Question about Cars & Trucks
Does anyone know if there is a manual rack and pinion that would work on a 1994 Toyota camry that wouldn't require heavy modifications?
Talk to a steering specialst shop about how to remove the valve assembly from the powered system to allow the rack to move manually. failing that stick with toyota products and go back a few years before power steering was the norn.
Posted on Dec 06, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
222,000 miles? that's a good vechile so far! anyways, do some price checking. new rack and pinions come with the inner tie rods. so if it's like 50 more for the whole assembly, i would but if not, it's up to you. i've changed some rack and pinions on vechiles that were under 150000 due to major leaking. and if you put just new rods in, if it dose start leaking later, you'll get new inner rods again with new system you'll just be paying labor and alingment charges again. so again, my OPINION is if I'm going to keep it for a while and if it's COST effective, just to do the whole unit.
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
1. Look up along the lower radiator hose. It will plug into a metal
tube on the engine side. Follow the metal tube. It goes to a housing.
The housing is kind of buried in the driver's side of the engine. There
are 2 smaller coolant tubes plugged in above it. You do not need to
touch those, although it looks at first glance like you do.
2. Disconnect lower radiator hose at the metal tube.
3. Disconnect fan switches 1 and 2. These are on elecrtical harnesses going to this housing.
4. Disconnect a sensor on the front of the engine, just above the lower hose. I believe this is the knock sensor, but I'm not sure.
5. Now for the fun part. There are 3 bolts holding this housing on. You can see one at the top. There are 2 others underneath it, such that the bolts form a triangle pattern. You will have to get the bottom 2 out by feel (blind). They are 10mm.
6. Also, if you look to the front of the housing, you will note another 10mm bolt on the front holding down a black plastic leg. This is a wiring harness duct. Remove that bolt. Trace back along the duct. There is one more bolt on the driver's side retaining the duct. There is also one on the back of the engine at the firewall / driver's side. Remove these 2 as well.
7. There is a 12mm bolt holding the metal tube from that housing to the driver's side. Remove that bolt.
8. Gently pry the plastic wiring duct toward driver's side, and back toward firewall. You have just enough to get it off of the stud on the thermostat housing.
9. Now you can pull the housing. It will not come all the way out. It will come loose enough to give you just enough clearance to remove the thermostat (barely). Once you remove the thermostat, you have to pass it downward and toward the firewall to fumble it out.
By the way, you will notice that the metal tube is kind of wiggly in the thermostat housiung. This is normal.
10. Pass the new thermostat in the same way you got the old one out. Make sure when you plug it in that it has an air bleed poppet, and that this poppet is facing up.
11. Reassemble by reversing removal. Getting the nuts / bolts back in blind is... fun...
I don't know the torque spec. You can get a torqure wrench in there barely if you get creative with extensions, knuckles, etc. I wouldn't go abouve 8-10 ft-lb.
Posted on May 01, 2009
The rear wheel bearing on a toyota camry is replaced by replacing the wheel bearing and hub as a unit. this is a design change as compare to older models with two piece wheel bearings. Scotch drive wheels. Remove rear wheel. Remove rear brake drum. (note: if emergency brakes are applied you will not be able to remove brake drum) Remove dust cap and hub retaining nut. Hub should slide off as unit. Replace hub with new unit. Installation is reverse of removal.
Posted on May 30, 2009
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