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Cars & Trucks Master
Re: why is it the big nut on my radiator can not move can...
Try turning back and forth to loosen. Use big pipe wrench and a piece or pipe over the handle, six feet long or so. BE CAREFUL not to rip the unit away from the floor or other pipes. Try one way, then the other, and maybe use a BIG hammer to strike the pipe while someone else keeps tension on the wrench. Try both directions as this will sometimes break the rust free. Are you sure you need to do this?
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Hey Big, You will need a set of FLARE NUT wrenches... these are critical.. without them, you will round off the connector nuts, collapse the ends of the nuts or twist off the radiator connections..the removal is pretty straight forward.. HOLD the radiator connection with one wrench and loosen the line nuts with another wrench....
Take off the plastic cover located near the top of the radiator if present.
Remove the protective shield located on top of the belt pulling the water pump. You will need to undo two 10mm nuts and one 10mm bolt.
Undo the 10mm nut that holds water pump housing togeter with the oil dipstick.
Take off the air intake assembly.
Move the PCM computer to one side, ensure that the module is safely placed.
Release the belt tensioner using a big flat screwdriver.
Remove the serpentine belt from the water pump pulley
Remove the upper radiator hose. This is held by a metal clamp. Use plyers to remove the clamp.
Remove also the clamp from the thermostat housing bypass hose, without removing the hose (you have to bleed coolant first).
Unscrew the four 10mm bolts that hold the water pump housing and letcoolant drain from water pump plug. At this point you can also removethe lower radiator hose to drain faster.
After coolant drains remove the water pump housing.
At this point you have to use a special Water Pump removal tool onwater pump cand turn clockwise until the pump is sliding off thehousing.
Remove the pump and the o-ring located inside the water pump housing.
Clean and grease the area, put a new o-ring and install back water pump housing
Install the new water pump using the special tool and following operations in reverse order.
You may need to use sealant tabs from a Cadillac or GM dealer. Here is what you need. Better going to your local dealer to get the best product for yourCadillac. You will also need a 3/8'' ratchet, socket and extensions
Youmay also need to replace the housing cover gasket. You will need toreplace the O-Ring, that usually comes with the new pump. When installing new pump you must also ensure that the new pump is aligned correctly,one of the tabs on the pump housing is different and will lock up the pump, so it must bealigned properly while installing.
ALL ! waterpumps have a hole=1/8" approx dia. underneath the main shaft that holds the fanblade to wp. shaft. When shaft bearings start to go H2O will usually leak out of here due to the seals going too. THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH VAPOR LOCK WHICH OCCURS WHEN THE CARB AND GAS LINE BECOME HOTTER THEN THE BOILING PT OF FUEL.If your water pump is not moving enough coolant through the engine block and then the radiator you can get VP Loc(but engine will probably be boiling over//DO NOT OPEN RADIATOR CAP AT THIS TIME=YOU WILL BE SCALDED,,let it cool down. Remove and replace water pump(you might have to pull radiator no big a deal) to get access to all bolts holding w pump on. Back flush engine block and radiator:pull thermostat to make sure correct temp to open and not stuck.Replace parts=you are done! NOTE: If you overheat on the freeway; turn on the car's heater(it has an extra radiator to cool down engine) and stop AC. Good luck-Fly
Partially drain coolant level to below thermostat level if nessasary. Follow top radiator hose over to engine. Where the top radiator hose stops at engine is where the thermostat is. Hose is connected to a pipe ( called a thermostat housing) that bolts to the engine. Remove components if they are in the way of accessing the two bolts or nuts that hold down the thermostat housing. Remove thermostat housing. Thermostat is under the housing. Replace thermostat and paper gasket or rubber o-ring. Be sure to clean surfaces of area where the gasket is mounted. Reinstall thermostat housing but do not over tighten the housing bolts or nuts. Reinstrall components removed and refill coolant to proper level. Do not forget to close radiator drain. Do not put radiator cap on at this time. Start engine and let run for a few minutes to get air out of system. Stop engine and refill coolant if needed. Install radiator cap and check coolant resevoir and fill to proper level if needed. Hope this helps.
We'll do one side of the car and you can repeat the steps on the other side, before you remove the wheels you have to remove the large centre nut that holds on the cv joint. the nut is in the centre between the wheel nuts, its normal a 34'' or 36'' you'll have to us a power bar as they can be tight. once the nut is removed, jack the car up and remove the wheel, next you have to remove the nut holding the (bottom) ball joint, when the nut is off the ball joint will be hard to seperate hit the ball joint on all sides with a hammer if it still wont move you will have you use a ball joint seperater (fork shape) to brake the connection. once the ball joint is removed you can (tap) the the cv joint out of its housing in the centre of the wheel( where the big nut was ) be careful not to damage the treads. with the cv joint free the driveshaft will hand free some off them just pull out when you remove the clips on the rubber booth attached to the driveshaft and gearbox, others booths are bolted in with small 13mm bolts, repeat the process on the other side. good look I hope this helps (Rate me answer please)
Use a penatrating oil like pb blaster,and use a line wrench to keep from rounding the threads,and when the nut breaks free from the radiator,just move it a little,cause the line is going to be stuck to the nut,work it back and forth,and spray the pb blaster on it until you are able to turn the nut all the way around.
follw the radiator hose from the top of the radiator to where is enters the engine, the thermostat is under the casting with two or three nuts holding it in.
faulty thermostats usually cause overheating,because they start closed when cold and open as the engine warms, if they dont move they stop the coolant from going into the radiator, if it was stuck open, the car would still warm up, but slightly slower, try a new gauge sender
you need a special tool , a fan nut tool , it's like a 1-1/2 " ,actualy
a little smaller , i use a 1-1/2" wrench and smack it with a rubber
mallet , but there is a tool for it , i think checkers auto has a loan
-a-tool program , but to buy it is expensive , it is normal threaded
- counter clockwise is off . a special tool holds the 4 bolts on the
pulley and the other part of the tool fits on the big nut . sorry i
can't fix ya , cuz who has a 1-1/2" wrench or the special wrench in
there home arsinal .
You can remove the fan clutch to add additional space. 1.8 T or V6? On 1.8 T remove the turbo hose. You have 2 types of fan clutches. Usually a big nut on the fan which must be removed by blocking the pulley or holding it and turning the big nut as to tighten it (opposite threads.) Usually seized on a little heat is needed on the nut just being careful not to heat the clutch and damage it. Other model have an 8 mm allen in the back depending on the fan clutch. With this advanced you'll have more space to move the fan a little. If you have to remove the front it's really not as bad as you think. About 1/2 hr it'll be advanced. You don't have to take it all off just advance it without removing the rad hoses or a/c or radiator.