Question about 2002 Mercury Grand Marquis LS

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2002Grandmarquis Ls. Keeps building pressure pushing coolant out of coolant lid after hose blew off and car want to red line. The car was shut off immediately. Doesn't over heat now but is building pressure can you please help me?

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The fan come won't come on.
does it smoke.
does not have any heat.
if you answered yes to any of these question, chances are you blow the head gasket.
try this with the engine cold or slightly worm, not hot, remove the radiator cap, make sure it has no pressure, fill it up to the top with fluid, coolant or water depend were you leave or climate, have some one crank start the engine while you observe the radiator coolant level, if the radiator spits out the fluid the head gasket is diffidently damaged. need to replace it. if not spiting , replace the thermostat and make sure that the fan works when engine reaches temperature.

Posted on Dec 02, 2014

  • Sonya Di
    Sonya Di Dec 02, 2014

    I replaced radiator, hoses, thermostat, and replaced the lid to coolant jug. I even had the head gasket tested. The only smoke I see is from the coolant splashing on the motor while driving. Heat works and the fan does click on. The car doesn't over heat now just builds pressure causing coolant to come out the lid


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SOURCE: Sonata high temperature

Could be a bad sensor. I've seen this caused by a loose connection and may not be overheating in fact. Certainly should be checked out.

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SOURCE: radiator under too much pressure?

It might of just been a defective hose because if the pressure gets to high, the radiator cap will relieve the pressure when it reaches the pressure stamped on the cap.

Posted on May 16, 2009

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SOURCE: 97 Cavalier engine heats up and blows coolant out plastic reservo

Check your oil and see if it is milky lookinig...that is a sign of a bad haed is the location of the thermostat...unless a different engine size...then post what you have and I'll get you the diagram here:


Posted on Jul 12, 2009

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SOURCE: 1999 Ford Taurus 3.0L OHV won't hold coolant?

Hello! There is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) #1-15-6 that addresses electrolysis in the cooling system...If this TSB has been installed on your vehicle...There will be a tag on the drivers door with the TSB #...Also, a restrictor will be inserted into the heater core inlet...Lets eliminate this right up front...Check to see if this TSB is installed...
The vehicle does have a closed system...Electrolysis, coupled with air in the system is the likely culprit...Replacing the metal lines with rubber will increase electrolysis, which turns the coolant to a "goop"...Coolant flow is adequate when being pumped, but when you shut the engine off the goop blocks the system...Pressure is high...So coolant spews out...
I'll send a test to determine the level of electrolysis...You will need a DIGITAL multimeter...We'll fix the the electrolysis...flush the system...replace the thermostat...And properly bleed the air...Send comment about TSB and do yo have the digital meter...Guru...........Saailer

Posted on Aug 19, 2010

Testimonial: "No, TSB is not installed. No label, and there was nothing in the heater core inlet when I re-did the system. I own a DMM."

  • 6993 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Lincoln LS V6 Overheating


when the car overheats, is there still water in the radiator?

If there is water in the radiator and the car overheats, then it means there might be some dirt or blockage in the radiator or condenser.

When the car is on the motion, air passes through the front and assists the fan to cool the engine. There are situation whereby air doesn't have free flow because of blockage in the radiator and condenser. Dust and debris can cause blockage. If this be the case, have your radiator washed thoroughly and cleaned.

If there is no water in the radiator when the car overheats, then there is a probably a leakage from the water pump. Or maybe your fan isn't blowing properly. The fan might be blowing weak air.

The above are what could cause your engine to over heat.

So start the check from the radiator. Poor water into the radiator, wait for some minutes, look under the car and observe if water is going to leak. If there is a leak, it might be from the water pump or a leaking hose.

If water from radiator has no leak, have your radiator washed and clean the condenser has they might block air that is suppose to cool the engine.

Also, make sure your fan is blowing properly or well enough to cool the engine.

Make sure you have the above checked thoroughly as they are the major causes of problems like this.

This overheating problem could lead to a burnt gasket and this can dry the engine oil which will eventually knock the engine. So have this problem fixed to prevent further damage that will cost you more money.

Lastly, remove the hose that connects the radiator to the engine, water from the engine will come out. Pour water into the radiator, the water will flow through the hose down to the ground. Do this severally. Now connect the hose back to the engine, pour water into the radiator. Start the engine, the water in the radiator will reduce, add more water till radiator is full.

In summary, the major cause of over heating problem is from the radiator, fan, water pump, blockage in the hose, and dirt in in/on the condenser. These are area you need to concentrate on.

I forgot to mention that the acceleration meter or engine meter on the dash board shouldn't be more the 5. It should be below 5. If it is above 5, it can cause overheating. I hope you understand what I mean.....


Posted on Sep 12, 2011

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Wouldn't a repair shop have figured out the problem ?

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I'm not sure what this guy has done and not saying anything bad about him. I just want to help and explain a litle about your fuel system. As far as the gas lines blowing, You have metal and rubber hoses and am guessing the rubber hoses are the ones that had a problem. The only reason the metal ones would go is rust or something hittting them and knocking a hole in them. Ruber hoses can get rotten and get a leak. Below are some pictures of the underside of the fuel tank and as you can see many of those lines are mounted and if some of those mounts were not disconnected is could have pulled on one of the rubber lines and ripped it. I'm guessing that's what happened and he may have just said they blew. Will get to a blown line in a second. By the way I have been working on cars for over 25 years and have forgotten to disconnect things and ripped lines happens. Now fuel lines "blowing", in my years of working on vehicles I have hardly come across this unless the car sat for a long time and the fuel system was clogged up but even in those cases they were old and rotten. The fuel pump should only constantly run when turning the engine over or while it is running. If the system were that clogged it wouldn't run there for no extra pressure would really build up. When you turn the key to just the on position the fuel relay turns on for a few seconds and then automatically shuts off. Therefore your not just building and building pressure. Now the fuel regulator is done by vacuum. If it were bad you would have less pressure. They do not clog and cause a build up of fuel pressure and if they did, there is a diaphram inside the regulator that would blow and develope a leak (vacuum wise) and again no or little pressure not more. Below is also a picture of the fuel regulator and on top of it you can see where the vacuum line attaches. I hope I was able to help you understand a bit and just didn't confuse you more. Hope this helps...




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This sounds like a clogged catalytic converter. When this happens, the exhaust gases build up in the manifold and before the catalyst. It is very common for the delta pressure feedback sensor hoses to blow off the tubes. If you have access to any tools, you can remove the oxygen sensor and install a backpressure gauge to verify this issue. If you have more than 5lbs, you have excessive back pressure, caused by an exhaust restriction.

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I have a dodge grand caravan with a 3.3L engine and it keeps bursting my raidiator,i've replaced it three times in a short period of time,and it does not have a thermostat. hope u can help me.thanks!

If your blowing radiator up you have a coolant issue. The only way to blow a radiator up is for it to be building way to much pressure. The only way to get that much pressure is the engine running way to hot. I would suggest trouble shooting the coolant system. Make sure water is getting thru the entire engine by putting a water hose in the upper radiator hose and see if you get water out of the upper radiator inlet.

I would also check to see if the fans are coming on. If you have 1 fan it should come on when the vehicle hits about 205 degrees. If you have 2 fans one will do what i already said and the other will come on when you turn the ac on.

If you find no issue so far then the water pump is probably bad or the coolant lines themselves are bad. You can check the coolant line by running the vehicle. When it starts to heat up if the hose is bad it will start to collapse. Also make sure your radiator cap is the right pressure for the vehicle and that it is actually good. Its easier to just buy a new for 5 bucks and be done with it. You should replace those caps every 30 k miles regardless.

Remember a coolant system keep coolant from boiling by allowing pressure to build. If the system is not allowed to build pressure then the vehcile will over heat and if it gets bad it will blow a radiator apart.

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Hi i have a 1998 bmw 540i and my radiator hose are too hot and it's seems like it's too much pressure in it it's like pumped i pointed in the picture number 1 hose and number 2 is under the air intake the...

Ok, I know you said that you replaced the t-stat, however they do have a 20-30% fail rate.

Lets assume that your t-stat is functioning properly (if it is you should see the temp gauge fluxuate when the engine reaches its hottest operating temp, the t-stat will open and the needle will drop, Also your car will overheat or blow luke warm air if your tstat is bad.)

If you have blockage in your coolant lines your system will build excessive back pressure depending on the line (coolant system flush fixes this issue)

and the final thing to factor in is that the coolant system on any vehicle is always under extreem pressure when the coolant is hot and the engine is running, your return hose from the radiator will have massive pressure in it if the thermostat is closed, and it should relieve itself some when the t-stat opens. Your low end hose (engine to radiator return) will have low to mid pressure at all times because the only thing building pressure on this hose is the pump trying to cycle the water, heat is not a big factor with this hose compaired to the top end hose. Thanks for using

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