Question about Cars & Trucks
1976 chevy k10 350cdi base model no ac.will not warm up upper radiator hose gets hot heater lines both get hot but lower hose stays cold. changed thermostat filled till full ran air out of system no change.still blows luke warm heat. system presurizies cap checks out no clue what to try now?????
Put a new radiator in, you can get them on ebay shipped to you for under 100 bucks, thats with shipping brand new! better safe than sorry, and always check mixture of antifreeze, i am in wisconsin so i run straight antifreeze, i never worry about anything freezing up and i been doing this for years... if you are in a warm state, then mix as recomended
Posted on Mar 02, 2015
It sounds like you have a blockage in the system and by the description it sounds as if it is the heater core. The best advise I have is to pull the heater hoses off of the heater core and blow backwards into the core. Next would be to make sure the hoses both heat up, the top and the bottom.
Posted on Dec 06, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you should have hot water on all rad. hoses when the motor is running at a norm. temp. the water is not going through the heater core like it should. you have cutoff valve bad low water are a stopped heater.try a hoter thermostat if none of the above are true.
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
It sounds to me that you may have 2 problems. 1). Air Lock in the Heater Core. 2). Inactive Heat Damper in the Plenum.
But since you state that the Heater Hoses do not get warm that is indicative of an Air Lock in the Heater Core. This is a relatively simple fix. It is best performed COLD but requires a method of pressurizing the Cooling System. All reputable Auto Parts stores Sell and/or Rent Pumps that temporarily replace the Radiator Pressure Cap for Leak tests and curing Air Lock. The Collant Level must be filled FULL then pressurized and then loosening the Highest Heater Hose at the Firewall so that Air and a Small Amount of Coolant escapes. Once all the Air has escaped tighten the Heater Hose Clamp, remove the Pressure Pump, Restore the Collant Level to FULL, re-install the Pressure Cap and Start the Engine. As it Warms up you should be able to feel coolant running through the Heater Hoses and they should become warm.
Posted on Dec 07, 2009
SOURCE: Ok, g35 coupe 06,52k miles Had
Heres a couple of things you can check. Start your car and remove the radiator cap,(before it gets hot mind you) when it reaches norm operating temp, look inside radiator to see if water is circulating. If its not moving, its a bad water pump. Also, youre hoses should never collapse, if they collapse when they get hot maybe you need new hoses? Finally, if those dont work, flush out your radiator. Open the bottom cockpit and use a garden hose and let it flush out the system while the car is running, about 10 mins should do the trick. If the radiator looks clean inside then it doesnt need flushed.
Posted on Jan 04, 2011
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Temperature Control Blend Door Failure No Heat or no AC (dependes on
where door sticks)
all modern cars there is a tiny DC electric motor driven gear drive
that moves a plastic door that blends heated and cooled air from the
AC and the heater core, this is called (interestedly enough) the air
temperature control blend door actuator. The motor that moves this
door fails because the door starts sticking from warping, most common
complaint is no heat but it can be no AC as well. To replace these
parts (blend door and blend door actuator) you must remove the entire
dash from the car. Always have this problem confirmed by a dealer or
qualified repair shop as it is a very expensive repair.
Other causes of no heat in the cabin are engine thermostats that are stuck open (engine runs cold) or air bubbles in the cooling system.
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