Question about 2000 Lexus ES 300

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2000 lexus es300 runs fine, then battery light comes on, and all dash lights dim, speedometer goes to zero and car shuts off.

Alternator and starter are less than 1 year old. Battery is 6 months old. When I jump the car it will run fine for a couple of minutes before the lights dim, speedometer and tachometer go to zero, and car idles to a rough stop.

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First thing I would do is make sure the alternator is charging the battery. You can pick up a cheap VOA meter from Harbor Freight or Radio Shack. Measure the voltage across the the battery posts when they are connected and the car is running. The voltage should be about 13.5 or a little higher. If the voltage is 12 then there is no alternator input and you looking at voltage produced by the battery alone. This will detect a faulty alternator for you. Be sure the battery is charged when you do this.

Posted on Dec 05, 2014

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Hi there.
Well it sounds like you have got a problem but a few things to check are,fit a set of jumper leads from another battery beside the car and run jumper leads to your leads that will cut off your battery and see if it still works the same, also take off the plug lead from the alternator
and start engine, then you will be running on spare battery only Now if it still dose it then the alternator is ok, [thats both your battery and alternator are OK.but i think you will find the alternator is your problem as you can buy a brandnew one and its a problem in a week or 2 and another time they last for 20 years, and if the starter isent a problem at all.
BUTdont use your battery by pass it and use your black jumper lead straight to earth ,and poss lead to your poss lead BUT take the lead off of your old battery.

Posted on Dec 02, 2014

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Have you tried checking the ground cables? They could be loose or damaged, and have a weak connection. It is also possible the battery is faulty. Hopefully you have a warranty?!?
Also try checking the idle air control valve, could be dirty or bad.Clublexus.com is also a real good site to check out if you havent already.

Posted on Dec 01, 2014

Testimonial: "Thanks for the feedback. I checked the ground cables and couldn't see any issues; seem solidly connected and intact. The battery does take a charge from a battery charger, but it gets drained when I run the car. I havent checked the idle air control valve yet, but I am going to tackle that next."

  • CHAVA G
    CHAVA G Dec 01, 2014

    I just remembered my car had a similar issue, it would not actually start because it never turned over but what was wrong was my "ignition control module" it was going bad, there is a fuse you can check, mine was bad, I put a new fuse in, popped again so that let me know something else was going on. My brand new battery was drained and had to be replaced. I could not figure out why. Come to find out this little black box near the air intake is the icm. It is around 300-500$ at the auto parts store. I got mine from a junk yard, that is way too much. I also ended up replacing my fuel pump because it was bad too. (car had 330 k) but that module was the main cause. I hope it is not the case for you, but it is possible.

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Fog Horn
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SOURCE: battery charge light comes on a few minutes after car starts

Couple of things to check, first this may be nothing more than a belt that has loosened or stretched after the install.There should only be about a quarter of an inch stretch in the belt between pulleys. Caution - only check with engine stopped!!! The alternator causes a strong resistance when it is producing electric power, so slippage is to be checked first. Second, if the battery light comes on and off; it maybe acting in error. Get a multi-meter and check the battery voltage with car and ignition shut off. With the meter set on 12volt bat, place the black probe on the negative side of battery or ground and the red probe on the positive side of battery. If you get a reading of 12.66 v the battery is being charged and is full. If you get 12.45 you have a 50% charged battery. If less the alternator wiring needs further checking into as there maybe issues with wiring or the alternator itself. Hope this helps.

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Could be anything from corrosion on cables, loose cables, lose or faulty wiring of wires behind alternator
defective voltage regulator. Visually inspect all the items noted. Then use a volt meter and measure the charging voltage of the alternator. It must be between 13,5 to 14.5 volts with and without accessories on at idle and 2000rpm. Anything below 13.5 weak battery or defective alternator ,lose wiring , corrosion. Anything above the 14.5 volts is a defective regulator.

Posted on Jul 06, 2010

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SOURCE: my battery light is on

Sounds like your voltage regulator is acting up, and at times will not let alternator voltage reach the circuit. At this point car stars drawing on battery alone (triggering battery light) and working until it is out of juice. Before you buy a new voltage regulator, make sure that its contact points on the alternator, and the plug from it to the vehicle circuit is clean, shiny and making good contact. These parts, due to their location tend to collect dirt and moisture, leading to an intermittent performance before they stop working completely.

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geo5734036
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You'll need to check with the dealer to see if your voltage regulator is in the alternator or in the computer. If it is in the alternator and you bought a rebuilt unit, it is possible you have a faulty alternator. Check with the dealer first as to the location and then remove your alternator and have it tested. New alternators usually cost more but there is less possibility of faulty components inside. If your regulator is in the computer then you are in for a greater expense in replacing the computer.

Posted on Nov 15, 2010

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