Question about 1990 Toyota 4Runner

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Engine stalls when i remove the negative battery lead does this mean the alternator is shot or could it be the voltage regulator

Voltage reading at battery when not running is 13 but when running at high idle it drops to 11.3

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Leave battery connected! At a fast idle you should read about 13.5 across battery. if so than the alternator is OK. Since it only reads 11.3 at fast idle than the alternator is suspect. Probable has lost one of the diodes in the fullwave rectifier, or the perhaps the voltage reglator is bad. Think of the battery as a large capacitor which evens out voltage fluctuations and leave it connected.

Posted on Dec 01, 2014

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Lets deal with the two issues here...
1. The alternator and regulator work differenctly in modern cars and removing your negative lead could be removing the reference earth from your car computer!!! This is actually not recommended in most new cars!!! Therefore this is not a suggested fault finding technique.
2. The second assessment I assume the lead is re-connected to the battery. This is pretty suspicious! The voltage with engine stopped should be around 13 volts (measured at the terminals). This drop is due to internal resistance in the battery. When the revs up a little the voltage should be anywhere between .5 and 1.5 volts above, if you have a healthy alternator and regulator.

Posted on Dec 01, 2014

Why would you remove the battery cable when it is running?

Current has to get back to the battery on the ground side
You took that away & it stopped

Certainly was not a test for anything

If the battery has been sitting for several hours & it reads above
12.7 the battery has failed

11.3 with a heavy load -- I guess is the question
That may be normal for your vehicle

Only way to resolve any vehicle problem is by component testing

Posted on Dec 01, 2014

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Veiw of 97 nissan maxima altenator on motor


Alternator

Print


TESTING

The easiest way to test the performance of the alternator is to perform a regulated voltage test.

  1. Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature.
  2. Connect a voltmeter between the positive and negative terminals of the battery.
  3. Voltage should be 14.1-14.7 volts.
  4. If voltage is higher or lower than specification, connect a voltmeter between the battery positive (B+) voltage output terminal of the alternator and a good engine ground.
  5. Voltage should be 14.1-14.7 volts.
  6. If voltage is still out of specification, a problem exists in the alternator or voltage regulator.
  7. If voltage is now within specification, a problem exists in the wiring to the battery or in the battery itself.

Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definite way to determine the condition of your alternator.


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1993-94 Models
See Figures 1 through 5

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, for safety purposes.
  2. Remove the right side splash guard from under the vehicle.
  3. Disconnect the alternator lead wires and connections. Label them if you are unsure of their locations.



0900c152800760af.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: The large positive lead connection is protected by a rubber boot


0900c152800760b0.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Make sure the alternator ground wire is also removed

  1. Loosen the drive belt adjusting bolt and slip the belt off the pulley.
  2. Remove the lower adjustment bolt, followed by the upper pivot bolt.



0900c152800760b1.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the lower adjustment bolt ...


0900c152800760b2.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 4: ... followed by the upper pivot bolt. Make sure you support the alternator

  1. Lower the alternator from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Using a C-clamp and a socket, push the upper pivot bushing back in it's bore until it bottoms out.



0900c152800760b3.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 5: Using a C-clamp to push in the pivot bushing will make installation easier

  1. Raise the alternator into the engine bracket, and push the upper pivot bolt all the way through the bracket to support it.
  2. Install the lower adjustment bolt, followed by the upper pivot nut.
  3. Place the belt on the alternator pulley, and tighten the belt.
  4. Tighten the upper and lower mounting bolts.
  5. Engage the alternator lead wires and connections.
  6. Connect the negative battery cable.
  7. Start the vehicle, and check for proper operation.
  8. Readjust the belt tension, if necessary. Install the lower splash guard.

1995-98 Models
  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  2. Remove the splash guard on the right side of the vehicle.
  3. Loosen the alternator belt idler pulley.
  4. Slip the drive belt off the alternator pulley.
  5. Remove the four air conditioning compressor mounting bolts.
  6. Remove the radiator fan and fan shroud.
  7. Move the air conditioning compressor forward.
  8. Disconnect the alternator harness connector.
  9. Remove the alternator mounting bolts, and lower the alternator from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Hold the alternator in place and install the mounting bolts.
  2. Plug in the alternator harness connector.
  3. Move the air conditioning compressor back into location.
  4. Install the radiator cooling fan and shroud.
  5. Install the air conditioning compressor mounting bolts.
  6. Place the drive belt on the alternator pulley.
  7. Tighten the drive belt to the proper tension with the idler pulley.
  8. Install the splash guard.
  9. Connect the negative battery terminal.

Proper belt tension is important. A belt that is too tight may cause alternator bearing failure; one that is too loose will cause a gradual battery discharge and/or belt slippage, resulting in belt breakage from overheating.

Mar 16, 2013 | 1997 Nissan Maxima

Tip

How to test an alternator


Diagnosing alternators are about the same on all vehicles. You will need a digital multimeter to do the tests. ( WalMart has cheap ones for around $9) <br />First, you need to make sure it isn't really a battery problem.<br />One at a time, take off each battery cable at the battery and thoroughly clean the terminals and cable ends and retighten securly. NOTE: take off negative (black) first, leave it off, then do the positive (red) cable. Re-attach positive and then negative last. This way you will avoid any contact spark on the positive side which could damage your computer or wiring.<br />Next, check the voltage on your battery. With multimeter on Volts DC 20 setting, you should get around 12.65 Volts DC. <br />NOTE: Always use red lead on meter to positive (red) cable / battery post and black lead to negative (black) cable.<br />If your battery was discharged some due to your alternator suspition, you can go to the next step and start / jump start the engine.<br />With engine running test voltage at the battery again. You should get 13.4 to 14.2 volts.<br />Wiggle your test leads, scratching at the metal battery / cable terminals to ensure a good metal contact.<br />If you get more than 14.2 volts DC, your voltage regulator in the alternator is bad and the alternator must be replaced.<br />If you get less than 13 volts DC, move your black test lead to an engine ground (metal bolt which holds the alternator on, or clean metal surface / bolt on engine itself) and see if your readings are the same. If you get a higher reading of 13.4 - 14.2 volts your negative connection (cable or attatch point on engine) is faulty.<br />If still the same (less than 13 Volts) Move your red test lead to the connection on the back of the alternator itself where the red wire connects and black lead to ground. If your voltage is higher in the 13.2-14 volt range, your positive (red) cable or connection in that circut is faulty.<br />If none of these test produces at least 13.2 volts DC, replace the alternator.<br />If you get good alternator output voltages, but your battery won't hold a charge, have your battery load tested (free at auto stores or WalMart) as it is probably bad.<br />Hope that helps!<br />Mike

on Jul 13, 2011 | GMC Jimmy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Battery drains while sitting


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for drop in aprerage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at "BOTH" ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v while cranking replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor.
17. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below. Good luck and have nice day.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Jul 06, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

HoW Do I diagnose alternator problems in 1990 mercury sable


one is by disconnecting negative cable from battery for an instant with car running, if car stops running, your alternator is bad, other way is to read voltage at the battery with car running, what your reading is alternator voltage, should be between 12v and 14.9v any reading off means your alt. could be bad, but if your not shure, if you can, take the alternator out and have an autoparts tested for you they will tell you if is good or not. thanks

Jul 13, 2011 | 1990 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

Loss of power& at times stalls Fuel pressure


LOSING POWER WHEN RUNNING COULD BE LOOSE BATTERY CABLE.FAULTY ALTERNATOR.NOT CHARGING BATTERY.CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE SHOULD BE 12.6 VOLTS.WITH ENGINE RUNNING ALTERNATOR POWER OUT PUT SHOULD BE 13.5 - 14.5 VOLTS WITH ENGINE RUNNING IF NOT ALTERNATOR BAD.CHECK ALTERNATOR BATTERY FEED WIRE CHECK ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES AND CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE AND MAKE SURE DRIVE BELT NOT LOOSE.BESURE TURN OFF RADIO BEFORE REMOVING NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE TO KEEP FROM LOSING RADIO CODE.

Mar 05, 2011 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

2 Answers

How do you check an alternator or a voltage regulator on a1990 ford F250 diesel.


Here is a easy way to do it have a voltage tester on hand///multi meter put the positive to positive and negative to negative you should have engine running your voltage reading should be 12.79 up to 14.29 anything under bad alternator anything over 14.29 is bad that's over charge that usually cooks the battery.And truck not runnig test the battery same fashion your reading should be 12.79 up to 13.29 is good under battery no good.Good luck to you

Jan 31, 2011 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

I gave a friend a jumo yesterday and my car wont start. No power at all


Is your alternator and your battery the same volts if so then it's your PCM or ECM and do remember that they do need to be program

Jul 22, 2010 | 2005 Nissan Altima

2 Answers

My 1997 jeep grand cherokee tsi with a 5.2 seems to have a charging problem. the alternator is a year old and was tested twice in the last week at 2 different locations and was shown to be good. same thing...


How is the pigtail ground strap from engine block to body? Have you had engine diagnostic test done? Voltage rVOLTAGE DROP TEST
A voltage drop test is the only effective way to find excessive resistance in high amperage circuits. It's a quick and easy test that doesn't require any disassembly and will quickly show you whether or not you've got a good connection or a bad one.
To do a voltage drop test, you create a load in the circuit that's being tested. Then you use a digital volt meter (DVM) to measure the voltage drop across the live connection while it is under the load. Voltage always follows the path of least resistance, so if the circuit or connection being tested has too much resistance some of the voltage will flow through the DVM and create a voltage reading.
voltage_drop.jpg

If a connection is good, you should find little or no voltage drop and see less than 0.4 volts for most connections, and ideally less than 0.1 volts. But if you find more than a few tenths of a voltage drop across a connection, it indicates excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or repair.
CHECKING THE STARTER CIRCUIT
To check the starter circuit for excessive resistance, you need to measure the voltage drop at the battery, battery cable connections and starter while the engine is being cranked.
The first check is "available battery voltage." For the starter to crank at normal speed, the battery must be at least 75% charged (12.4 volts or higher). Low battery voltage can not only affect the starter but every other electrical system in the vehicle.
A. Set your DVM to the 20 volt scale, then connect meter positive (+) lead to battery positive (+) post (not the clamp or cable), and the meter negative (-) lead to battery negative (-) post.
B. Disable the engine so it will not start when it is cranked. (Ground the ignition coil wire, or disable the ignition circuit or fuel pump relay.) Limit cranking time to 15 seconds or less.
C. While cranking the engine, record the volt reading on the DVM. D. Next, connect your meter positive (+) lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter, and the meter negative (-) lead to the starter housing.
E. While cranking the engine, record the volt reading.
F. Compare the two voltage readings. If both are the same, there are no excessive voltage drops on the positive feed side.
G. If available voltage at the starter is not within one (1) volt of battery voltage, there is excessive voltage drop in the circuit.
The next test is for voltage drop on the positive side of the starter circuit.
A. Make sure the battery is fully charged.
B. Disable ignition.
C. Set DVM on 2 volt scale.
D. Connect meter positive (+) lead to positive (+) battery post, and the meter negative (-) lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter. While cranking the engine, record the voltage reading.
The maximum allowable voltage drop including the solenoid or external relay in the starter circuit should be 0.6 volts or less.
If you find more than a 0.6 volt drop in the starter circuit, you can isolate the bad connection by using the following voltage drop tests.
* Check the positive battery post and cable connection by measuring the voltage drop between the two while cranking the engine. Connect the meter positive lead to the battery post and the meter negative lead to the cable clamp. A good post/cable connection should have zero voltage drop.
* Check the positive battery cable by measuring the voltage drop end to end while cranking the engine. Connect the meter positive lead to the clamp on the positive battery cable, and the meter negative lead to the end of the cable at the starter. Crank the engine and note the voltage reading. A good cable should have a voltage drop of 0.2 volts or less.
* To check the starter solenoid or relay connections, connect the meter positive lead to positive battery terminal on the solenoid or relay, and the meter negative lead to the starter motor terminal. Crank the engine and note the reading. A good connection should have a voltage drop of 0.2 volts or less.
Next, you need to check the negative side of the starter circuit. To check the entire circuit, connect the meter positive lead to a clean spot on the starter motor case and the meter negative lead to the negative battery post. Crank the engine and note the reading. The voltage drop on the negative side should be 0.3 volts or less.
If the voltage drop is too high, set your DVM to the 2 volt scale and start checking each connection on the negative side to find the bad connection or cable. Use the DVM leads to check across each connection while cranking the engine as before.
Check the negative battery post/ground cable connection (should be zero voltage drop).
Check the negative ground cable from the battery to the engine (should be 0.2 volts or less).
Check between the negative battery post and starter housing (should be 0.3 volts or less).
Check between the engine block and starter housing (should be 0.10 volts or less).
CHECKING THE CHARGING CIRCUIT
To check the alternator connections on the positive side for excessive resistance:
A. Set DVM on 2 volt DC scale.
B. Connect the meter positive lead to the alternator output stud (B+ terminal).
C. Connect the meter negative lead to the positive (+) battery post.
D. With the engine running at 1,800 to 2,000 rpm with all lights and accessories on (except the rear electric defroster), check the voltage drop reading. It should be 0.5 volts or less. If higher, the connections between the alternator output stud and battery need to be cleaned. Also, look for loose connections or undersized cables.
To check the alternator connections on the negative side for excessive resistance:
A. Set DVM on 2 volt DC scale.
B. Connect meter negative lead to alternator case.
C. Connect meter positive lead to battery negative (-) post.
D. With engine running at 1,800 to 2,000 rpm with all lights and accessories on (except rear defogger), check the voltage drop reading. On the negative side, it should be 0.2 volts or less. If excessive, the connections need cleaning or the negative cable needs to be replaced. Some alternators are mounted in rubber bushings and have a separate ground strap. If so equipped, be sure to check the voltage drop across this strap, too.

egulator checked with voltmeter?

Nov 15, 2009 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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The 'No Charge' light came on. The car still starts but everything in the car is operating slow ie. blinkers, windows, blades...Charged the battery after the car stalled and it started right up...Is it the...


that is what it sound like to me the alternator if there is autozone parts stores around you call them because some of the autozone have the equipment to test it in the car and its free wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

Oct 22, 2009 | 1989 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

2 Answers

1991 Accord LX is not charging the battery properly


ITS definitely the alternator if the voltage with vehicle running is less than 14Volts+ therefore the alternator is NOT charging enough, that why the battery LIGHT came ON. Replace alternator and that will solve your problem. Sometimes when alternator goes BAd they will actually have a drain on the battery. Good Luck and Thanks for using FIX YA

Jan 23, 2009 | 1991 Honda Accord

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