Question about 1993 Ford Taurus
What's the price range on the repairs
Which of the many hoses?
No diagram under the hood?
Price range to repair what?
A repair shop has no idea what they are going
to charge you, until you pay to find a problem first
No price or nothing to fix until you find something
Posted on Dec 01, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: PCV valve location
if i know what you are asking, look at where you put your oil in. on the valve cover to the top right should be a plug with a tubeing runs to your air clear tube where the air mass sensor and carb is located. i think that is what you are looking for.
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
I will list some of my experiences with similar problems.
V-belt quality and grade vary a lot and I do mean a lot. Belts can take a set from sitting--anybody with a table saw will attest to this. I would try a new belt first after finding a good parts man. A good alternator shop (rare today) can help here. The smog pump belt is an easy one to change. Try the cheap stuff first.
Smog pumps in my experience do not need a lot of power, especially at idle, but I have had bearing and pump failure on several wipe out a belt. Pull the belt and spin the smog pump by hand.
Belts can glaze and it is not necessarily noticeable. Stamped-steel pulleys polish smooth and won't transmit the power needed. Pulleys can also wear in some strange shapes so a new belt does not fit properly. See if an alternator shop has a cast iron pulley for the alternator. Cast iron does not polish smooth and also wears off any glaze from the belt surfaces. The crank pulleys are stamped-steel but are larger in diameter with a longer wrap angle so slippage is not a problem there.
In my poor days I tried sanding the belts and pulleys to remove the glaze. Too much work and it was only temporary.
I have used a cast iron pulley on a 110 amp alternator with a winch load. A stamped-steel pulley would just smoke the belt when under load (winch drew 225 amps total!). My truck is 70 amp and that is the biggest alternator Ford has with a V-belt that I know of.
I considered removing my smog pump and associated hardware. My experience has been to leave everything intact unless I can replace everything with an earlier, non-smog engine. Doing everything piecemeal has just caused other problems.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
SOURCE: 2000 ford taurus vacuum hose..
this vacumn line is to open the flaps on the A/C inside the car so it will run from the inlet manifold to somewhere on the heater/blower housing ,but where i cant help you with ,sorry none of these cars here in spain so i never seen one
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
the main vacuum hose is at the main intake frame at the top of the engin
but the vacuum lines for the vacuum systeme are more than one which one you main.
any way use this methode to check for leaking hoses.
A small piece of vacuum hose (1/4-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the
"hissin'g" sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.
(It's quite common for vacuum hoses,especially those in the emissions system, tobe color coded or identified by colored stripes molded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thickness, collapse resistance and temperature resistance.
When replacing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of
the same material.
Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle.
If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses
and fittings to ensure correct installation.
When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic
T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks and
thehose where it fits over each fitting for distortion, which
could cause leakage.
. Warning: When probing with the vacuu hose stethoscope, be careful not to
come into contact with moving engine components such as drivebelts, the cooling fan, etc.
Posted on Oct 29, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system - insufficient flow detected
Causes: Hose leak/blockage, basic setting not carried out (if applicable), wiring, EGR valve, EGR solenoid, ECM
Your EGR valve should be on top of the engine in the front between the intake manifold and the pulleys. It looks something like this:
First, make sure the vacuum hose is good and run it down to where it connects to the intake manifold to check for any leaks. If that's good and you want to get your hands dirty, take the valve off and see if it's clogged. clean it and see if you can actuate it with vacuum (put a vacuum hose on it, ****, and see if it will open. Also, look to see if there is gunk in the line and intake where it connects. Clean out anything you can with carb cleaner.
If you can get it unclogged and the valve is working, put the valve back on with a new gasket, else buy a new one ($40 at autozone :o( ). If you solve the issue, the engine light should clear after a couple hours of driving. OK?
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