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Using starting fluid on a deisel engine will cause: Blowing the headgasket, blowing a prechamber out of the head, bending a rod, cracking a piston, backfiring into the intake, and fire. Any of the above may have happened. I like to use wd-40 as starting fluid in my deisel engine. Starting fluid is bad for a deisel engine, espically the newer ones.
in front of the deisel pump the gear wheel is slightly cut/chip mark to the back of it take it out, and place it on t or n (t for turbo n for non turbo) .normal timming is good .If not hand turn until #1 piston is up and #1 cam shaft lobes are not touching cup & shim then set pump to desired mark
They need to be bleed again all four wheels but your vacuum pump may be bad since diesels don't have vacuum then have to have a pump, check that the booster one way check valve is good if you can blow thew it both ways it's bad, to bleed start from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder pump the brakes 5 times and hold down then open the bleed valve keep doing this until you get clear fluid out of each wheel once you have done that if it is still mushy and you know you have vacuum re bleed with engine running this will help push more out with power assist. most like the hard brake pedal had to do with no vacuum check out the pump. You may also have to reset the 2 way check valve if you need help with this let me know.
The slave cylinder is replaced simply by removing 2 14mm or 12m nuts on the bottom side of the trans. There is no need for transmission removal.
Remember to point out to the shops that there are two bleeding points for the clutch. On the slave cylinder itself and under the hood on the passenger side. Its right behind the windshield washer fluid fill spot. Sometimes the bleeder is covered with a black cover.
The clutch slave cylinder on this model is located inside the transmission bell housing. You would have to pull the tranny to see it.
Bleeding the slave cylinder is a fairly simple process.
Underneath the vehicle on the driver side you will see two hydraulic lines going into the transmission where the tranny connects to the engine. If you have trouble locating just follow the hydraulic line from the master cylinder on the firewall.
One of these lines is actually sticking out of the tranny and has a bleeder valve on the end.
You will need a 9/16 box end wrench and a 5/16 or 1/4 inch box end wrench and someone with you to press the clutch pedal while you are under the vehicle.
1. Top off the master cylinder with clean brake fluid. Also, MAKE SURE you keep the fluid level in the master cylinder topped off during this process. You may need to have a second helper to take care of this so you don't have to keep climbing out from underneath.
2.Hold the line with the 9/16 and loosen the bleeder valve a couple turns or until fluid begins to drain. Have someone SLOWLY depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it down to the floor until you tighten the bleeder valve back up.MAKE SURE YOU ARE OUT OF THE WAY OF THE SQUIRTING FLUID WHEN THE PEDAL IS DEPRESSED!!
3. Once you are sure the valve is tight, have them pump the clutch pedal a couple times . Repeat step two until the pedal has a full stroke.
do not understand you what you mean. assuming your car was ok before you changed f/filter you need to bleed the fuel system of air. esiest to do would be to loosen fuel line at the injectors and have assistant crank the engine while you observe for clear fuel leak without any air bubbles from fuel line.tighten fuel lines and start engine. might have to repeat a few times. good luck.