Question about 2000 Mitsubishi Galant
Battery Load check: OK Alternator: OK - I've taken it recently to have a crankshaft position sensor replaced, but doubt there's any drain there. If I disconnect the battery, it will start the car relatively strong when left for many hours. Is there any home method I can use to locate the drain?
The problem is a the battery is gubbed
nowhere did you mention replacing it
or the voltage regulator /rectification is bad
so... start the engine and check at the battery for ~13.8v DC
perhaps the alternators rectifier has a failed diode
so a few things can rule this out
if it had a failed diode then you would get like around 1.2v less not enough to charge a lead acid
it takes 13.8v constant voltage to charge it properly
so this is an easy one
check at the starter motor and all battery connections and leeds
take them off clean them with emery paper wet and dry and bolt them up tight with a blob of grease added to each
check the negative chassis connection from the battery
the rest is some leekage perhaps as the last post made says you need then to start to measure what current is actualy drawn when its doing nothing
to do this turn off your car as normal
use a digital volt multimeter
set it to current and connect the meters two probes in series with the battery
set the meter first to DC current range
then you can see what actual level of current is drawn from the battery
hope this helps
you can look on google and youll find 'how to measure DC current using a multimeter' string
youll get good tips if your not sure....
Posted on Dec 04, 2014
The first thing I always suspect is any kind of aftermarket accessory, like an installed alarm or stereo. If there are no such accessories, then do the old remove fuse trick. Remove one fuse from the panel (remember which one) and test the car after several hours. If the car still doesn't start then you know its probably not that circuit. Next remove the next fuse and again test the car after a few hours. You will have to do this for every fuse until you find the one that allows the car to start without a problem. Once you find out which fuse is the one which is allowing the car to start, you need to find out what is on that circuit and test / and or remove those items separately. I had a Ford Taurus that I did this with and finally found out that it was the wiper motor that was intermittently draining the battery. (after removing the wiper fuse, the car started the next morning). No one else, not even the local Ford dealer was able to figure this out.
Posted on Dec 04, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is an alternator fuse located on the positive battery clamp or in the fuse block under the hood. if it is part of the positive battery clamp it is a dealer only part and will run $10 to 20 dollars. If it is in the fuse block you should be able to get one at the auto store and modify it to slide in easily. Get a flash light and check all of your fuses carefully. The blown fuse may be hard to spot. The design of the car lets the battery go dead with out even turning on the charge light on the dash to let you know you are not charging the battery.
Posted on Dec 16, 2010
When a car battery gets low, the windows won't necessarily move extremely slow - you may still have functionality, but not enough power to start the vehicle. Charge up the battery or replace it if it is more than 4-5 yrs old. As for the screeching sound, its possible a loose alternator belt could cause that - if the belt is too loose the alternator might not be charging the battery properly. Another possibility is the alternator is binding and that can cause the screeching too. Remove the drive belt and try to rotate the alternator by hand - if there is excessive resistance you might be looking at a new alternator too. Most automotive parts stores will test your battery and charging system for free if you ask them.
Posted on Mar 15, 2011
Hello. One way to check if it is working is when you try to start the car does the needle move on you tac? If not then your crank sensor is more then likely the problem. It is located on the backside of the engine under the intake manifold. If is in about the center of the block. There will be a 10mm bolt holding the sensor in. If you decide to change it yourself (not to terrible of a job) unplug the sensor, remove the bolt and spin it back and forth slightly while pulling it out. It may be stoburn and you might have to work at it for a little bit (not a done of room) but it will come. When it's out the sensor will be shaped kind of like an L. I have changed a few of these over time and they can be a little stoburn. To install just reverse the process.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
Sounds like either the a/c relay is bad or a/c compressor clutch is not disengaging. Look on the compressor for an electrical connector, and if you can, unplug it. That should stop the battery drain. I would suggest taking the car into a good a/c shop to have the compressor looked at. The clutch can be replaced without having to buy a new compressor.
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
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