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How do I re exite the alternator

I stripped the panel to check for loose ,broken wires. found none the last time the machine worked perfectly.then it was stored for 3-4 mnths now when I started her up no voltage ,also the battery ran down and is no more functional because i charged it over night and no charge was saved.ifound no voltage on exiter.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 14,585 Answers

No year, make or model. So first unplug any connects to the alternator and plug them back it. Setting causes corrosion. Also loosen the nut at the cables and retighten. Most alternators have a built in voltage regulator, this too can be checked for corrosion, but you will have to disassemble the alternator( I don't recommend it, if you haven't done it). On the newer cars the alternator is excited by the engine control module/ECM(you can check this plug also). But first check fuses.. Again pull them out and check, then plug them in. This also eliminates corrosion.

Posted on Nov 30, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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cadman000
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SOURCE: My 1988 Cadillac Deville has a new battery and

A 12V battery drain, doesn't necessarily mean a bulb is on. There could be 17,842 other reasons such as a sticking seat switch, blower motor staying on, I could go on. Need to have it tested for that,and identify the circuit with the drain on it. Then beginto search and see what is the cause. Hope this helps

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

csmock132
  • 4669 Answers

SOURCE: 1979 Ford Thunderbird alternator not charging

Are the connections really dirty at the voltage regulator? These tend to get corrosion on them and cause weird charging system issues. Also make sure the ground is good on the regulator.

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

  • 1162 Answers

SOURCE: Low voltage, the battery runs low when running the car

What is the voltage you are reading? Is it below 13.2 or so? Also have you checked the current with the engine off to see if something else is working that should not be on. I ran across this twice while working on a truck and car. A relay that was wore out keep trying to close and would drain the battery every couple of months. Sometimes you can hear them clicking or buzzing. Touching them sometimes they are warm or real hot. But that is not a sure sign it is bad. In my Trailblaze they get hot but are ok. Another thougth is the belt on your alt, correctly set to spin it at the right voltage. I have ran across this many times lately with serpatine belts.

Posted on Aug 04, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Instrument panel went dead

Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1985 Ford Bronco.....alternator will not charge

MY NA ME IS MAGICBROOM58, HAVE YOU TRIED .. I THINK IT'S ON THE FIRE WALL PASS. SIDE (CILINOID) TAKE THE RBBER OFF THE POS. AND TURN YOUR EGNITION OVER TO THE ON POS. GO BACK UNDER YOUR HOOD AND TAKE A RUBBER HANDLED WRECH?SCREW DRIVER AND CONNECT THE 2 POINTS IF IT TURNS OVER U FOUND YOUR PRBLEM

Posted on Jan 21, 2011

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