Question about Chevrolet Cars & Trucks
I have dried the spark plug about 5 or 6 times now, but it starts again, I replaced the number 4 spark plug that keeps getting wet
The cylinder pressure may be fine but the leak might occur from the coolant part of the gasket, possibly incorrectly tensioned bolts. Try replacing the gasket (at the very least do a visual examination) run the car for 20 mins with the hood up and watch the area closely around the plug area and note if any hoses are leaking nearby.
Posted on Dec 02, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like ther might be an intermittent ignition (spark) problem... when the plugs don't fire, they will get wet with fuel...
So check all of the ignition components, make sure there are no loose connections to the coils are plug wires.
It is also possible that there might be a problem in the fuel injection, such as an injector stuck open and continuously feeding fuel to its cylinder (which would show as only ONE plug being wet), or possibly a bad fuel pressure regulator, letting fuel pressure in the injector rail go too high and causing an over-rich mixture and engine flooding (symptomatic of ALL plugs being wet).
Once the engine is "flooded" it is sometimes hard to "clear" the engine with modern injection systems, but try this: Hold the accelerator to steadily to the floor while cranking --- DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL! --- This will allow the maximum amount of air to mix with the overage of fuel in the cylinders and help the engine to eliminate the excess without also adding too much back in...
If you still can't get it to fire off doing the above, then remove the fuel pump relay or fuse and repeat the above until the engine tries to run.... It will run briefly until it fuel starves and dies. Then replace whichever you removed and try starting again with fuel delivery back in service.
Velma, I would have answered this sooner, but I've been on a "road trip" and only recently got back home. If you still have problems, please post a comment describing as best you can the situation --- you have to be my eye, ears, nose, and hands in this long distance effort! Also let me know why the head gasket blew, if known... Racing or overheating? If this does help, please remember to rate my assistance --- your approval is my ONLY compensation for providing this help!
Posted on Jul 12, 2008
As you've stated driving around town it's fine, and everything is working well. For the symptoms, there are 2 possible causes:
1. Your cooling fans are not working.
2. Your radiator needs to be replaced.
I'm sure you can determine which it is, and I wish you luck on your repair.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
take out all the spark plugs and put a radiator pressre tester on the radiator and pressurize the system, then inspect each spark plug hole for coolant. you will find out what cylinder or head will need service. How did this car run before sitting? Blue smoke is not good, although it doesnt sound like you have run it long enough to verify any real cyl problems. if its smoking it may be overhaul time. and the complete engin ewill need disassembly.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
Testimonial: "Great advice, I wanted to do some initial troubleshooting before rushing in to a teardown. This is the info I needed. Thanx"
The only real way of checking for warpage on any head is by using a bar that extends from corner to corner on the head. The bar must be certified as straight (you can actually buy one from a tool dealer) since you likely will have little use for it, you can also have a good machine shop check that. Additionally, you should have had the heads magnafluxed (crack checked). The deck on the block should also be carefully examined and cleaned.
You are on the right track if you are going to do another hydrocarbon test. That will verify if you are getting a proper seal at the head gaskets or have any other seal problems (like cracks).
It seems as if you have done a very careful job and I know you don't want to take it apart again. The things you mentioned though do appear to point to exhaust driving coolant from the engine.
You can check the actual antifreeze mix with a simple ball type hydrometer. Anything except 50/50 will change the boil point of the mixture in a direction that isn't good. One thing I'd check is that you may still have an air pocket in the system somewhere. Make sure when filling that the heater is on high heat. One trick for getting the T stat to open without an air bind is to turn the engine off as soon as the temp approaches the opening point (195 (f)) then re-starting it in about three to five minutes, the engine temp will continue to rise during the time it is off but there will be no flow, allowing air to escape without fighting the coolant flow. Once re-started, add coolant slowly so the stat does not close again but add just fast enough so it does not overheat. One other item...If you need to take it apart again, don't use any kind of steel shim gaskets for the heads. Though a composite gasket will many times lower compression a bit, they also seal better. I use fel pro blue gaskets in everything. Unless I was careless or something got by me (not often) I never had a problem with any engine I ever built or repaired. The only application where I did not use them was in fuel engines where they were "o" ringed with stainless wire and used solid copper gaskets. (way different than a street engine!!!)
Have that hydrocarbon test done ASAP. No sense messing with it 'till you have that squared away!
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
Change the thermostat, this is inexpensive to fix......
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Posted on Jan 07, 2011
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