would not start after driving about 1/2 hour. I stopped for coffee and when got back in to start it started I switched gears and it stalled. I tried to start again switched gears then it started but only for 2 sec. No clicking, no cranking sound just would not start but battery functions were great. Spent 2 days with a mechanic who could not resolve so sent to Dodge. After a day of putting wires back and checking out the problem they said it was the computer. Said that it was bad and could be replaced at no charge due to malfunction. Yes, it worked fine afterwards no more problems. They also said that some of the computers are found to be defective like this one so I hope this helps you in the right choice to have the dealer check it out if you are unable to get a computer reading and there is no obvious short in the system. Free sounded very good but as you know there is no such thing as really free as they got me for other things $350 worth. ouch!

Posted on Jul 24, 2010

2voyagers
  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: instrument panel works off and

Do a google search for "1998 voyager instrument lcuster solder" and you will find an abundance of posts regarding the soldered joints on the main wiring harness connector on the back of your instrument cluster. If the behaviour is at all erratic and unpredictable, or hitting the dash makes the gauges come back to life, then you are about 99.9% sure it is the solder problem. It takes about 8 minutes to remove the instrument cluster (okay maybe 15), and about 2 minutes to remove the circuit board. By examining the solder joints of the main connector with a magnifying glass, you will probably see cracked or corroded solder on them. Briefly reheat each solder joint with a soldering iron to re-flow the solder. Your erratic gauge behaviour should now be history.

Posted on Aug 12, 2011

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What causes dials to go crazy on instrument panel, then car dies?


It sounds like an alternator related issue. Once the battery drops below 12 volts it will do lots of silly things with gauges and thats why when you change it all works fine. Check that with engine running with a volt meter you have 13.8 to 14.2 volts across the battery, if not you may have an alternator issue

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Nothing working except clock and red flashing light on dash


take keys out of car with you and lock all doors, then unlock door with the key and retry cranking vehicle

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I jumped car off it crunk on its own fora day,then batt went dead again,this time it won't jump off. It wants to crank but won't turn over.


not sure what you said but.
seems the battery is discharging,? 12.6v is fully charged,
own a voltmeter?
try a good loaned battery , does it start the car,?
i think you meant?
i can jumper cable start my car at any time. (off another running car)
but after running my car, the battery discharges and it will not crank at all. right?
this means ,the charging system on your car is bad.
if the starter cranks great, then the engine is flooded or is in great need of a tune up (sparkplugs etc)
if flooded try the super secret in the op guide, crank with throttle wide open , this magic trick cuts all fuel injection allowing the flooding
to purge away, and eventual starting.
my guess 2 is the car wont start, so you crank the battery flat
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No pwer at all going to driving light nor the instrument cluster, starter turns but it won't turn on .and on the fuse block some of the fuses have no power running to them .the fuses are still good


Sounds like you have a power drain (small-amperage short) in the wiring going to your instrument cluster. The short has disabled some of your instrument cluster lights, but, since is has high resistance, it has not blown a fuse (since it draws to few amps). Once the current drain has wasted enough amperage, there's not enough left in the battery to start the car.
Phase 1: Interim solution: (1) charge the battery with your battery charger (if you don't have a battery charger, attach the battery with jumper cables to the battery in a running car - its alternator will charge your battery).
(2) pull the fuse(s) to the instrument cluster, thus killing power to the short.
(3) start and use you car without instrument cluster lights until you can move
to phase 2 of your repair. If you're not sure that you've killed power to the short, disconect the battery each time you stop the engine.
Phase 2:
(1) isolate the problem (the short) to one specific fuse, meaning one specific branch circuit in the car.
(2) trace the wiring from the fuse block to the instrument cluster, looking for
burn marks, bare wires (all wires should be insulated), or anything touching
a frame ground. Also look for moisture iintrusion - water can cause these types of high resistance "shorts" - with the symptom that the problem disappears after the water dries up.
(3) correct wiring problem found in step 2, plug in fuse. done
(4) if replacing instrument cluster, use instructions below.

1995-99 Models

See Figure 4
Fig. 4: Common instrument cluster found in 1995-97 "S" series Pick-ups.
(see illustration at end of message)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the sound insulators/trim panels.
3. If necessary for access, unfasten the steering column nuts and if necessary, the bolts at the lower flange, then lower the column for access.
4. Unfasten the instrument cluster bezel screws located at the lower edge of the bezel. If no screws are present, then remove the bezel by pulling it straight out.
5. Unfasten the four screws retaining the instrument cluster to the instrument panel, unplug any necessary cluster electrical connections, then remove the cluster.

To install.
6. Install the cluster to the instrument panel making sure the cluster is firmly seated onto the connector, attach any necessary electrical connections and tighten the cluster fasteners to 17 inch. lbs. (1.9 Nm).
7. Install the instrument cluster panel bezel by snapping it into position, then if equipped, install the screws along the bottom of the bezel.
8. If lowered, re-position the steering column and tighten retaining nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) on 1995 models. On 1996-99 models tighten the nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). If removed, tighten lower flange bolts to 120 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
9. Install the sound insulators/trim panels.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.

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4 Answers

Instrument panel went dead


Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

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