Question about 2002 Mercedes-Benz C-Class

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Is a suspension spring compressing tool needed to change lower control arm/ball joint front

See connected to steering knuckle and frame but not to suspension spring

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Usually when the spring is above and over the upper control arm you jack the center of the car up until the wheel clears the ground.
At that point the lower ball joint can be removed. Hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 30, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

michigan man
  • 3533 Answers

SOURCE: Front Suspension ball joint.

give these websites a try www.autozone.com if they have you car listed you be able to get pictures and diagrams showing you how to repair your car if you have a autozone near you there you can rent the special tools you need then take it back and get your money back and here is another website for more repair information www.alldatadiy.com

Posted on May 24, 2009

bunnydawg
  • 5158 Answers

SOURCE: (Steering Rack ,ball joint ,tie rod end and

fastest most reliable way to find out what parts are interchangable is to call your local wrecking/recycling/junk yard.... they have books that deal with that issue.

Posted on Dec 03, 2009

dj_relly999
  • 4070 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 mercedes sl320 front lower

Hi! Are you referring to the lower control arm bushings?

Posted on Sep 15, 2010

michael4wgv
  • 166 Answers

SOURCE: How to replace s500 control arms How much do they

To replace the lower control are you need to unbolt it from the subframe, airmatic strut, sway bar link and from the lower ball joint. The lower ball joint is separate from the lower control arm. The ball joint actually gets pressed into the steering knuckle. Then the lower control arm sits on top of the ball joint and gets bolted down. The lower control arms list price are about $330 each and the ball joints are around $78 each for oem mercedes parts. The total labor for both to be replaced is somewhere between 6-8 flag hours. The thrust arms are also part of the front suspension and those arms are one piece that have a ball joint as part of the arm. The lower control arm usually doesn't need to be replaced unless its damaged since the control arm bushings are available separately and are around $73 each side for the kit.

Posted on Oct 08, 2010

alicantecoli
  • 22095 Answers

SOURCE: THE CAR IS HIGHER IN

if you have a hydrolastic type self leveling system like a citreon club or a xantia then the hydraulic pressure on the nitrogen filled spheres will equalise thus causing the same height front and rear ,but i have never seen a merc this old with self leveling suspension the first case i have seen was a 95 jag with self leveling ride height so i can only give you my experiances with the citreon system as this system you have is a add on as far as i know and this add on system would be illegal in the europeon community as its not on the original certificate of homoglonation .----i would really need to see the vehicle to form any sort of opinion.Now the citreons used the spheres as the springs but if you have coil springs then this is just a gimmick self leveling that may have been installed to help boost sales but i have never seen this on these cars so what i would do is release all pressure and then measure the road height ,i have a funny feeling that the rear springs could be weak as the car is 20 yrs old so no matter how much you play with the hydraulics you will never get it right ,these old mercs like this do suffer badly with the rear bushes and all the bits on the back suspension collapsing as i have repaired no end of them with new silent block bushes and in extreme cases new road springs as well and the ones from northern europe brought to spain --well just junk motors to me as they are so corroded that to repair them i need a spanish donor vehicle in the scrap yard for parts.Try the height without the hydraulics first is what i would do to determine if the springs are weak though

Posted on Aug 29, 2011

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2 Answers

Latitude. How can I replace control arm and ball joint assembly?


Lower you can do fairly easy. Upper, a bit tougher.For the upper you will need a spring compressor.

Mar 21, 2016 | 2011 Jeep Patriot

1 Answer

I am trying to take the lower control arm on the passenger side of a 98 transport. The lower ball joint is being stubborn. I tried ball joint remover tool and not much room to work with and still dont


Lower Control Arm

Print
The lower control arm is a two-piece welded unit with a riveted ball joint. A conventional rubber bushing is used for the rear lower control arm pivot. The front lower control arm bushing is mounted vertically.


REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Some special tools are required to perform this operation including, a front hub spindle removal tool and a suitable ball joint separator tool.

WARNING Do not hammer or pry ball joint from knuckle. Failure to use recommended tools may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
See Figure 1


0900c152801dbd3a.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the control arm-to-frame mounting

  1. Raise the vehicle and suitably support by the frame allowing the control arms to hang free.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the steering gear outer tie rod from the steering knuckle.
  4. Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the control arm.
  5. Remove the front drive axle shaft nut and washer.
  6. Use a suitable front hub spindle removal tool to Push the axle splines back out of the front wheel drive shaft bearing.
  7. Remove the drive axle from the transaxle.

Drive axle joint seal protectors should be used anytime service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this could result in joint or seal failure.
  1. Place a modified inner drive joint seal protector on the drive axle joints.
  2. If equipped, remove the ABS wheel speed sensor jumper harness.
  3. Remove and discard the cotter pin, then loosen the nut from the ball stud.
  4. Remove the pinch bolt and the control arm mounting bolts, then remove the control arm from the vehicle.

Apr 20, 2013 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace lower ball joint on 1991 chevy 1500 4/4


The lower ball joint on a car is located between the steering knuckle and the lower control arm. It, along with the upper ball joint, allows the steering knuckle to pivot from left to right, turning the wheels while still allowing the front suspension to compress and absorb the impact of traveling over potholes and speed bumps.

Read more: Get a free diagnostic for your car

Aug 06, 2012 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Control arm replace


to replace control arm, you need place jackstands under the frame and lower vechicle so the weight of the vechicle rests on the jackstands and not on the control arms, then remove the front wheel remove ball joint and nut, remove steering knuckle from the lower ball joint using tool KM 507 B. remove control arm to crossmember nut and bolt, remove rear crossmember to body bolt and remove control arm.torque control arm to crossmember nut and bolt 81 ft lbs, torque ball joint to steering knuckle bolt nut 44 ft lbs.torque crossmember to body bolt to 145 ft lbs.

Feb 15, 2012 | 2001 Daewoo Nubira

1 Answer

My Front left tire is tilted inward and underneath the truck i found one of the support bars that run's across is broken off on the left side. I looked around the wheel and found that no metal was bent so...


General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

Jun 27, 2017 | 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

Need help changing balljoints


Found this article for you. Hope this helps

The ball joint is integrated into the lower control arm and cannot be replaced separately.
In many ways, that makes this project a lot less complicated (especially compared to the Taurus / Sable ;))

Before getting started, be sure to get an illustration of the front suspension - the linked Autozone Repair Guide is a good source.

Describing the scene & cast of parts:
  • The control arm connects to the frame with 1 large bolt/nut through a bushing on one end.

  • The other end has the ball joint stud sticking up that connects to the bottom end of the steering knuckle.

  • There's one more part involved: lower arm strut.
  • ** 1996-1998: This 'bar' connects to the middle of the control arm, and angles back and connects to the frame on the other.
    • 1999-2003: the end of the strut connects to the 'extension' coming off the control arm.

Removal Procedures:
Preliminaries: jack the car up, use a jack stand, chock the wheels, take the front wheel off - leave the key in the ignition so the steering wheel is unlocked.
  1. Remove the lower arm strut nut and dished washer from the end that goes through the middle of the control arm.

    NOTE: take notice of which way the dishing of the washer is pointing - you'll want to remember that for reassembly.

  2. Remove the 'pinch' bolt from the bottom of the steering knuckle that holds the ball joint stud in place - punch it all the way out of the knuckle.

  3. To make separating the control arm from the knuckle easier, you can use a small pry bar, or other handy tool to open up the 'pinch' point around the ball joint stud.

  4. I use a good length of 2x2 to leverage the control arm down - separating the ball joint stud from the knuckle.

  5. Last step - remove the control arm-to-frame bolt - and wiggle control arm off the end of the arm strut.

  6. Sit back and have a cup of coffee - 1/2 way there...

Installation:
  1. Put the end of the arm strut through the the control arm connecting point (middle for or control arm extension - model year dependent)

  2. Reattach control arm to frame - torque bolt to 85-97 ft lbs

  3. Ball joint stud to steering knuckle -

    * A second pair of hands really come in handy for this part
    * Line up the stud to the same angle as the opening in the bottom of the steering knuckle
    * I usually reach for the 2x2 to lever the control arm down far enough to get the stud lined-up and back into the steering knuckle

  4. Insert ball joint pinch bolt -

    NOTE: Don't start hammering the bolt back through the hole! There's a groove in the ball joint stud that must be lined up in the bolt hole - may have to tap the control arm up / down to get it "just right". Bolt slides in a whole lot easier then.
    Torque bolt to 46-52 ft lbs

  5. Reinstall strut washer & nut - this is where you were supposed to remember which way the washer 'dishing' was pointing!
    Torque to 85-97 ft lbs
Don't forget to put the wheel back on, and drop the van back to the ground.

Now is the time for the beer... Pricing Price references: Autozone, 1996-1998 $60, 1999-2003 $102

Aug 19, 2010 | 1999 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

I need to change the ball joint. What are the


  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Place jackstands under the frame.
  3. Lower the car slightly so the weight rests on the jackstands and not the control arm.
  4. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.

Be careful to avoid over-extending the axle shaft joints. When either end of the shaft is disconnected, over-extension of the joint could result in separation of internal components and possible joint failure. Failure to observe this can result in interior joint or boot damage and possible joint failure.
  1. If a silicone (gray) boot is used on the inboard axle joint, install boot seal protector J-33162 or equivalent. If a thermoplastic (black) boot is used, no protector is necessary.
  2. Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint castellated nut. Discard the pin.
  3. Remove the castellated nut and disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle using ball joint separator J-34505, J-29330, or equivalent.

Be sure to use on the recommended tool for separating the ball joint from the knuckle. Failure to use the proper tool may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
  1. Drill out the three rivets retaining the ball joint to the lower control arm. Use a 1 /8 in. (3mm) drill bit to make a pilot hole through the rivets. Finish drilling the head of the rivets with a 1 /2 in. (13mm) drill bit. Do NOT drill completely through the control arm.

Be careful not to damage the drive axle boot when drilling out the ball joint rivets.
  1. Unfasten the nut attaching the link to the stabilizer shaft.
  2. Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle and control arm.

To install:
  1. Position the ball joint in the control arm.
  2. Install the three ball joint bolts and nuts as shown on the instruction sheet in the ball joint kit, then tighten the bolts to specifications.
  3. Position the ball joint stud through the steering knuckle.
  4. Fasten the ball joint-to-steering knuckle nut to 41-50 ft. lbs. (56-68 Nm).
  5. Install a new cotter pin to the ball joint castellated nut.
  6. If installed, remove the boot protector.
  7. Fasten the nut attaching the stabilizer link to the stabilizer shaft. Tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm), then slightly raise the vehicle and remove the jackstands from under the suspension.
  8. Install the front tire and wheel assembly and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle, then tighten the wheel lug nuts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Mar 19, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

How to replace lower left front ball joint ?


Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

  1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Tire and wheel
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut
    • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
    • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
    • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
    • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut
    • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
    • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
    • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
  4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
  2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
    • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
  3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
    • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
    • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
    • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
    • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
    • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
    • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
    • Tire and wheel
  4. Lower the vehicle
    • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
    • Wheel center cap, if removed
  5. Check the front wheel alignment.

Nov 30, 2009 | 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada

1 Answer

Replacing front struts


Okay....here is the steps first....and then the directions on how to use the tools:

  1. Raise and properly support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the front wheel.
  3. Detach the shock absorber lower mount by removing the two bolts.
  4. Remove the retainer nut, retainer, cushion and shock absorber.
  5. Detach the cushion retainer from the shock absorber.
  6. Compress the coil spring with a commercially available spring compressor.
  7. Detach the stabilizer bar.
  8. Support the upper suspension arm and steering knuckle securely.
  9. Remove the cotter pin.
  10. Loosen and remove the nut.
  11. Using a ball joint removal tool, detach the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
  12. Loosen the suspension arm set bolt.
  13. Remove the suspension arm set bolt nut.
  14. Remove the nut from the strut bar front set bolt.
  15. Pull out both set bolts.
  16. Remove the lower suspension arm and coil spring. To install:
  17. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following torque specifications:
    1. Strut bar front set bolt: 221 ft. lbs. (300 Nm)
    2. Lower suspension arm set bolt: 148 ft. lbs. (200 Nm)
    3. Lower ball joint nut: 80 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
    4. Lug nuts: 83 ft. lbs. (110 Nm).

May 13, 2009 | 1998 Toyota Tacoma

1 Answer

I am trying to get the wheel assembly apart to change the front bearings on a 1996 mercury villiger


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

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Item Part Number Description 1 — Cotter Pin 2 — Nut Retainer 3 1131 Insulator 4 3B477 Front Axle Wheel Hub Retainer 5 1195 Front Wheel Outer Bearing Retainer Washer 6 1104 Wheel Hub 7 1107 Lug Bolt 8 3K050 Snap Ring 9 3123 Front Wheel Bearing 10 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield 11 3130 Front Wheel Knuckle

Wheel Hub, Wheel Knuckle and Wheel Bearing SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A
Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel (1007) and tire assembly.
  3. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the front brake hose (2078).

    Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) and suspend it with mechanic's wire out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 for the removal procedure.
  4. Remove the front disc brake rotor (1125).
  5. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
  6. Remove the nut retainer and insulator.
  7. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) and the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195).




  8. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050).
  9. Loosen the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut until it contacts the front wheel driveshaft joint.


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  10. Strike the front wheel knuckle with a hammer while pulling down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) until the front suspension lower arm ball joint separates from the front wheel knuckle.




  11. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut.




  12. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint from the front wheel knuckle.
  13. Remove and discard the cotter pin.




  14. Remove the tie rod end nut.




  15. Use Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A to separate the tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle.




  16. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor bolt.




  17. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts.




  18. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  19. Remove the front shock absorber (18124) from the front wheel knuckle.
  20. Use 2-Jaw Puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent, to separate the front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B436) from the front wheel knuckle.
  21. Remove the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly from the vehicle.
  22. If necessary, match mark and remove the steering stop bolt and steering stop bolt jam nut from the front wheel knuckle.




Installation
  1. Position the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly on the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
  1. Install the front wheel knuckle into the front shock absorber.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts. Tighten the front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts to 113-123 Nm (83-91 lb-ft).

Apr 10, 2009 | 1996 Mercury Villager

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