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How to change connecting rod bearings - Cars & Trucks

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Big job when conneting rod bearing are gone, crankshaft had to be change, you need a new engine

Firs you had to remove engine o?l pan (not Alway easy) and remove connecting rod cap Kind of car and kind of engine had help a lot!

Posted on Dec 06, 2014

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What's the torque on rod bearings?


Engine Noises ' Knocking and Ticking ' Common Causes

www.justautorepair.com/whats-wrong-with-my.../knocking-ticking
The following are causes of connecting rod bearing noise: ... Loose torque converter-to-flywheel or flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts will sound similar to bearing knock. .... I got a 1998 tahoe its making a lil ticking noise after I got unstuck on some ice ... 2001 FordTaurus with a loud mechanical noise that is constant when engine ...

Change 4.6L rod bearings with engine still in vehicle? 02 Explorer ...

www.ford-trucks.com > ... > Modular V8 (4.6L, 5.4L)
Aug 11, 2011 - The regular everyday rattling noises seemed to get louder than usual. ...So I dropped the pan and this is what I found: ... Is it possible to change the rod bearings with the engine still in the vehicle? ... If you decide to go with new bearings,torque your caps down on some plasti-gauge and see if you get the ... 7.3 engine r&r
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Rod Bearing Replacement
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Dec 28, 2015 | 2000 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Can I change the connecting rod bearings on a 1.8 2010 focus with no issues


If your connecting rod bearings are bad, you probably have some scoring on the surface of your crankshaft journals as well. If not, a simple replacement of the bearings should be a doable job for a mechanic.

Mar 19, 2015 | 2010 Ford Focus 1.8

1 Answer

Hchanging rod bearings


Are you referring to connecting rod bearings? If so, I hope you're tooled up and VERY mechanically inclined. If that's the case, you'll want to pull the engine, mount it on an engine stand, remove the bottom components (oil pan, oil pump and any other components that would interfere with a complete and open access to the crankshaft). It is possible to change the rod bearings without removing the top of the engine (intake manifold and carb, valve cover, rocker arm, camshaft, valves, lifters and heads), but I wouldn't recommend you try unless you're a real motorhead. In fact, I wouldn't recommend that you even attempt any of this unless you're very experienced at auto mechanics. Of course, if you're NOT talking about connecting rod bearings, you can disregard everything I've said so far, and elaborate on what you actually want to do.

Oct 01, 2013 | Toyota RAV4 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

1995 Isuzu 5500 box truck 6 cyl diesel. truck overheated and water&coolant ended up in the oil pan and the motor ended up locking down. Can only spin fly wheel 1/2 to 3/4 revolution besides changing...


The connecting rods are probably frozen to the crank from overheating or the bearings are frozen. Pull the oil pan off and inspect the connecting rod bearings for a blueish coloring which is a sign they overheated. If they are you'll need to replace them all and have the crank and connecting rods turned.

Mar 01, 2011 | Isuzu Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2002 Wrangler Sport. 4.0 My oil pressure gauge hit rock bottom, the engine made soon clanking sounds and died. I pulled the valve cover but dont see any bent rods. What else should I be looking for...


The main bearings and connecting rod bearings. The cam bearings. The wrist pins. These are the first bearings that get oil from the oil pump. When you take the oil pan off to replace the pump pull one of the rod caps and check for scaring and color change.

Feb 15, 2011 | 2002 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

Replacing crankshaft pulley/balancer assy procedure. 1994 Merc Topaz 2.3 4cyl.


Crankshaft and Main Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your and and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used. 2.3L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system and engine crankcase.
  3. Remove the engine from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the crankshaft front pulley, front cover, timing chain and sprockets, cylinder head, oil pan, oil pump and intermediate driveshaft.
  5. Remove the rear oil seal cover bolts and remove the cover.
  6. Remove the piston assemblies. NOTE: Mark the connecting rods and bearing caps so they can be installed in the proper cylinders.
  7. Remove the main bearing caps and bearing.
  8. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase, so No. 3 thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged.
  9. Remove the main bearing inserts from the engine block and bearing caps. NOTE: For cleaning purposes, the oil gallery and coolant drain plugs can be removed. To install:
  10. Wash the cylinder block thoroughly to remove all foreign material and dry before assembling other components. Check to ensure all oil holes are fully open and clean. Check to ensure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Clean the mating surfaces of the crankcase and each main bearing cap.
  11. Install the main bearings in the cylinder block. Note that the center front bearing is a thrust bearing and the front upper bearing has a small "V'' notch on the parting line face.
  12. Lubricate the bearings with clean engine oil.
  13. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces.
  14. Check the clearance of each main bearing as outlined in this section.
  15. After the bearing has been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings. Install the bearing cap in their original locations . (refer to numbers on caps). The caps must be installed with the arrows pointing to ward the front of the engine. Oil the bolts and tighten to specifications. Repeat the procedure for the remaining bearings. NOTE: Turn the crankshaft to check for turning torque. The turning torque should not exceed 4.5 ft. lbs. (6 Nm).
  16. Install the pistons and connecting rod caps. Check clearance of each bearing, as out lined in this section.
  17. After the connecting rod bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings.
  18. Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Pull the piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. NOTE: Guide the rod to prevent crankshaft journal and oil cooling jet damage.
  19. Install the connecting rod cap. Align the marks on the rods with the marks on the cap, and tighten the nut.
  20. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the side clearance between the connecting rods on each connecting rod crankshaft journal.
  21. Install the rear crankshaft seal and cover. Tighten the bolts to 5–7 ft. lbs. (7–10 Nm).
  22. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal.

Jul 26, 2010 | 1994 Mercury Topaz

1 Answer

Changing rod bearings


You'll find that once you've removed the connecting rod cap, that you can easily replace that one of course, so take a small screwdriver and use it to push up on the other bearing, on the side that doesn't have the notch, you should be able to also push up a hair on the rod to get a little slack, but the bearing will slide around the crank and you just reinsert the smooth part first, kind of just the opposite of what you just did to reinstall. center the bearing in the rod, pull the rod flush with the crank and reinstall the lower cap and torque to specificatioin.

Of course, lots of oil on the bearings & crank, if there is damage to the crank, you may want to turn it enough with the cap & rod not on it to polish it a bit with emory cloth.

Clearance shouldn't be a factor but you must torque to the exact specs to get the correct "crush" on those bearings and provide proper contact, while not being too tight to cause immediate breakdown by not letting the oil pass & lubricate the crank.

Hope that sheds some light on it. Crank bearings can be changed the same way.

good luck.

Feb 22, 2010 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

How to replace the piston connecting rod on a 1993 chevrolet corsica 3.1L?


If you need to replace a rod, generally you have a bearing problem that requires crankshaft removal/replacement as well. If you have a bad wrist-pin on the small end of the rod or the rod bent from hydro-lock and bearings are good, you need to remove the oil pan and the cylinder head as the piston/rod assembly comes out from the top.
If you have a spun bearing or broken rod, the entire engine needs to be removed, completely torn down and all passages flushed...far easier to replace engine with a good used one.
To do either, you will need a manual to guide you through the process (far too long to write out here) Sorry I need to tell you this but that's just the way it is...better you know before even attempting to do the job.

Aug 27, 2009 | Chevrolet Corsica Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I'm looking for the 2000 isuzu rodeo 3.2L v6 connecting rod bearings torque specs.


1. Check the connecting rod alignment If either the bend or the twist exceeds the specified limit,the connecting rod must be replaced. Bend per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.15 (0.0059) Twist per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.20 (0.0078)

2. Measure the connecting rod thrust clearance. Use a feeler gauge to measure the thrust clearance at the large end of the connecting rod If the clearance exceeds the specified limit, the connecting rod must be replaced. Standard: 0.16 mm - 0.35 mm (0.0063 inch - 0.0138 inch) Limit: 0.40 mm (0.0157 inch)

3. Measure the oil clearance between the connecting rod and the crankshaft.

    1. Remove the connecting rod cap nuts and the rod caps (12). Arrange the removed rod caps in the cylinder number order.
    2. Clean the rod bearings and the crankshaft pins.
      1. Carefully check the rod bearings. If even one bearing is found to be damaged or badly worn, the entire bearing assembly must be replaced as a set. Reinstall the bearings in their original positions. Apply plastigage to the crank pin.
      2. Reinstall the rod caps (12) to their original positions. Tighten the rod cap nuts. Torque: 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) Note: Do not allow the crankshaft to rotate.
      3. Remove the rod caps.
        1. Measure the width of the plastigage and determine the oil clearance. If the oil clearance exceeds the limit, replace the rod bearing as a set. Standard: 0.019 mm - 0.043 mm (0.0007 inch - 0.0017 inch) Limit: 0.08 mm (0.003 inch)
        2. Clean the plastigage from the bearings and the crankshaft pins.

May 21, 2009 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Torque specs


2002 2.0L Duratech.

Don't have 2004 2.3L

  • NOTE: Use new connecting rod bearing cap bolts.
    NOTE: Do not fully tighten the connecting rod bearing cap bolts at this stage.
    Install the bearing caps.
  • Rotate the crankshaft through 180 degrees and insert pistons 2 and 3.
  • Position the corresponding bearing shells, clean and free of oil, into the connecting rod and the connecting rod bearing cap.
  • Coat the inner side of the bearing shells with engine oil.
  1. NOTE: The crankshaft must rotate freely, if necessary check and adjust the bearing clearances.
    Tighten the main bearing and connecting rod bearing bolts.
    1. Tighten the main bearing bolts in two stages.
      • Stage 1: 25 Nm.
      • Stage 2: 60 degrees.
    1. Tighten the connecting rod bearing bolts in two stages.
      • Stage 1: 35 Nm.
      • Stage 2: 90 degrees.
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Apr 28, 2009 | 2004 Ford Focus

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