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Why does the current still come through even when switched off

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Current to what? Where are you checking? Is this for a vehicle! If so what vehicle?

Posted on Dec 05, 2014

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1 Answer

Why is the current still coming through even after its switched off


Current on what?? We are not crystal ball readers?

Dec 05, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Can the current usage by Speedo-Meter when car is switched-off which can drain the battery completely overnight


To check this remove the earth wire on the battery and connect an amp meter in the circuit. If the current draw is less than 1 amp ( even that will be excessive for instruments ) the battery should last 48 hours . I would be checking for a heavy current draw indicating a unit shorting out internally or a battery that has an internal short problem. Have a load test done on the battery to check this. Clocks and speedo and odometer always use power after being switched off as that is how they keep time and mileage recordings so the current draw is in milliamps. Even the ECM draws power when off as that is how it keeps the CPU program going and why sometimes the problems start when the battery is changed out or disconnected.

Apr 12, 2014 | 2004 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz E Class

1 Answer

Truck continues to run (engine) even after ignition is turned off


It is running on the alternator current. Check the wiring on the switch and ensure that the connections are right. also on the switch solenoid

Jan 21, 2014 | Mercury Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2001 Chevy lumina all lights work except the beak lights even after replacing peddle switch


To the best of my knowledge, here is how that works.
There is a "hot" wire that goes from the fuse box to the switch at the brake pedal. There is another wire that is activated when the push button is released by the brake pedal and the electricity then goes back to the brake lights.
Find a person familiar with a test meter, and see if there is current to the brake light switch. If there is, then see if the current is there (when the pedal is pushed) at the other wire. If so, go and remove a brake light bulb and see if current is coming to the rear of the car.
Be blessed.

Dec 14, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

98 corvette headlights not working


If you can verify current going out of the main dash switch towards the headlamps, then I would go relay hunting. My guess is the switch, since the brights and fog lamps work on demand (dimmer switch pulled).

Jul 09, 2012 | 1998 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

Something is draining my battery, there was a short in the headlight switch... i replaced it now my rear parking lights arent coming on i dont know where to start checking the wires..the fuses are fin


The most methodical way to check for wiring shorts is to start at the fuse box. With the ignition turned off, and the key out of the ignition switch, most circuits should be dead. So, using a volt meter or perhaps even an ammeter, pull out each fuse and test whether current is flowing over the circuit. Expect to see current flowing over the fuse that powers your clock and any receiver for keyless entry / remote locking remotes. You might also see current for one or two other systems that are still on "standby" when the car is powered off. However, you shouldn't see current flowing for circuits that could be on but aren't--think dome lights that turn on when a door is opened, or a cigarette lighter outlet that is still active if you plug something into it.
Checking the fuses in this way will show you the system that's got an unexpected drain. I know you suspect something involving the headlight switch, but you might have shorted an unrelated system when you were installing the switch. That's very hard to tell from a physical inspection.
Once you have identified a circuit with unexpected current drain, check your owner's manual or maybe even in the inside of the fuse box cover to see which systems that fuse covers. Unplugging one component at at a time (i.e., radio and 12v outlet are often on the same fuse; dome light is often on the same fuse with other components, etc.), check to see whether the current drain is the same or different. Eventually, you will identify the component that is causing the problem.
At this point, I would suggest charging your battery, disabling your suspected component if you can, and letting things rest a day. Did this fix the battery drain? If so, you're definitely on the right track. If not, you may have found a lesser problem you didn't even know you had.
This is only a starting point for your troubleshooting, but I hope it gets you pointed in the right direction. Good luck!

Mar 09, 2012 | 1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager

2 Answers

I turn the key and get all battery power to sterio and everything but when i turn the key to start it nothing happens the engine doesnt even try to turn over... would i need to just get a new starter or...


If you hear a click then nothing happens then 1- Either the battery is weak. Stereo doesn't need a lot of current. You can turn on the head light and horn at the same time so see if your battery could deliver all current needed to justify the battery. 2- Or your starter solenoid is bad, its poor contacts inside could not carry enough current to the starter to turn over. If you hear nothing, everything is quite then there is a problem with the safety switch at your transmission shifter. This switch is to recognize the Park position before enabling a circuitry to the solenoid starter.

Nov 22, 2009 | 1998 Volkswagen Jetta

2 Answers

Need to wire a toggle switch to the horn for it


Assuming you don't have any other problems to deal with like a bad horn relay, you would want to intercept the horn signal wire going up into the steering column and wire that to the switch such that it gets grounded by the switch when you want the horn to honk. Since a toggle switch could be left on for an extended amount of time, I would think a momentary switch of even a push button type might be a better choice?

The horn relay is used to allow for large current flow going to the horn itself without forcing that same amount of current to flow thru the horn switch in the steering wheel for example, which might be easily burnt out without the relay's buffering effects. Even a large macho toggle might not be able to handle a horn's current if used regularly. The load for a raw horn is highly inductive (arcing,sparking) in addition to being a very large current draw of 10 amps or better, both conditions tend to make kindling of everything but the most robust switches. Those switches when you do find them cost the big dollar$.

You might just need a horn relay, they do have a lot of work to do - they are allowed to wear out occasionally considering their use.

Aug 28, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Caravan

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