Question about 2004 Oldsmobile Alero
I put a new water pump on my 2004 oldsmobile alero and it is making a bad squealing noise.at first it was running fine but now is trying to over heat and i dont think the thermostat is opening because both the hoses to and from radiator are real hard when car is running
Not good. Pull the serpentine belt and try to spin the water pump by hand.If it won't turn, it's dead, replace it and the thermostat and try again. If it spins freely, something else is causing the belt to slip. Either the tensioner is worn out and needs replaced, or something else is binding the belt up. Not that difficult to figure out.
These cars are notorious for holding air in the cooling system. When not run, the air usually lives in the heater core. If you keep an eye on the coolant level and don't have any leaks, the air will eventually burp itself out if you top up the coolant tank when it gets low.
Posted on Nov 30, 2014
Testimonial: "ok will try,but this will make the 2nd water pump ive put on in two days"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1998 aurora
I have had this problem with my 98 aurora and have replaced all the same components. Temp gauge routinely shows 200 on highway (Fine) but in the city in stop and go will get to around 245. I installed a switch to manually turn on the cooling fans by connecting the ground to pin 86 in the relay for the fan(s). Otherwise the fans will not turn on to 245. This fix works but would like to know an actual solution.
Posted on Jul 12, 2008
SOURCE: i have a 2000 oldsmobil
I would say you have an air lock in the cooling system and it needs to be bled. Your water pump is cavitating, meaning an air bubble developes around the water pump impellars, an can't circulate the water.
Posted on Nov 19, 2008
I have a 2000 Intrigue that had the same overheating problem only when it gets below 0 degrees. I read many forums on this matter and it only got me more confused. It had thumping in the heater hose lines when it got hot. So here is what I did to cure the problem....I first installed a new thermostat that I purchased from NAPA Auto-$43. I noticed that it has a small one way valve built into the housing. I took a 1/8 inch drill bit and drilled down through the hole to make it a 2 way hole so coolant could get through (and air could escape when bleeding the system). I then took off the purge tank and flushed it out with hot water to get all of the crud out of it. When I reinstalled all of the hoses and thermostat, I coated the gasket seal and inside the hoses with high temp RTV. I also took off those wierd squeeze clamps and used the screw type hose clamps. I suspected that it was drawing air into the system when it cooled down and with the RTV and new clamps, that problem was eliminated! I reinstalled the surge tank and filled with 50/50 mixture of Dex Cool, then started the engine. I opened the bleeder valve on the top right corner of the radiator and left it open until a good steady stream of antifreeze came out. I kept putting antifreeze into the surge tank until it came up to the full cold mark. Then I left the pressure cap off and drove the car for about 10 miles at normal speed. During this time I had the heater running on high. When I stopped the car I added enough antifreeze to bring the surge tank level to full hot and put the pressure cap on. I then drove it for another 10 miles or so and checked the level, right on the full hot line. By the way, I also put on a new pressure cap. For $7 it was worth the money. I drove the car around for about another hour and the temp gauge only got up to a little over 1/4! Oh, I also put a new serpentine belt, just because the old one had 60,000 miles on it. So for $43 (new thermostat), $7 (new pressure cap), $12 (more Dex Cool), $24 (new serpentine belt), and $20 (new clamps, High Heat RTV, etc) the problem is fixed!! The reason I drilled out the hole in the thermostat housing was for air to escape when bleeding the system. This was the one and only time I have had problems with overheating, just in real cold temps, and I hope it never comes back! So for a little over $100 (MUCH less than a garage would charge!), you can do the same thing with a few tools.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
SOURCE: my 2004 alero will not start
my car does the same thing. turn the key halfway if security light is flashing just wait about 10 min until it is solid then turn the key off and then it should start right up i have to do this about once a week
Posted on Jul 02, 2010
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