Question about 2007 Chevrolet Silverado
It's a small leak. You'll have to look for water marks. Start with the water pump. Also look around the heads. If it is a hose, look for the marks on the exhaust manifolds/ pipes. Directly above it is usually where the hose is leaking. Also leaking hoses are usually swelled when hot and have presuure in them.
Posted on Dec 02, 2014
You might not see leaks if the fluid is leaking on the engine where it gets burnt off before dropping to the ground. That happened to me. Check all of the fluid levels. Engine oil, transmission oil, power steering oil and the antifreeze. Check when warm not hot, not cold. Pay special attention to the level and check once each day until you detect which is leaking.
Posted on Dec 02, 2014
Testimonial: "i have had to add antifreeze about a half a gallon in 2 weeks"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You have a coolant leak most likely in the heater core. Try disconnecting your heater hoses and coupling them together, then running the engine to see if the leak goes away. If it does, I would have the heater core replaced.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
Have a dealer or garage check your Oxygen (O2) sensor. As a quick fix, try disconnecting and reconnecting your car battery. Sometimes this will reset the check engine light.Good Luck!
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
Usually a smell of antifreeze in the cab when the heater is running is a sign the heater core is leaking. Just becasue you dont see a leak at this time doesn't mean there isn't one. It might small enough that the haet from the core is burning off the leaking antifreeze. I would suggest replacing the core before you get in one day and there is a puddle on your floorboard. Or if you go to a local parts store and rent a cooling system pressure tester, wait until the vehicle is cold, pressure the system to 12 lbs and then check for leaks. Hope this helps you out......
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
Testimonial: "that is what i also thought, no puddle yet, just waiting. I tried a sealant for now, but will get a heater core"
Before guessing at transmission problems, check the fluid level (car
warmed up, engine running in Park on level ground) and have the PCM
scanned for trouble codes FIRST.
Also note that many problems that show up as transmission issues are actually PCM or electrical, and may be external to the transmission.
Secondly, put a line pressure gauge ($55 shipped on Ebay, or visit a local trans shop) on the pressure test port and go for a drive to verify proper line pressure. Base pressure at idle in P,N,OD should be around 70psi and around 140psi in R. Max line pressure should be at least 190psi at WOT in 1st or 2nd, 225psi is optimum. If base pressure is low, trans or pump is worn out. If max pressure is low, check EPC solenoid. If reverse is slow to engage, and line pressure does not come up to at least 130psi in reverse, replace the boost valve with a Transgo 0.500" boost valve (easy fix in pan).
1-2 shift does not happen at WOT until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Double check by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise.
1-2 Shift shudder at WOT; delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift; There's a problem ONLY on the 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Check the yellow spring inside the accumulator housing for breakage. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced. Easy fix in the pan.
1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: Check TPS for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, replace.
Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Poor line pressure rise due to leaking boost valve, clogged EPC filter screen, failing EPC solenoid, or worst case: leaky seals throughout. Transgo HD2-C kit fixes first two without removing trans. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably R&R. Also try a transmission flush with BG brand products (Firestone stocks it).
Here are the common things that may be happening to your transmission to what you have described. As for your transmission fluid being burn, that is a sign that your transmission is slipping. Your going to have to service the transmission again fluid and filter changed. Since your doing that you may want to replace the boost valve and shift servo. I did mine on my 4L60E and have over 365,000 miles so far, replacing the boost valve every 60,000 mile and it's only $45.00 and take less the 5 min to replace and the servo is around the same price. I did do the upgrade and have the corvette boost valve and servo in my transmission which helps a lot. The other thing to is B&M has a electronic shift controlled modulator you can install your self which would give you 3 settings and works great with the upgrades mentioned above.
Good luck and hope this helps, keep me posted and try not to run the transmission too long with the burnt and dirty fluid. The dirt in the fluid will cause the electronic pressure control (EPC) valve to fail and will end up causing a $2,300.00 total transmission rebuilt over a simple $190.00 up grade and maintenance.
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
Hello, I know of no product capable of a long lasting repair. You might be able to seal it on the outside with some sort of epoxy but a better fix would be to replace it with a new reservoir bottle. To remove it you need to unbolt that skinny brace above the battery and remove the battery and unbolt the top bolts of the washer reservoir. CAUTION, if you have the THEFTLOCK radio be sure to disable it before removing the battery cables. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the driver's side wheel just enough to break them loose and jack up the driver's side and place a jack stand on a solid part of the frame, remove the driver's side wheel. Remove the inner wheel liner to give you access to the bottom reservoir bolts and pump, disconnect the electrical connector and unbolt the pump motor and washer reservoir, then slide it down and out, being careful of the small tube that carries the fluid to the wipers. Installation is the reverse, good luck and if you have any other questions don't hesitate to send a comment.
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
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