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On my 2001 chevy silverado extended cab the fro t drive shaft has lost the bearing on the rear u joint and it now slaps metal when Im driving, how do I remove this drive shaft ?

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Undo the cap bolts for the "u" joints at both ends of the shaft and take it out If it is held in with a u section strap around the bearing cap then remove them and do the same for the other end.

Posted on Dec 04, 2014

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Removing drive shaft from 2001 Dodge Dakota


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I'm guessing your you are referring to the drive shaft center support bearing. Remove u-joint 4 bolts at rear diff., then 2 bolts for center support. Slide driveshaft assembly out of trans. and lay on ground. On either side of the center support, make alignment marks on front and rear half of drive shafts with a crayon or tape (very important for re-assembly). Slide rear half off. Press out center support. Clean sleeve with emery cloth or 400 grit sand paper. Press on new center support, lube splines and reconnect drive shaft halves making sure alignment marks meet. Install assembly and torque bolts.

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1999 chevy silverado z71 5.3 ujoints just got changed loud squeal in back sound like center of drive shaft / no vibration when driving, no play up/down side to side on drive shaft,is it in the rearend or...


i would suspect bad driveshaft hanger bearing - to confirm, jack up back end of truck and hold up with jack stands. have someone in the truck to accelerate to the speed where you hear the noise, listen for the noise - a stethescope is very useful for this. good luck!

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I have 96 chevy silverado extended cab with a vibrationfrom the differential. I found a 2000 gmc Envoy rear end 5 lug. will this bolt up?


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8 months of trauma! The original d/s has a double Cardan style...other wise known as a constant velocity u-joint, at the pinion end/rear end connection. My Ford dealer had it to the d/shaft re-build place and they did a new d/s w/single u-joint at the rear end. WRONG! The OEM shaft has a needle zerk on the Cardan joints and most shops don't know about it and don't see it and so it never gets grease. What you need to do is just re-build the original c/v Cardan and the prob. goes away. My dealer finally installed a double/double Cardan d/s!!! $1200. NO CHARGE TO ME! Problem solved! The OEM as I recall, has a double cardan at the rear end only. This one has a double at the hanger bearing and at the rear end!! I also installed the S-10 extended cab drive shaft alignment kit from Stealth Conversions. They claim even if you have the double cardan this kit will make it last a lot longer. $42. for the kit and $200 for the install by my gar. guy. I would have done it myself but the bolts on the rear end needed to be heated to get them off and install the 2 degree shims. No way I'm laying on the floor w/a torch 2 inches from my nose to do that!! Now it is as smooth as silk! What an ordeal! This is the ONLY way to solve the vibration problem. You need,at minimum, the OEM double cardan (C/V) system at the pinion connection. You probably don't need the double at the hanger bearing. Hope this helps.

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