Question about 1998 Lincoln Town Car

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1988 Lincoln town car front brake calipers lock up have replaced both calipers. It drives perfect for awhile then they will lock up again.

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  • not you
    not you Dec 05, 2014

    Hi John bucher, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? Is this happening with the brake being applied or just randomly without applying the brake?

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  • 34 Answers

When you replaced the calipers, did you also replace the caliper frame and slides? Start there. It is common in ford disk brakes to get "stuck" slide pins as they can rust inside the caliper causing the brakes to fail to release the rotor when you let off the pedal. Another cause is the flex line that connects the caliper to the metal lines at the body. As it ages, the inside of the rubber breaks down and collapses effectively becoming a check valve. Pedal force pushes fluid to the brake but separator spring pressure is not enough to make the fluid go back into the master cylinder effectively making the brakes lock up and bind. Try replacing slide pins if haven't already and replace the flex line.

Posted on Dec 05, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1997 lincoln town car 4.6 with a p0430 fault code

I will make an assumption here, we know what the root word means. This code was extracted from the computer by? What this is telling you one of 2 things: The Bank 2 oxygen sensor down stream of the catalytic converter (there are 2 converters, one for each bank of cylinders on the 4.6ltr engine) is bad and/or that the Bank 2 catalytic converter is no longer doing the job it was designed to do. Simply, Catalysts wear out. They are good for approx 100,000 miles (as required by Federal Law). Again, I assume that the reason the intake manifold was replaced was because it had a crack in one, or more, of the runners? (part that feeds the head of a manifold). It may have taken a while to find this as being the cause of why the car running incorrectly, maybe rough. This means, that during the time the car was being driven with the problem, the amount of unburned, or not within spec exhaust gases, coming off the side of the engine affected by the intake issue was higher than normal. This out of balance level of exhaust gases were being dumped into the converter on that side of the engine, thus causing the converter to have to run hotter, work harder, or even at the time the gas was being processed through, causing deposits to be formed in the converter, thus shortening it's life span. The Bank 1 side of the engine, apparently, did not have the issue and it's catalytic converter's life was not affected. I hope this makes sense to you.

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

Mr BrokRench
  • 1623 Answers

SOURCE: heat wont work 2001 lincoln town car cartia

Hello Callahan5922....this sounds like a stuck blower motor resistor. I assume the blower won't function in the a/c mode either? If you have a digital multimeter you can check this. I believe it's fuse #2....if the digital indicator goes up or down when you increase or decrease the fan speed thats good. Locate the blower motor resistor....you wil find it located on the fire wall behind the right valve cover hiding behind the heater hose, it's about the size of a cigarette pack. With the engine off, and key in on position, turn the A/C on High, and rap a tap tap tap on the resistor. You might be suprised when the blower motor takes off a runnin,
I hope this is the answer you need and i was able to help solve this for you. Good luck...

Posted on May 13, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: After replacing drive side caliper, both front

I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words. Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

  • 4793 Answers

SOURCE: When the anti lock brake light on my 93 lincoln

the abs light on the dash should come on when the abs is working (emergency braking)if it comes on when braking normally(gently)chances are a sensor is gone(replace in pairs,fronts & rears)
abs stops the wheels from locking up in an emergency brake situation,you will feel the grab-release,grab-release on the brake pedal......

Posted on Jul 16, 2010

Sir_Charles1
  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: THE FRONT OF Y 99 LINCOLN TOWN CAR SOUNDS LIKE A

one day I heard the same noise. the chrome on the wheel had peeled off, and was rubbing, other time worked on the brakes and bent the rotor backing plate produced a nasty sound, or you wheel bearing could be worn

Posted on May 19, 2012

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When the anti lock brake light on my 93 lincoln town car comes on, if I am pressing on the brake at the time, makes the brakes grab. It also happens just before the light comes on. I have had the front and...


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98 Lincoln TC,Cold starts fine ,runs good until warm, then shuts off. No codes,Cranks ok, have spark, PATS ok. No fuel pressure, cant hear fuel pump prime,New Fuel relay. jumped fuel pump - works. I do not hear fuel pump prime up, do not have fuel gauge, but pressing on valve in fuel rail- no pressurized fuel. Fuel regulator seems ok, not leaking / vacuum line dry as a bone. If I let it set for 15 min , it will start up again, but for a few minutes then dies out. If I let it set overnight it starts up perfectly and runs until operating temp is reached then stalls/stumbles, and shuts down. Vacuum is good while cranking, even with no start, Checked Inertia switch in trunk, it is not tripped. I have seen Ford TSB summaries' that mention issues like this , but I am not able to see to description. A point to add, the MAF sensor was cleaned, then I decided to replace it and did not make a difference. I do not have any stored codes, and the PATS is working fine, typical 2 second flash from and once key is inserted a 3 second steady light, then disappears. I have seen the TSB mentioning C103 Connector, it looks fine, I swapped out fuel pump relay with ac relay, still no difference.mention of wires around battery, do not know where to start. in dash service engine light and odometer is normal, seen other posts the say they only have lines, but mine is ok. the start of all of this , I washed engine with regular garden hose, ( not using pressure washer).also in the mean time, rear window defroster stopped working as well, can not say for same reason, but a mention.My problem started after washing engine. this is one of four Panther platform vehicles I owned with exact 4.6l w code engine, which I rinced down before. The only sensor I can think of is Oil pressure , or a corroded wire

Feb 27, 2017 | 1998 Lincoln Town Car

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