Help the timing marks on my 2.5i defy logic tdc is coming up on no three piston according to the mark on my front end pulley! why?
I have tried to line the timing mark's on the flywheel and tdc to no 1 but keep getting no 3 as tdc this is a 5cyl 2.5i motor I saw a post showing no three as one on your site but cannot find it again it was a diagram showing no 3 as tdc submitted as a nswer to a previous question same as this
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I'm presuming all the freelander range have the same type of set up for the timing. So when you want to work on your freelander changing cambelt a and stuff you set the timing up on to the marks that you see I front of you but on freelander neither piston is at the top or the bottom infact all pistons should be half way up or halfway down the bores which ever choice you want . But take a look at the crankshaft pulley wheel there is so many little bolts holhing it on four or six I'm not sure. If you undo these bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley wheel hey presto there should be another timing mark on the gear behind the pulley wheel it is this timing mark that will get no1 piston at tdc as the timing on freelanders must be spot on
I've worked on freelanders loads of times presuming yours is the petrol model when you set the timing up on these when working on them. all pistons are at the halfway mark in the bores this is so no pistons strike the valves when taking the cylinder head off. So the actual mark if you want it set at tdc you need to take off the crankshaft pulley wheel it won't do any harm just four little bolts if I recall when this crankshaft wheel is out of the way you still have the gear there what the cambelt sits round. It is on that gear where the true mark is to set up the timing with no1 piston at tdc. Infact the pulley wheel needs to come off when changing a cambelt make sure the timing marks are set up properly check twice if nessessary then turn engine over one revolution by hand slowly to make sure no internal parts are hitting and timing marks come back together
If you know the engine's number one cylinder location, you need to put it at TDC of the compression stroke, then you lower the distributor in so that the rotor ends up pointing to the #1 spark plug wire tower on the distributor cap. As you drop it down, the gear on the dist. shaft will mesh with another gear and turn slightly. You want it ending up pointing directly to #1. Get it seated, then you can start the engine and set the timing according to specs with a timing light.
To find TDC of the compression stroke (as opposed to TDC of the exhaust stroke), pull the #1 spark plug out. Put a socket and wrench on the crankshaft pulley and turn it in its normal direction (clockwise), with your finger over the spark plug hole. As the number one piston is rising on its compression stroke, you can feel the pressure build up under your finger. You won't feel any pressure as the piston rises on the exhaust stroke, only on the compression stroke. So when you feel pressure, you know the piston is rising on its compression stroke, and you can turn the crank on around until the piston is at top of its travel-the notch on the crank pulley will now line up with the zero degrees mark on the pointer scale beside the pulley. There, TDC of compression stroke. Now drop in the distributor so the rotor tip lines up with the #1 spark plug tower on the dist. cap.
To find TDC remove number 1 plug and place the crank pulley timing mark on tdc . Using a piece of soft wire etc move the crank back and forth and determine when the piston is not moving That will be TDC no 1 piston It should line up with the TDC and mark on the pulley.
Well, since it won't run, you cant check timing with a light. You could try static timing: Bring #1 piston to TDC by mark on scale by crank pulley. Take upper timing chain cover off. Cam pulley should have a mark or circle or dot that lines up with mark on bloick. (Need to make sure you are on compression stroke, not exhaust stroke of piston. How? Best way is pull spark plug and hold finger or thumb over plug hole. As you turn crank (clockwise) with a socket approaching the TDC mark, you will feel pressure build on your finger if you are on compression stroke. Could also have someone bump starter a little at a time, you can feel pressure build on your finger as piston approaches TDC. When it's close, use socket to line up crank pulley with mark.) Now check cam pulley for those timing marks. Valve timing off is often cause of backfires. So is too much gas, but first I would make sure timing is right.
TIMING BELT & SPROCKETS R & I NOTE: Some procedures may differ slightly due to engine construction. Removal 1) Remove all necessary air ducts. Position No. 4 piston at TDC of compression stroke. Align timing marks. See Fig. 2. Remove fan and fan shroud. Remove belts. If necessary, remove radiator and splashguard. 2) Prevent engine from rotating and remove crankshaft timing pulley retaining bolt. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers. Remove spring from tension pulley. Loosen adjusting bolt and move pulley toward water pump. Remove timing belt. CAUTION: Ensure pistons are at TDC when rotating camshaft or damage may result. Inspection 1) Handle timing belt carefully. Avoid twisting or kinking belt. Do not allow belt to become contaminated by water, oil, dirt or other contaminates. Inspect belt for cracks or damage. If necessary, replace. 2) Measure tension pulley spring length and force. Spring length should not exceed 2.76" (70.2 mm) and spring force should not be less than 197-347 lbs. (27-48 kg). 3) Replace tension pulley spring if not within specification. Installation 1) Pull tensioner fully toward water pump side and temporarily tighten retaining bolt. Ensure No. 4 cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke by rotating crankshaft until keyway aligns with mark on front crankshaft seal housing (12 o'clock). Rotate camshaft until timing mark on cam gear (arrow) aligns with mark on upper camshaft cover (notch). See Fig. 2. NOTE: When timing marks are aligned as stated above, No. 4 piston is at TDC on compression stroke. 2) Position timing belt over crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket, camshaft sprocket and tensioner in that order. Ensure belt is positioned in sequence given and without slack between sprockets. Loosen tension sprocket adjusting bolt allowing spring tension to tighten belt. Tighten adjusting bolt temporarily. 3) Temporarily install crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate crankshaft 2 complete revolutions in opposite direction of engine rotation, until marks on crankshaft and front oil seal retainer are aligned again. See Fig. 2. Loosen tensioner lock bolt, allowing tesioner spring to fully adjust tension. Tighten tensioner lock bolt. 4) Install timing belt covers. To complete installation, reverse removal procedures. Tighten all bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table at end of this article. Fig. 2: 2.3L & 2.6L Timing Alignment Marks Courtesy of Isuzu Motor Co
Get a piece of sand paper or a wire brush it wont ware the numbers off they are engraved/stamped on there. If not you can try timing it by ear just loosen your distributor and make small adjustments after each adjustment take it for a drive you will know when you got it right.
Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer mustbe perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel orflex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP isat the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley arealigned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of thefront timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with thenotch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crankwhen viewed from the pulley end.