Question about Cars & Trucks
Put a fuel pump and a fuel presser regulator and plugs and wires and a fuel filter.
Power to the injectors means little if there is no pulse to activate the injectors. That comes from the ECM and the voltage of the pulse is controlled by the accelerator position sensor. Secondly if the injectors tips are blocked then there will be nothing squirting out when required.. So remove an injectors and have they checked out professionally. run the fault codes to check for faulty sensors that control the injector action..
Posted on Dec 02, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Fuel Injector Wont Spray
check wires at throttle body. can use a 12 volt test light to check for current. if you have spark it is not the ign module. set meter for 12-20volts. should have 2 fuse boxes on this model, one behind right side of dash at floorboard
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
from the sounds of it its going to be one of 3 things 1) the injector is bad or 2) there is no power getting to the injector 3) bad relay switch.
1) to find out if the injector is good. pull the injector out and with some wire ground one side and touch the other side to your battery, every time you tap the wire to the bat you should here the injector click..
2) if injector is good get a test light and test to see if power is coming out of the wires that go to injector( on some vehicles you have to have the motor turning over befor power is sent through wire, so have someone turn the key while you check the wires with test light)
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
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sounds like #1 injector is stuck open
unbolt the fule rail lift it up and turn the key to run and see if that injector is leaking
Posted on Nov 06, 2009
I have this same NO START problem...
Began with tach giving readings not exceding 1200 rpm with strange 4000 + spikes.. Cruse control would not turn on or off at times and indicator light would only work sometimes..Had several episodes of excessive cranking to get it to start.. Stalling out while driving and even at freeway speeds.. Pulling the negative cable for 10 min. allowed it to start although with lots of cranking and put it in limp mode which required another computer reset to get out of.. Had thrown error codes related to cam and crank sensors which were replaced along with coil and manifold temp sensors.. Had the 9 volt power to sensors when key was on but the check engine light does not stay on with all the other idiot lights..
I wish people who respond would read the post first..
Original post states,
Cranks,No spark,No fuel pump run, changed some sensors ect...
If it cranks it ain't the neutral safety switch, starter or battery!! WAKE UP!!
Seems the computer is not turning on the coil, injectors or fuel pump for a reason.. Find that reason and you will find the solution to the problem.. Seeing as that the computers logic states are a dealer secrete the poster as I have changed many parts in blind hope that it will fix the problem.. Relays, sensors and ecu computer.. Did a visual check of all harness potential wear spots like where it crosses over the power rack..
Could it be in the wiring harness inside the dash??
Could it be a bad ground??
Can an alternator that has failed cause the computer not to start??
Can a bad oil pressure sensor cause the computer not to start??
Can signal loss from the TCU or BCU to the ECU cause this??
Is there an undocumented kill if the ECU thinks it was in an accident??
I can ground the relay line from the ECU and the fuel pump runs and pressures up and the other relays turn on as well..
This crank but no start problem seems to be common with a lot of 1994-2001 Dodge and Chrysler owners.. All these systems have become interlaced with undocumented safety features that baffle the DIYer..If you have seen this and have fixed it PLEASE RESPOND!!!!
Posted on May 02, 2010
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